ELHO Freestyle *Summer Collection 25

ELHO FREESTYLE by DONALD SCHNEIDER
*Where Mountain Meets Urban Style

written SARAH ARENDTS

Under the theme Style Your Own Experience, ELHO Freestyle launched its highly anticipated Summer Collection. Merging outdoor performance with avant-garde design and bio-based materials, this new line specifically appeals to the style-conscious younger generation.

Donald Schneider, Creative Director of ELHO Freestyle, explained the concept in an exclusive interview with LE MILE Magazine: “Even though we are a 75-year-old heritage brand, we relaunched with a totally innovative new look to excite the new generation. Our products are designed for mountain performance yet suitable for everyday urban style. You can freely combine them—whether you're wearing hiking boots, high heels, sneakers, or flip-flops.”

ELHO Streetwear
Style Your Own Experience
Summer 2025 Collection

ELHO Streetwear
Style Your Own Experience
Summer 2025 Collection

Athlete-Inspired Innovation with Andri Ragettli

Freestyle Ski champion and social media sensation Andri Ragettli played an essential role in shaping this collection. Known for his daring stunts and distinctive style, Ragettli embodies the ELHO Freestyle spirit. According to Donald Schneider, "From our first conversation, it was clear how deeply Andri cares not only about his performance but also his style and appearance. He found that no existing outdoor brand truly catered to his aesthetic, even resorting to custom-made performance pants by a tailor."

This detailed feedback became instrumental in shaping ELHO’s products. For instance, Ragettli emphasized practical considerations like relocating ankle zippers to the outside of pants to withstand the wear and tear from high-impact freestyle skiing tricks. Andri Ragettli's hands-on involvement ensures each garment meets the rigorous demands of professional sports and urban fashion. The athlete rigorously tests each piece, wearing them during intense training and also during travel and city life, underscoring the collection’s versatility.

An Iconic Artistic Collaboration: Jean-Michel Basquiat

An extraordinary highlight of ELHO’s 2025 summer collection is the collaboration featuring the legendary artist Jean-Michel Basquiat. Renowned for his powerful, raw artistic expression, Basquiat’s iconic artworks have been translated into compelling black-and-white graphic prints on performance bomber jackets and shell pants. Donald Schneider reflects on the personal connection and inspiration behind the collaboration: “I knew Jean-Michel personally during my years in New York. His art remains incredibly impactful and resonates deeply with today's youth, who have rediscovered his pioneering spirit. His bold style perfectly complements our fusion of streetwear sensibility and outdoor functionality.”

The capsule includes standout pieces such as the Echo Bomber Jacket, distinguished by its bold black-and-white Basquiat print, creating statement looks that transition seamlessly from ski slopes to urban adventures.

Donald Schneider
Creative Director at ELHO Streetwear
seen by Henrik Nielsen

“Just look at how sports embraced urban style and innovative design—and it turned out to be their biggest revolution. We are convinced that this has to happen with outdoor wear too.”

Donald Schneider speaks with Sarah Arendts
for LE MILE .DIGITAL - Spring 2025

ELHO Streetwear
Style Your Own Experience
Summer 2025 Collection

ELHO Streetwear
Style Your Own Experience
Summer 2025 Collection

Sustainable Style: Durability Meets Ethical Fashion

Sustainability remains central to ELHO Freestyle’s design ethos. Rejecting fast fashion, the collection emphasizes longevity, durability, and the use of bio-based materials. Each piece, such as the ultralight Valley bomber jacket made from biobased nylon or the Zephir Pants inspired by traditional Japanese martial arts, is meticulously crafted from robust, eco-friendly materials sourced responsibly. These garments promise lasting quality, comfort and represent a conscious commitment to resource preservation.

The Return of an Iconic Heritage Brand

Donald Schneider, the visionary behind ELHO Freestyle's relaunch, brings an illustrious career in fashion innovation, previously serving as Art Director at French Vogue and pioneering global designer collaborations, notably Karl Lagerfeld x H&M. Schneider sees enormous potential in redefining outdoor apparel, which traditionally has struggled to embrace innovative style and urban aesthetics. “Our goal with ELHO Freestyle is clear: to reclaim our position as a pioneering brand,” Schneider explains. “Historically, ELHO was always ahead of its competitors, breaking conventional boundaries. Today, our ambition remains the same. We observe how sportswear has revolutionized urban style; now, it's time for outdoor apparel to undergo the same transformation. This is precisely the vision behind our current collection.”

ELHO Streetwear
Style Your Own Experience
Summer 2025 Collection

The market response has already been overwhelmingly positive, resonating especially with global tastemakers in cities like Seoul, Berlin, Zurich, and Paris. Influencers, stylists, musicians, and athletes alike have embraced the brand’s new direction, affirming its relevance and appeal. The ELHO Freestyle Summer Collection 2025 is available online!

discover more www.ELHOfreestyle.com

all visuals (c) ELHO Freestyle

Signature Clo *Singular Vision

SIGNATURE CLO
*A Language of Form and Presence

written MONICA DE LUNA

Signature Clo approaches design as an architectural discipline, where fabric becomes structure and movement shapes identity. Each piece is engineered with precision, using weight and proportion to define space. Cloth is a framework for expression.

