ELHO Freestyle *Summer Collection 25

ELHO FREESTYLE by DONALD SCHNEIDER
*Where Mountain Meets Urban Style

written SARAH ARENDTS

Under the theme Style Your Own Experience, ELHO Freestyle launched its highly anticipated Summer Collection. Merging outdoor performance with avant-garde design and bio-based materials, this new line specifically appeals to the style-conscious younger generation.

Donald Schneider, Creative Director of ELHO Freestyle, explained the concept in an exclusive interview with LE MILE Magazine: “Even though we are a 75-year-old heritage brand, we relaunched with a totally innovative new look to excite the new generation. Our products are designed for mountain performance yet suitable for everyday urban style. You can freely combine them—whether you're wearing hiking boots, high heels, sneakers, or flip-flops.”

ELHO Streetwear
Style Your Own Experience
Summer 2025 Collection

ELHO Streetwear
Style Your Own Experience
Summer 2025 Collection

Athlete-Inspired Innovation with Andri Ragettli

Freestyle Ski champion and social media sensation Andri Ragettli played an essential role in shaping this collection. Known for his daring stunts and distinctive style, Ragettli embodies the ELHO Freestyle spirit. According to Donald Schneider, "From our first conversation, it was clear how deeply Andri cares not only about his performance but also his style and appearance. He found that no existing outdoor brand truly catered to his aesthetic, even resorting to custom-made performance pants by a tailor."

This detailed feedback became instrumental in shaping ELHO’s products. For instance, Ragettli emphasized practical considerations like relocating ankle zippers to the outside of pants to withstand the wear and tear from high-impact freestyle skiing tricks. Andri Ragettli's hands-on involvement ensures each garment meets the rigorous demands of professional sports and urban fashion. The athlete rigorously tests each piece, wearing them during intense training and also during travel and city life, underscoring the collection’s versatility.

An Iconic Artistic Collaboration: Jean-Michel Basquiat

An extraordinary highlight of ELHO’s 2025 summer collection is the collaboration featuring the legendary artist Jean-Michel Basquiat. Renowned for his powerful, raw artistic expression, Basquiat’s iconic artworks have been translated into compelling black-and-white graphic prints on performance bomber jackets and shell pants. Donald Schneider reflects on the personal connection and inspiration behind the collaboration: “I knew Jean-Michel personally during my years in New York. His art remains incredibly impactful and resonates deeply with today's youth, who have rediscovered his pioneering spirit. His bold style perfectly complements our fusion of streetwear sensibility and outdoor functionality.”

The capsule includes standout pieces such as the Echo Bomber Jacket, distinguished by its bold black-and-white Basquiat print, creating statement looks that transition seamlessly from ski slopes to urban adventures.

Donald Schneider
Creative Director at ELHO Streetwear
seen by Henrik Nielsen

“Just look at how sports embraced urban style and innovative design—and it turned out to be their biggest revolution. We are convinced that this has to happen with outdoor wear too.”

Donald Schneider speaks with Sarah Arendts
for LE MILE .DIGITAL - Spring 2025

ELHO Streetwear
Style Your Own Experience
Summer 2025 Collection

ELHO Streetwear
Style Your Own Experience
Summer 2025 Collection

Sustainable Style: Durability Meets Ethical Fashion

Sustainability remains central to ELHO Freestyle’s design ethos. Rejecting fast fashion, the collection emphasizes longevity, durability, and the use of bio-based materials. Each piece, such as the ultralight Valley bomber jacket made from biobased nylon or the Zephir Pants inspired by traditional Japanese martial arts, is meticulously crafted from robust, eco-friendly materials sourced responsibly. These garments promise lasting quality, comfort and represent a conscious commitment to resource preservation.

The Return of an Iconic Heritage Brand

Donald Schneider, the visionary behind ELHO Freestyle's relaunch, brings an illustrious career in fashion innovation, previously serving as Art Director at French Vogue and pioneering global designer collaborations, notably Karl Lagerfeld x H&M. Schneider sees enormous potential in redefining outdoor apparel, which traditionally has struggled to embrace innovative style and urban aesthetics. “Our goal with ELHO Freestyle is clear: to reclaim our position as a pioneering brand,” Schneider explains. “Historically, ELHO was always ahead of its competitors, breaking conventional boundaries. Today, our ambition remains the same. We observe how sportswear has revolutionized urban style; now, it's time for outdoor apparel to undergo the same transformation. This is precisely the vision behind our current collection.”

ELHO Streetwear
Style Your Own Experience
Summer 2025 Collection

The market response has already been overwhelmingly positive, resonating especially with global tastemakers in cities like Seoul, Berlin, Zurich, and Paris. Influencers, stylists, musicians, and athletes alike have embraced the brand’s new direction, affirming its relevance and appeal. The ELHO Freestyle Summer Collection 2025 is available online!

discover more www.ELHOfreestyle.com

all visuals (c) ELHO Freestyle

Paris Fashion Week AW25

THE FABRIC OF NOW
*Paris Fashion Week 2025 Highlights

written ALBAN E. SMAJLI

Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025-2026 unfolded as an encoded manifesto, where fabric became language and silhouettes spoke in tongues. Designers unearthed buried histories, reconstructing past blueprints into a future without borders.

The runway was an evolving stage—DIOR dismantled gender constructs, LOUIS VUITTON mapped the velocity of movement, VALENTINO engineered intimacy as spectacle. Vans infiltrated Valentino, threading rebellion through the needle of luxury. This was a transmission. CHLOÉ reactivated an artifact, the Paddington bag, as an emblem of memory in motion. ZIMMERMANN stretched the seams between myth and reality. Vans infiltrated Valentino, threading rebellion through the needle of luxury.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO Show

VALENTINO Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Alessandro Michele’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection for VALENTINO continued his redefinition of the house’s identity, expanding on the foundations set in his debut. The show, titled Le Méta-Théâtre Des Intimités, transformed the runway into a dystopian, Lynchian space, evoking the surreal ambiance of a public restroom—an environment stripped of traditional constructs, where personal and collective identities dissolve.

Structured ‘70s-inspired suits, sculptural coats, and richly embellished dresses unfolded in deep VALENTINO red, ivory, and ink black, carrying an almost ritualistic quality. The collaboration with VANS introduced a new dimension, reworking the classic Authentic sneaker in bold checkerboard patterns and an “I Love My Vans” motif intertwined with VALENTINO’s logo. Lace veils layered over raw-edged tailoring, gloves extended beyond the elbow, and sculptural accessories punctuated the silhouettes with a sense of quiet subversion. Michele’s vision explored intimacy as a performative space, where identity is neither fixed nor singular but constantly in flux, layered like fabric, revealing and concealing with each movement.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO x VANS

Paris Fashion Week FW25
DIOR Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
DIOR Show

DIOR Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Maria Grazia Chiuri's Fall 2025 collection for DIOR was a sartorial journey through time, drawing inspiration from Virginia Woolf's "Orlando" to blur the lines between masculinity and femininity. The runway transformed into a theatrical spectacle, with models navigating a set adorned with mechanical pterodactyls and looming icebergs, evoking a sense of timelessness and evolution.

Chiuri revisited the archives, paying homage to predecessors like Gianfranco Ferré and John Galliano. The reimagined white shirt, a nod to Ferré's architectural approach, became a canvas for exploration, featuring detachable ruffled collars reminiscent of Elizabethan ruffs, symbolizing the fluidity of identity. The collection's palette transitioned from somber blacks to ethereal whites, mirroring the narrative of transformation. Lace gowns juxtaposed with military-inspired coats underscored the harmonious blend of strength and delicacy. The revival of the "J'adore Dior" T-shirt, an emblem of Galliano's era, was recontextualized, bridging past and present. Chiuri's exploration of gender-bending silhouettes and the interplay of historical motifs with contemporary aesthetics reaffirmed Dior's commitment to innovation while honoring its rich legacy.

LOUIS VUITTON Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Nicolas Ghesquière's vision for LOUIS VUITTON's Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection was a love letter to the golden age of train travel, encapsulating the romance and anticipation of journeys. Staged at the historic Gare du Nord, the show immersed attendees in the bustling ambiance of a Parisian train station, complete with the rhythmic hum of Kraftwerk's "Trans-Europe Express."

Ghesquière presented an eclectic array of silhouettes, from voluminous midi skirts paired with heavyweight knit vests to pinstriped boiler suits accented with vivid scarves. The accessories were a testament to LOUIS VUITTON's legacy in travel, with models clutching steamer-inspired handbags and oversized duffel totes, reminiscent of classic luggage pieces.

The collaboration with set designer Es Devlin resulted in a runway that mirrored the transient nature of travel, with models embodying characters from various walks of life, each telling their own story. This new collection celebrates the art of travel, highlighting the brand’s connection to movement, heritage, and design, with historical elements woven into a contemporary vision that unfolds as a continuous narrative.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
LOUIS VUITTON Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
LOUIS VUITTON Show

CHLOÉ Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Under the creative direction of Chemena Kamali, CHLOÉ's Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection was an ode to the multifaceted nature of femininity, exploring the interplay between strength and softness. Kamali studied the archives, reviving the iconic Paddington bag, a beloved accessory from the early 2000s, now reimagined for the modern woman.

The runway showcased a harmonious blend of opulence and practicality, with lavish, embellished dresses juxtaposed against pared-down, utilitarian pieces. Broad logo belts cinched sheer, low-rise maxi skirts, adding a touch of structure to the ethereal ensembles. Ballet flats, poised to become the season's must-have, offered an effortlessly chic touch, embodying the brand's signature blend of elegance and ease. Kamali's exploration of plurality and the influences that shape women's identities resulted in a collection that felt very personal and universally relatable, resonating with women across generations.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
CHLOÉ Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
CHLOÉ Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
CHLOÉ Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
ZIMMERMANN Show

ZIMMERMANN Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Nicky Zimmermann’s Fall 2025 collection, Hypnotic, built a world where storytelling unfolded in fabric, silhouette, movement. Inspired by the haunting atmosphere of Picnic at Hanging Rock on its 50th anniversary, the collection absorbed the film’s lingering sense of mystery without directly referencing its costumes. Instead, elements from the narrative were distilled into textures, structures, and motifs that shaped each look with quiet precision.

Lace-trimmed lingerie dresses, pinstripe suits, and structured wool coats introduced a balance of softness and strength, while hidden details—maps of Mt. Macedon printed on silk, hand-drawn Valentine’s Day cards stitched between layers of chiffon—wove subtle fragments of the story into the collection. The use of Mongolian shearling, leather-wrapped boots, and braided trims reinforced a tactile complexity, adding depth to the compositions without overpowering their fluidity. A shift in palette from soft, sunlit hues to deep moss greens and midnight blues signaled an evolving mood, with textures becoming richer and silhouettes taking on a more dramatic form.

Polished stone jewelry and an almond-shaped suede bag introduced grounding elements to the collection, serving as counterpoints to the weightlessness of chiffon and the elongation of sleeves. ZIMMERMANN shaped Hypnotic with an attention to atmosphere, allowing the garments to move between clarity and enigma.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
ZIMMERMANN Show

Signature Clo *Singular Vision

SIGNATURE CLO
*A Language of Form and Presence

written MONICA DE LUNA

Signature Clo approaches design as an architectural discipline, where fabric becomes structure and movement shapes identity. Each piece is engineered with precision, using weight and proportion to define space. Cloth is a framework for expression.

The oversized hoodie establishes form through deliberate volume, reinforcing its presence with carefully weighted seams. The heavyweight tee interacts with the body's posture, shaping an interplay between material and wearer. Garments evolve with every movement, recording the rhythm of daily life.

Signature Clo
Sweater

Signature Clo
Ego Death Hoodie

Each stitch follows a calculated design process. Textures react to touch, fibers adjust to wear, and silhouettes refine themselves over time. This approach transforms fabric into an evolving canvas of lived experience. Signature Clo operates with an acute awareness of proportion. Every cut, every seam carries intent. Garments are designed for wear and interaction. They align with posture, adjust to the body's stance, and move with fluidity. The structured hoodie is crafted with reinforced stitching to maintain its sculptural integrity. Fabric is selected based on density and responsiveness, ensuring each piece carries presence. Textile composition is studied in detail—weight and weave dictate drape, while seam placement controls balance.

These garments are built for longevity. Over time, fibers mold to the wearer, creating a distinct relationship between material and motion. The more they are worn, the more they adapt, deepening their connection with the individual. Signature Clo sources premium materials that support function and form. Heavy cotton blends provide structure, allowing garments to hold their intended shape. Tactile surfaces invite interaction, shifting with light and movement. Fabric selection is integral to the design philosophy. The oversized hoodie is developed with dense textiles that offer resistance while maintaining comfort.

The heavyweight tee is composed of finely woven fibers that respond to air and motion. Every material is chosen for its ability to retain its silhouette while adapting to daily use. This approach ensures that garments remain visually and physically substantial. Layers of texture enhance depth, while expertly placed stitching reinforces each seam. The result is a collection that stands independently, yet integrates seamlessly into the wearer’s experience.

Signature Clo emphasizes the tactile nature of design. Fabric reacts to movement, adjusting with subtle shifts in motion. Textures hold memory, shaping themselves through repeated interaction. The oversized hoodie anchors itself through measured weight distribution.

Seams follow natural lines of motion, allowing unrestricted movement while maintaining a structured profile. The heavyweight tee extends outward, balancing volume with precision. Each piece carries an embedded physicality—designed to be experienced and observed.

Signature Clo
Hoodie

Signature Clo
T-Shirt

Signature Clo constructs garments that are intentional and evolving. Light moves across their surfaces, emphasizing their depth and dimension. Textiles absorb and reflect their environment, interacting with space in tangible ways. The collection exists at the intersection of design and experience. Silhouettes expand and contract with wear, becoming an extension of movement. Each garment is a study in proportion, a composition of fabric and form designed to endure. Signature Clo refines the language of streetwear, sculpting a vision where structure defines presence, and fabric carries identity.

Signature Clo: The Art of Constructed Motion.

discover more www.signature-essentials.com

all visuals (c) Signature

Milan Fashion Week AW25

MILAN AW25
*Runways Framed, Streets Unfiltered

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

In times where society’s downturns are increasingly commonplace, fashion's mission is to exude a profound sense of societal relevance that can create both desire and intent: a purpose to set alight its deep connotation beyond mere conventions.

The Milan shows have proven to stick to a traditional code of conduct: a free of fuss aesthetic, teamed with pared-back, minimalist lines prevail over its British and American counterparts, where everything is blown to the max. The Milan shows, after all, wholly reflect the DNA of century-old traditions, and it's no surprise that the people of the city share that very sentiment. Gucci went back to its roots and archive for Fall 2025, as the house's founder Sabato De Sarno announced his departure earlier in February. This season, the lineup featured a lean towards a new colourway (dark, forest green) and a shift from its red (rosso ancora, as the house used to name it), bringing a newfound sense of femininity and glamour to the apparel.

MFW FW25
during PRADA

MFW FW25

MFW FW25
ICEBERG Show

MFW FW25
during ETRO

MFW FW25
during VIVETTA

Now, speaking of Iceberg, the brand seemed to be eschewing all manners of fuss and grounding to a linear approach and take of tailoring: tones are subdued, maxi logos are a far cry from the visual language and the pared-back appeal seems to be winning the race. On similar territory, Fendi celebrated its centenary this Fall with a collection that harked back to Silvia Venturini Fendi's memories and Karl: the collection renewed its affection for the house's classics, bringing forth a slew of timeless pieces that had sleek silhouettes, embellished details and a sinuous touch overall. Jil Sander, Prada, Moschino and Moschino offered levity and a dash of irreverence to the modern woman. Diesel offered tons of playfulness while Etro, D&G's runway had upbeat tempo ('cool girls', strutted both inside and outside the venue), and Vivetta continued its design path.

MFW FW25
during DIESEL

MFW FW25
during GUCCI

MFW FW25
during MOSCHINO

MFW FW25
during DOLCE & GABBANA

MFW FW25

all visuals

production  ONE.FASHION.AGENCY
art-director Mariia Nikiforova 
project manager Viacheslav Nikiforov
seen by Vitalii Verkhoturov

MFW - WHITE Milano 2025

WHITE Milano 2025
*Fashion’s New Axis

written Alban E. Smajli

Milan, the beating heart of fashion, witnessed another electrifying edition of WHITE MILANO. A meticulously curated showcase of designers and brands set the tone for the future of luxury.

The event’s selection of 300 brands established a new narrative, presenting collections with a clear vision of craftsmanship, innovation, and cultural resonance. The Secret Rooms introduced designers such as YID’PHROGMA from China, MAZ Manuela ALVAREZ from Colombia, and RENÈ from Denmark. Their work projected an evolution in contemporary aesthetics, fusing heritage with modern design language.

OH CARLA
at WHITE MILANO 2025

RENÈ
at WHITE MILANO 2025

WHITE MILANO’s CIRCLE project expanded its global influence with a formalized partnership with Retail Leader Circle, securing a strategic presence in Riyadh. Retail activations at WESTERLY and additional pop-ups across Saudi Arabia, the UAE, and Qatar strengthened its role as a dynamic force in international fashion. A growing network of buyers, including representatives from Estnation in Japan and Le Bon Marché in France, engaged with collections that embodied a defined luxury perspective. Media engagement surged, solidifying WHITE MILANO as an essential platform for industry dialogue.

Throughout the event, industry leaders and cultural pioneers gathered for discussions, presentations, and collaborations. A roundtable with key European buyers examined shifts in the retail landscape. A delegation of Indigenous Canadian designers, curated by Indigenous Fashion Arts, explored the interplay of sustainability and identity within fashion. Istituto Marangoni’s digital showroom extended the conversation, integrating physical collections with digital advancements.

The momentum carried into the evening. A dinner at Caruso Nuovo Bistrot with Massimiliano Bizzi and Brenda Bellei Bizzi immersed guests in an atmosphere of exchange and creative discourse. An intimate setting fostered new perspectives, deepening connections between design, business, and artistic vision.

WHITE MILANO constructs the framework of modern luxury. With each edition, the event refines its direction, reinforcing its role in shaping the industry’s trajectory. The upcoming season signals further evolution, with a continued focus on innovation and a sharp curatorial approach to the brands that define its identity.

WHITE MILANO 2025

CAROLXOTT
at WHITE MILANO 2025

WHITE MILANO is a cultural platform where fashion, music, and business intersect. With a diverse program of events, WHITE solidifies its role in shaping industry trends and future outlooks. The 2025 edition reflected fashion’s evolving landscape, driving creativity, innovation but also sustainability while influencing the industry’s direction.

credit all images
(c) WHITE MIlano, 2025 and Brands

Valentino *Pavillon des Folies

VALENTINO SS25
*Theatrum Mundi

written SARAH ARENDTS

Valentino SS25 moves beyond the realm of fashion, unfolding as a staged delirium where beauty performs in its purest form.

Alessandro Michele constructs a world where nothing is static, garments exist in flux, and identity bends toward theatrical excess. The collection channels movement—not as a metaphor, but as a tangible force. Fashion, in its essence, is a construction. Here, it is also a deconstruction, an invitation, a distortion.

Valentino
SS25 Campaign Pavillon des Folies

Each campaign frame is a performance, captured through Glen Luchford’s lens. Fabric rustles, lace distorts, silk drapes and clings with the inevitability of a script already written. The past lingers in embroidered surfaces, but the gesture is present, immediate. Rooms, once confined, stretch into liminal stages where models become vessels of transformation.

The cast moves through this imagined theater with the quiet tension of something unscripted. Jonathan Kaye’s styling sharpens the characters: punctuated silhouettes, lace gloved hands, the weight of a brocade, the sharp punctuation of a heel bow-tied in velvet.

The maison’s codes thread through the composition, but the script shifts. The stage is the Pavillon des Folies, a place without fixed identity, where beauty acts as a force, not an object. Alessandro Michele directs, but the narrative unfolds as an open-ended provocation.

Valentino
SS25 Campaign Pavillon des Folies

Louis Vuitton *LV BIKER

LV BIKER
*New Signature in Soft Power

written MONICA DE LUNA

A rebellion in leather. A manifesto in motion. The LV BIKER bag, unveiled in Louis Vuitton’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection, rewrites the language of luxury accessories. Designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, this latest signature piece channels the paradox of soft power—a force both undeniable and fluid, strength disguised in elegance.

The LV BIKER is a study in movement and form. Inspired by the silhouette of a classic biker jacket, its foldable construction reflects Louis Vuitton’s heritage of craftsmanship, shaping a new expression in design. With its supple structure and precise detailing, this bag embodies a distinct presence.

LOUIS VUITTON
Making Of

LOUIS VUITTON
LV BIKER Bag SS25 Collection

Introducing Pixel lambskin leather, an innovation in texture and tone. A meticulous layering process deepens the grain, giving the bag a two-toned effect that shifts under the light—an illusion of depth, a whisper of movement. Available in a spectrum of urban hues, from Pixel Noir to Dark Denim, Pixel Grège to Nano Noir, each variation speaks in its own frequency.

The LV BIKER thrives in transition. A dynamic interplay of straps and handles allows for multiple identities—worn as a clutch, draped over the elbow, slung across the body. A shape-shifting companion that adapts to the rhythms of the wearer, asserting itself in every iteration.

Heritage meets future. Trunk-making savoir-faire collides with contemporary utility. The LV BIKER bag, available in stores from February 22, 2025, challenges convention and refines rebellion. Three sizes. Infinite ways to wear.

LOUIS VUITTON
LV BIKER Bag SS25 Collection

LOUIS VUITTON
Runway

Louis Vuitton *Tambour Alchemize

Louis Vuitton Tambour
*Time Forged in Stone

written AMANDA MORTENSON

Louis Vuitton orchestrates time. The Tambour High End collection—now expanded with two audacious new iterations—embodies the synthesis of engineering and artistry. This is material mastery, savoir-faire expressed through horology.

Two watches. Two philosophies. A 40mm yellow-gold Tambour with a dial sculpted from Brazilian onyx, anchored in a bezel of saffron sapphires. A platinum Tambour, gradient-lit with rubies and sapphires, an explosion of calibrated color that reshapes the idea of the spectrum. Both operate in extreme limitation—only 30 and 50 pieces respectively. Their creation follows a meticulous process that dictates its own rarity.

Louis Vuitton
Tambour High-End Rainbow Session

For the first time, the Tambour embraces hard stone, elevating Brazilian onyx to an object of precision. Twelve individual segments form the dial’s minute ring—each piece drilled, polished, and adjusted under a near-zero margin for error. A slip, a scratch, a miscalculation? Start over. The luminous baguette-cut saffron sapphires carry a coded language, drawn from a 1911 Louis Vuitton trunk in Vuittonite yellow. Timekeeping here manifests as storytelling.

Platinum resists. It refuses to be easily shaped, demanding 30% more machining time than its gold counterpart. The result: a case of extreme density and weight, its brushed and polished surfaces absorbing and refracting light. Encircling it, a spectrum of 59 meticulously sourced corundum gemstones, their color transition seamless—no jarring breaks, no discord. From the high-energy fuchsia rubies of Mozambique to the deep greens and violets of Sri Lanka, this is color as movement, gradient as narrative. Even the caseback whispers exclusivity—a single 1.6mm saffron sapphire, a hidden marker of the watch’s platinum identity.

Within both pieces beats the Calibre LFT023—the first proprietary three-hand movement of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Aan exhibition of savoir-faire: Geneva Chronometric Observatory-certified accuracy (-4/+6 seconds per day), a 22K rose gold micro-rotor carved with the Louis Vuitton monogram, a barrel adorned with the maison’s signature flower motif. 50-hour power reserve. 31 colorless sapphires embedded for reduced friction. Precision and poetry, without compromise.

Louis Vuitton
Tambour High-End YG ONYX Front

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour High End collection manifests as an expression of material truth. Time, sculpted in precious stones and metals, takes on permanence. 30 yellow gold. 50 platinum. The countdown has already begun.

McQueen SS25 Campaign

McQueen SS25
*The Banshee's Unrelenting Cry

written MONICA DE LUNA

Llansteffan Castle, weathered and elemental, carries the weight of centuries. The McQueen Spring/Summer 2025 campaign unfolds within its walls, where shadows and movement intertwine.

Directed and shot by Glen Luchford, the imagery captures an unsettling presence, raw and electric. Seán McGirr channels the banshee, an ancient force woven into Irish folklore. A figure neither seen nor ignored, she moves with intent, her voice uncontained.

McQueen SS25 Ad Campaign
seen by GLEN LUCHFORD
creative directed SEÁN McGIRR

“She embodies a sense of strident self-expression that resonates now,”

Seán McGirr

Fabric carries the weight of mythology. Tailoring shifts its structure, fabric unravels—cobweb lace, pleated chiffon, silk creponne, and shredded silk organza. Silvered grey and ivory set the tone, punctuated by bursts of yellow and orange. Accessories manifest as relics; jewelry holds the presence of something once whispered and now declared.

Movement defines the collection. Figures navigate castle corridors and windswept shores, their silhouettes precise, their presence unwavering. Meshach Henry directs each motion with a purpose that transcends choreography. Hair carries the air’s charge, makeup enhances the stark clarity of the vision—Gary Gill and Daniel Sallstrom sculpt forms that resist containment.

Sound shapes the atmosphere. The post-punk resonance of Heartworms’ Consistent Dedication cuts through the visual landscape, its synths and vocals channeling something instinctual. The score becomes an extension of the campaign’s pulse, threading itself through each frame.

McQueen SS25 moves with force. The banshee does not linger. She calls forward.

Porsche Design x Orlando Bloom

Orlando Bloom Joins Porsche Design
*The Art of Precision

written MONICA DE LUNA

A lineage of engineering distilled into the hum of an engine, the balance of a curve, the whisper of a second hand sweeping across a dial.

Orlando Bloom steps in as an ambassador, a presence that reflects precision, heritage, and an unapologetic pursuit of excellence. Porsche Design unveils its latest collaboration, embodying its core values in design and craftsmanship. Orlando Bloom becomes a part of this legacy. The campaign unfolds in a palette of obsidian black and sleek titanium, a nod to the Chronograph 1 – All Black Numbered Edition, an evolution of the 1972 design.

Porsche Design
Orlando Bloom, Brand Ambassador

Bloom, a Porsche devotee, moves with intention. "Porsche is a lifestyle," he reflects. "It’s innovation meeting performance, meeting legacy."

The Porsche Design P'8478, first released in 1978, features interchangeable lenses, featherweight titanium, and precision-cut curves. It adapts effortlessly to changing conditions.

"Style is personal," Bloom says. "Authenticity is everything." His choices reflect a commitment to timeless design. Accessories are essential elements of his wardrobe, particularly when they merge function and elegance. Watches and eyewear are more than complements; they shape the way one interacts with the world. The Chronograph 1 – All Black Numbered Edition is at the heart of this campaign. A timepiece that encapsulates decades of design mastery. Conceived in 1972 and modernized in 2022, it bridges generations of engineering. Its monochromatic aesthetic is a study in focus and precision. Handmade in Solothurn, Switzerland, it stands as a testament to Porsche’s seamless fusion of Swiss craftsmanship and automotive ingenuity.

Beyond timepieces, the collaboration highlights Porsche Design’s eyewear. The P'8478 model, a pioneer of modular lenses, remains an icon. Designed by F. A. Porsche, its quick-release mechanism and durable titanium frame provide adaptability and refinement. A vision crafted for the dynamic.

For Bloom, this partnership aligns with his appreciation for innovation and legacy. As a long-time Porsche enthusiast, his connection to the brand extends beyond admiration. It’s a shared understanding of how aesthetics, function, and history converge. Stefan Buescher, CEO of Porsche Lifestyle Group, affirms this synergy: "Orlando Bloom embodies our values of authenticity, style, and a passion for perfection. His global presence strengthens Porsche Design’s resonance with an audience that values excellence."

Porsche Design

Porsche Design

Porsche Design remains committed to timeless innovation, and Bloom steps into this world as an extension of that ethos. A fusion of design and purpose, movement and precision. The Chronograph 1 is worn because it functions with mastery. The sunglasses because they are an optical evolution. This is Porsche Design—where every detail serves a greater vision.

HOKA New Speed Loafer 2025

HOKA Speed Loafer
*A Study in Motion

written MONICA DE LUNA

A design distilled to its purest form, cut to the rhythm of those who move with intention.

HOKA shifts the landscape once again. The Speed Loafer emerges as a sharp statement in movement, fusing a forward-thinking silhouette with the unmistakable energy of the brand’s signature engineering.

HOKA
Speak Loafer

Footwear, in its truest essence, is architecture in motion. The Speed Loafer manifests this ideology through sculpted contours and an unwavering focus on function. Precision-stacked layers of EVA foam deliver a sensation that pulses between structure and fluidity. The silhouette, clean yet assertive, lands with the clarity of a blueprint drawn for kinetic expression.

The upper—a seamless convergence of form and breathability—eliminates excess. A single stroke of engineered materials, composed to contour. Slip-in ease translates to uninterrupted motion, making the transition between states effortless.

HOKA’s DNA hums beneath the surface. The Speed Loafer carves out space for movement, where stability does not compromise agility. The midsole, sculpted for response, amplifies each step with a balance that speaks to both precision and instinct. Every element, from the minimalistic structure to the considered weight distribution, channels a philosophy of forward propulsion.

This release reframes versatility through a sharper lens. Urban rhythm or off-grid escapism, the Speed Loafer adapts to the moment without hesitation. A visual language that aligns with an audience attuned to dynamic design, it defies expectations without the need for embellishment.

---

ALSO READ

From Form to Function with On *The Body Is Art Training Campaign

HOKA’s latest drop extends an invitation—not just to wear, but to move. The Speed Loafer is now available through selected retailers and online, existing at the intersection of motion and intent.

step inside at hoka.com

RIMOWA and Rick Owens

PATINA + POWER
*RIMOWA x Rick Owens Collaboration

written AMANDA MORTENSON

Travel has a new edge. The RIMOWA x Rick Owens collaboration introduces a suitcase that reshapes the language of movement.

The Original Cabin Bronze emerges from the hands of two visionaries, each committed to pushing the limits of material and meaning. At its core, the collaboration fractures the traditional notions of luxury. Rick Owens’s unmistakable aesthetic—dark, unapologetic, and raw—melds with RIMOWA’s century-long mastery of aluminium craftsmanship. The bronzed exterior, achieved through a meticulous pigment process, becomes a surface alive with its own imperfections and evolution.

RIMOWA x RICK OWENS
Michèle Lamy seen by Matteo Carcelli

“I wanted the outside finish to recall a bronze from Giacometti or Serra, and I wanted the interior to feel like the touch of a black leather glove.”

Rick Owens

Inside, Owens alters the language of travel interiors. The fully leather-lined design—a first for RIMOWA—invitates to engage with texture. The aluminium shell merges seamlessly with Rick Owens’s leather, creating a unified tactile experience. Flex Dividers, reimagined in this material, showcase Owens’s meticulous craftsmanship, redefining their function within the space.
The inclusion of a handcrafted luggage tag in coarse, hair-on cowskin disrupts the polished sheen of modernity. It speaks of primal connection, of an object meant to be held and experienced. Owens’s choice of material shifts the narrative from travel as convenience to travel as ritual.

Branding is minimal, emphasizing subtlety and intention. The emblems of both RIMOWA and Rick Owens whisper rather than announce, etched subtly into the surfaces. These marks, understated and deliberate, align with the collection’s ethos: an homage to form and material, unburdened by excess.

Owens’s voice is ever-present. He describes the suitcase as a tribute to the elemental and the eternal: “I wanted the outside finish to recall a bronze from Giacometti or Serra, and I wanted the interior to feel like the touch of a black leather glove.” His vision extends beyond the physical, layering memory and emotion into the object’s very fabric.

The new Original Cabin Bronze commands attention, forcing a reexamination of what it means to carry, to move, to possess. Its patina speaks in textures, rejecting order and expectation. RIMOWA and Rick Owens deliver an object of rebellion.

Paul Andrew Spring 2025

PAUL ANDREW
*Fusing Fashion with Radical Creativity

written SARAH ARENDTS

Titled without fanfare but pulsing with intent, the new Paul Andrew Spring 2025 campaign—a collaboration with an eclectic cohort of contemporary artists—unfolds as a declaration. The campaign lands like a manifesto for the avant-garde, a space where creativity reshapes the narrative of luxury fashion.

This is a campaign of tension and raw edges. Andrew’s collaborators embody modern disruption: Erica Ohmi’s glitch-ridden 3D textures flow into Rei Nadal’s surreal narratives. Sungi Mlengeya’s stark black-and-white portraits pull you into a quiet intensity that feels meditative. Jet Swan’s lens captures moments that resonate—charged and electric.

(c) Paul Andrew

(c) Paul Andrew

The energy is tangible. The collection speaks through footwear that transcends utility to become sculptural artifacts. Paul Andrew’s design carries an understated boldness. Translucent materials fold into shapes that feel as ephemeral as memory, while sharp cuts command attention with visceral impact. These pieces resonate without forcing clarity, allowing the viewer to linger in their intricacies.

Visual artist Jorden Steward’s work bursts with hyper-saturated tableaus of color, while Natasha Stagg’s fragmented storytelling adds depth to the mood. The campaign unfolds as a layered experience between physicality and abstraction.

Sound designer Frederic Sanchez creates sonic compositions that distort the visual narrative, scraping and humming like fractured memories. Luna Conte’s choreographed motion disrupts stillness, infusing movement with defiance.

Andrew’s campaign functions as an orbit of interconnected ideas and moments. The collaboration, with its fractured yet cohesive aesthetic, invites the audience to immerse in its density and discover its core.

Paul Andrew’s Spring 2025 campaign presents an unfiltered vision. The artists, visuals, and sound converge in a charged interplay that transcends interpretation. It is an experience that lingers, shifting something within—even if its shape remains elusive.

(c) Paul Andrew

(c) Paul Andrew

(c) Paul Andrew

campaign credits

creative director PAUL ANDREW

artists ERICA OHMI, JORDEN STEWARD, SIENNA MURDOCH, NATASHA STAGG, SUNGI MLENGEYA, JET SWAN, FREDERIC SANCHEZ, JASA MULLER, JACK LOVATT, @_UNFOLLOWING, REI NADAL, LUNA CONTE

VALENTINO Valentine’s Day 2025

Avant les Débuts with VALENTINO
*A Love Letter Rewritten

written MONICA DE LUNA

Maison Valentino’s Valentine’s Day 2025 is a riot of intimacy and rebellion. Under Alessandro Michele’s audacious creative direction, the ‘Avant les Débuts’ collection fractures traditional romance and pieces it back together into something electrifying.

Michele crafts accessories as conduits for emotion. Valentino Garavani’s signature Rockstud evolves into jagged, elongated forms—a tactile declaration of passion’s complexity. The collection hums with tension: metal edges collide with supple leather, each piece demanding touch while resisting easy understanding. These are objects that engage with desire in its purest form.

MAISON VALENTINO
Valentine´s Day Gifts 2025

The campaign imagery pulses with energy, refusing stasis. Sienna Murdoch’s kinetic work infuses an almost spectral quality—earrings captured mid-motion, belts twisting as if alive. Natasha Stagg’s layered prose threads through the visuals, creating a fragmented narrative that invites curiosity and disorientation.

Color in this collection agitates rather than soothes. Deep carmine flares against muted blush, with threads of gold drawing the viewer into unexpected depths. Michele uses these tones to evoke the sensory aftermath of unforgettable connection, each shade alive with intent.

Sound becomes another layer of storytelling. Frederic Sanchez’s auditory composition infects the campaign, with metallic whispers and creaking leather forming an intimate, voyeuristic atmosphere. These pieces don’t merely exist; they resonate, breathe, and linger.

‘Avant les Débuts’ transcends Valentine’s Day conventions, reimagining love as an experience of power and vulnerability. Alessandro Michele invites us to let go of sentimentality and embrace something sharper and more vital. Maison Valentino’s latest creation provokes, unsettles, and demands to be felt.

---

also read
GUCCI’s Cinematic Call to Emotion *Where Light Finds Us

GUCCI Spring 2025

GUCCI’s Cinematic Call to Emotion
* Where Light Finds Us

written AMANDA MORTENSON

GUCCI projects intensity and emotion. Spring 2025’s campaign, “Where Light Finds Us,” seen and directed by Xavier Dolan, pulses with raw tension and vulnerability. The actors Yara Shahidi and George MacKay anchor the scenes as glowing portraits of intimacy, caught in fleeting, luminous moments.

This isn’t a linear story. Instead, light takes on a transformative role, spilling through windows, cutting across walls, and touching brief, unspoken connections. Dolan’s lens captures moments of fleeting beauty, weaving shadows and light into a poetic visual experience.

GUCCI Spring 2025 Campaign
George MacKay

Gucci’s creative director, Sabato De Sarno, introduces a collection that moves fluidly between timelessness and modernity. Silhouettes include relaxed suiting and ethereal dresses that seem to float, creating a collection that refuses categorization. The iconic Bamboo 1947 bag reappears, embodying a sense of enduring elegance and thoughtful design. Every detail—from fabrics to stitching—is imbued with a quiet intensity, ready to resonate deeply.

Color choices feel deliberate, with soft blues and creams balanced by moments of vibrant citron and crimson. This intentional palette injects energy and emotional depth into the collection, offering a dynamic interplay of moods.

The campaign’s imagery thrives on ambiguity. Dolan’s still frames explore emotions through gestures and glances: hands brushing over fabric, light tracing a silhouette, or a gaze that holds untold stories. The camera lingers, urging viewers to delve deeper into its layers of meaning.

“Where Light Finds Us” challenges conventions and embraces an intimate, reflective tone. It invites the audience to sit with its layered beauty and absorb its quiet, human depth. Gucci’s Spring 2025 campaign transcends fashion, presenting a vision of raw emotion and light’s ability to reveal truth.

watch campaign film
GUCCI Spring 2025

campaign credits

GUCCI creative director SABATO DE SARNO
art director RICCARDO ZANOLA
seen + directed XAVIER DOLAN
models YARA SHAHIDI + GEORGE MACKAY
stylist FRANCESCA BURNS
hair JAWARA
makeup AARON DE MEY

GUCCI Spring 2025 Campaign
George MacKay

On x FKA twigs

From Form to Function with On
* The Body Is Art Training Campaign

written AMANDA MORTENSON

On teams up with the visionary FKA twigs to unveil The Body Is Art, Part II, the centerpiece of its Spring/Summer 25 Training Collection, presenting training as an evocative, immersive act of self-expression and artistry.

Under the creative direction of FKA twigs and through Jordan Hemingway’s lens, the campaign pulses with energy inside a raw, industrial London warehouse. Movement emerges as a powerful form of expression, channeling creativity and identity.

On x FKA twigs
The Body Is Art, Part II

On x FKA twigs
The Body Is Art, Part II

With Paralympic athlete Léa Bayekula, IFBB Pro bodybuilder Michelle Mensah, and dancer Nana Yaa, the visuals honor strength and individuality. Each participant embodies the vision of movement as art—a dynamic exploration of purpose and form.

“I’m drawn to bodies shaped by purpose, by life,” twigs reflects. “In The Body Is Art, Part II, strength becomes art. It’s about redefining beauty through function and celebrating what the body can do.” Her words resonate across the collection, which blends technical precision with a minimalist aesthetic to redefine training apparel.

On’s SS25 Training Collection delivers performance-driven designs with a striking edge. The campaign’s highlighted looks — from the streamlined Studio Cut Out Crop and Train Tights Short to the dynamic Train 2-in-1 Crop paired with Train Shorts — are engineered for freedom and resilience. Twigs herself embodies this duality, wearing pieces that flow seamlessly from performance to expression. Completing the aesthetic are On’s signature sneakers, including the versatile Cloudnova X and high-performance Cloud X 4. The wider SS25 line reflects On’s commitment to innovation and inclusivity. From high-intensity staples like the Train-T and Train Shorts to the ultra-soft Studio line tailored for yoga and barre, the collection addresses diverse movement needs while maintaining a sleek, modern look. It’s sportswear that not only adapts to the body but elevates it, making every movement an act of creativity.

watch campaign film
On x FKA twigs Present The Body Is Art, Part II Spring/Summer 2025

campaign credits

creative direction FKA twigs
seen Jordan Hemingway
film Robert Richardson
set design Jabez Bartlett
movement direction Zoï Tatopoulos
styling Georgia Pendlebury
mair Louis Souvestre
make up Tilda Mace

On x FKA twigs
The Body Is Art, Part II

On x FKA twigs
The Body Is Art, Part II

On’s global momentum gains another layer with The Body Is Art, Part II, an expression of its philosophy: movement as a profound force of creativity. Partnering with FKA twigs, the brand shapes training into a multidimensional exploration, one that unites body and soul in dynamics.

PITTI UOMO 107 - 2025

Boys on Fire
*PITTI UOMO 107

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

The winter edition of Pitti Uomo will be held at Florence's Fortezza da Basso from January 14 to 17, 2025. During these days, Fall/Winter 2025 collections from almost 790 brands—of which 45% are international—will showcase the new frontiers of menswear.

Menswear lovers, rejoice! PITTI Uomo is a journey into the world of menswear and its ongoing evolution, a stage for showcasing new ideas, trends, and collaborative projects through an exhibition path divided into five sections (Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out), and a curated calendar of special events, offering a comprehensive look at the many facets of men’s fashion.

Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo

This season will feature two guest designers: Satoshi Kuwata, who has chosen Florence for the first runway show of his brand Setchu, and MM6 Maison Margiela, which has created an exclusive menswear collection for Pitti Uomo. Many other new projects will be presented at the Fortezza, also through special connections with the world of art and photography, from established names to the most innovative research-driven brands, not to mention the lifestyle segment, which is becoming increasingly influential.

This January, Pitti Immagine's winter shows embrace fire as a unifying element to capture the essence and spirit of the upcoming season. FIRE is the theme behind the new ad campaigns for Pitti Uomo, Pitti Bimbo, and Pitti Filati, each uniquely tailored to reflect the character of each event under the creative direction of Angelo Figus, with graphic editing by Alessandro Gori. FIRE will also inspire the design setup at the Fortezza da Basso, curated by Alessandro Moradei.

“It's a recognition of the generative power of this primal element,” says Agostino Poletto, General Director of Pitti Immagine. “Fire brings people together, warming both body and soul, drawing attention and pointing the way. It serves to entertain, amaze, inspire, melt old ideas and habits, and forge new ones—just like fashion does. We'll spark excitement, ignite desires, and focus on challenges and solutions, just as Pitti Uomo always does.”

The Fortezza da Basso, like a grand department store, welcomes Pitti Uomo exhibitors and offers visitors a curated mix of brands and styles that meet market demands. The five sections – Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out – are confirmed, showcasing the Fall/Winter 2025 collections: from classic to casual, including innovative and outdoor wear. This edition also introduces an exciting new addition: Knees Up Running Space @ Pitti Uomo 107.

Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo

The evolution of classic style in its most refined and modern expression. From iconic Made in Italy brands to the pinnacle of international tailoring, this is a journey through the forms and materials of the classic wardrobe, always in touch with the contemporary. The destination: impeccable outfits and formal pieces made to be lived in now, yet crafted to last. A style for today’s gentleman and those of the past, defined by the rhythm of timeless elegance.

HEIGS Fall/Winter 2024 *Campaign

HEIGS Fall/Winter 2024 Campaign
*A Manifesto in Craft

written Sarah Arendts

The Alpine air holds secrets, and HEIGS knows how to listen. Their Fall/Winter 2024 campaign, “CODE SWISS,” takes its cues from the Aletsch Arena, a raw expanse of ice and earth. It’s a grounding force for the brand’s aesthetic—clean, intentional, and rooted.

Founded in 2021 by Johanna van der Drift and Daan van Luijn, HEIGS operates at the intersection of design and craft. Each piece emerges from 153 steps of haute maroquinerie, performed by a single artisan in France. The process unfolds with an attention to detail that reveals itself in every curve of leather and every precisely stitched seam.

HEIGS FW24 Campaign
(c) shot by Yuma Greco

The collection’s defining features include interchangeable linings, crafted from materials like antique Toile de Jouy or upcycled ballet fabrics. The use of full-grain “Safari” calfskin ensures that the bags mature over time, taking on a tactile richness that invites interaction. This season’s silhouettes, from “En Suisse” to “Petit Suisse,” reflect a commitment to simplicity without losing depth. For the “CODE SWISS” campaign, HEIGS chose the Aletsch Arena as its setting—a site where nature’s power and precision coexist. The location mirrors the ethos behind the designs, offering a visual narrative that feels timeless yet forward-thinking.

2025 marks a significant evolution for the brand as HEIGS prepares to launch its first outerwear collection. These pieces are being designed with the same philosophy that informs their handbags: deliberate, versatile, and crafted to leave a lasting impression.

HEIGS’ work resonates because it prioritizes material integrity and process over fleeting trends. The designs speak a language of restraint, where every element has purpose and intention. With a focus on expanding their global presence, HEIGS creates collections that connect to specific places while maintaining universal appeal.

“CODE SWISS” captures HEIGS’ essence—precision honed in the Alps and a craft philosophy that’s anything but ordinary. Each piece pulses with intent, stripping design back to its raw, tactile core. Beyond function, there’s a pull, a resonance that feels permanent, grounding, like the whisper of the mountains it’s born from.

Frank Gehry x Louis Vuitton *Art Basel 2024

Floating Vision with Louis Vuitton
Frank Gehry’s Architectural Dream at Art Basel

written Monica de Luna

Grand Palais, Art Basel Paris 2024—Louis Vuitton enters the scene with a bold vision that fuses fashion, art, and architecture into something entirely new.

Frank Gehry’s latest creation hovers above the space like an otherworldly presence, pushing past the expected and inviting us into a surreal, experimental universe. This is an awakening—a dynamic collision of creative forces that demands attention.

Perched on the Balcon d'Honneur, Gehry’s creations take command, embodying a raw force of nature. A colossal white fish hovers above the staircase, ghostly and alive with energy, fusing strength and fragility in a way that reflects Gehry’s signature approach.

The sculpture speaks to his relentless exploration of boundaries, where aerodynamics and chaotic elegance seamlessly converge, shifting our perception of space, function, and beauty into a realm that feels untouchable.

At the core of the exhibition is Louis Vuitton’s audacious vision, a bold move that embraces Gehry’s boundary-pushing creativity. Since 1854, Vuitton has thrived on fearless experimentation, and here they let Gehry fully unleash his architectural prowess.

His designs for the Capucines Mini Blossom and MM Concrete Pockets radiate with the same energy as his monumental structures. These bags transcend fashion, merging leather, glass, and metal into sculptural forms that carry the essence of Gehry’s architectural DNA.

Capucines BB Twisted Tower
seen (c) Philippe Lacombe

Capucines Mini Blossom
seen (c) Philippe Lacombe

Gehry’s Twisted Box is the exhibit’s undeniable centerpiece. The trunk, a Louis Vuitton icon, undergoes a radical transformation. Every corner, every curve defies logic, as if the object itself has been stretched, fractured, and reassembled with an electrifying tension. Yet somehow, amidst the chaos, there’s a harmonious balance—an unexpected unity within the deconstruction.

This tension is the essence of Gehry’s work with Louis Vuitton. His bags transcend function, embodying the spirit of his most legendary structures. The BB Analog pulls directly from the IAC Building in New York, while the MM Floating Fish bag draws inspiration from Gehry’s signature scales, intricately embedded into leather. His architectural language seamlessly flows into the world of high fashion, turning each piece into a wearable masterpiece. In this exhibition traditional craftsmanship meets experimental design, immersing viewers and wearers in a powerful experience.

Architectural sketch
(c) Frank Gehry

seen (c) Yong Joon Choi

Frank Gehry’s work with Louis Vuitton reshapes the concept of luxury itself. At Art Basel Paris 2024, the vision is unapologetically avant-garde and unsettling. Louis Vuitton and Gehry challenge conventions, leaving us curious for what follows.

all content
(c) Louis Vuitton & Frank Gehry for Art Basel 2024

NYFW *Spring/Summer 2025 Shao New York

.new collection
Shao New York: For the Rebel in a Suit
*NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

written Malcolm Thomas

Shao New York's sophomore collection is a cut above.

Shao New York designer, Shao Yang is loosening up the seams of tradition. In fact, nothing about her calculated ascension in fashion is traditional at all, except for her clothing, sort of. (More on that later).

Having wrapped her second show (her first made headlines on the roof of Anna Delvey’s apartment), it’s clear that the emerging label is more than just hype. She proved that Wednesday evening, as she closed out the Spring/Summer 2025 season of New York Fashion Week with a show that her publicist, Kelly Cutrone, proudly coined over a microphone before it began, “from rooftop to runway.”    

The actual title is Class of 98: Rebellion Remastered. The program was printed on thick stock paper, and it felt and read like a cleverly written manifesto rather than show notes. However, Yang’s point of view is clearly laser focused. Yang described the collection as an antidote to the Instagram nostalgia social media is currently trapped in and more as a tribute to old-school teen angst before we spent more time curating our brand image on our phones than spending it at the park or driving around town with our friends. A simpler time, one could argue.

What’s not up for debate—Shao New York’s mastery of tailoring. She also owns another business, The Tailory, which designs bespoke suiting aimed at the LGBTQIA+ community, probably one if not the first of its kind. The thirty-five look collection—rooted in leather, denim, and cashmere, also has some really impressive trompe l’oeil shirting because as Yao states in the program, “let’s face it, the ’90s were all about illusion”. Of course, there was a lot of statement suiting, too. Call it a redux of the boss bitch energy archetype Donna Karan created in the 80s but bejeweled.

While inspired by the youth culture of the '90s, these were the kind of clothes that make you want to grow up fast. The kind of clothes a young Carrie Bradshaw might wear on a night out with Big, perhaps, as he rolls down the window of his town car, takes one last look at her and says, “Abso-fucking-lutely.”

also read Private Policy at Work *NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

all content
(c) SHAO New York seen by Randy Brooke, NYFW 2025 - Spring/Summer 2025