The oversized hoodie establishes form through deliberate volume, reinforcing its presence with carefully weighted seams. The heavyweight tee interacts with the body's posture, shaping an interplay between material and wearer. Garments evolve with every movement, recording the rhythm of daily life.

Signature Clo
Sweater

Signature Clo
Ego Death Hoodie

Each stitch follows a calculated design process. Textures react to touch, fibers adjust to wear, and silhouettes refine themselves over time. This approach transforms fabric into an evolving canvas of lived experience. Signature Clo operates with an acute awareness of proportion. Every cut, every seam carries intent. Garments are designed for wear and interaction. They align with posture, adjust to the body's stance, and move with fluidity. The structured hoodie is crafted with reinforced stitching to maintain its sculptural integrity. Fabric is selected based on density and responsiveness, ensuring each piece carries presence. Textile composition is studied in detail—weight and weave dictate drape, while seam placement controls balance.

These garments are built for longevity. Over time, fibers mold to the wearer, creating a distinct relationship between material and motion. The more they are worn, the more they adapt, deepening their connection with the individual. Signature Clo sources premium materials that support function and form. Heavy cotton blends provide structure, allowing garments to hold their intended shape. Tactile surfaces invite interaction, shifting with light and movement. Fabric selection is integral to the design philosophy. The oversized hoodie is developed with dense textiles that offer resistance while maintaining comfort.

The heavyweight tee is composed of finely woven fibers that respond to air and motion. Every material is chosen for its ability to retain its silhouette while adapting to daily use. This approach ensures that garments remain visually and physically substantial. Layers of texture enhance depth, while expertly placed stitching reinforces each seam. The result is a collection that stands independently, yet integrates seamlessly into the wearer’s experience.

Signature Clo emphasizes the tactile nature of design. Fabric reacts to movement, adjusting with subtle shifts in motion. Textures hold memory, shaping themselves through repeated interaction. The oversized hoodie anchors itself through measured weight distribution.

Seams follow natural lines of motion, allowing unrestricted movement while maintaining a structured profile. The heavyweight tee extends outward, balancing volume with precision. Each piece carries an embedded physicality—designed to be experienced and observed.

Signature Clo
Hoodie

Signature Clo
T-Shirt

Signature Clo constructs garments that are intentional and evolving. Light moves across their surfaces, emphasizing their depth and dimension. Textiles absorb and reflect their environment, interacting with space in tangible ways. The collection exists at the intersection of design and experience. Silhouettes expand and contract with wear, becoming an extension of movement. Each garment is a study in proportion, a composition of fabric and form designed to endure. Signature Clo refines the language of streetwear, sculpting a vision where structure defines presence, and fabric carries identity.

Signature Clo: The Art of Constructed Motion.

discover more www.signature-essentials.com

all visuals (c) Signature

AMOUAGE *Purpose 50

AMOUAGE PURPOSE 50
*An Extrait of Skin, Memory, and Resonance

written ALBAN E. SMAJLI

Amouage distills time, memory, and olfactory science into something beyond mere scent—an artifact of human essence. Purpose 50 Exceptional Extrait embodies intensity, a composition that commands presence.

Sitting in his Oman studio, overlooking the alchemical heartbeat of Amouage, Chief Creative Officer Renaud Salmon dissects its creation. “We call it an exceptional extrait,” he begins. At 50% pure perfume oil, Purpose 50 demands a recalibration of what perfume achieves, engaging with the skin in a way that shifts perception.

PURPOSE 50 / Exceptional Extrait
— a composition that inhabits the skin, crafted with 50% pure perfume oil,
frankincense, sandalwood, and vanillin form a resonance of depth and presence

Quentin Bisch, the nose behind it all, approaches perfumery without hesitation. “I add,” he declares. “Why repeat something that exists?” Purpose 50 emerges as a crafted entity with depth and intention. This fragrance follows an anatomy. Frankincense forms its vertebrae, shaped by the Omani landscape—a tree that endures, producing a resin unlike any other. “I was rediscovering Purpose in the air, on people’s skin,” Bisch recalls. The transition from creation to wearer reshaped its identity. “I looked at the tree again—its roots, its branches. A human form emerged, standing, grounded.”

This relationship between raw material and human experience adds texture. Sandalwood moves across the skin, its caress deliberate and immersive. Vanillin enhances its presence, drawing the senses in. A specific rose appears, designed for structure rather than decoration, binding the elements with a weightless elegance. Perfume vibrates, and Bisch tunes frequencies, seeking a precise accord. Vetiver and papyrus establish movement, incense pulses through the layers. Each addition amplifies the foundation. Purpose 50 carries a distinct resonance, existing beyond the boundaries of tradition.

“I was rediscovering Purpose in the air, on people’s skin. The transition from creation to wearer reshaped its identity.”

Quentin Bisch on Purpose 50

PURPOS 50 / Exceptional Extrait
—an olfactory force shaped by Oman’s soul

Renaud poses the essential question: Why do people call this the archetype of Amouage? Bisch responds without hesitation. “It carries Oman. It exists in freedom.” Purpose 50 demands skin, movement, and presence. “We categorize perfume like we categorize people,” Bisch reflects. “Who elects the ‘best’?”

Purpose 50 Exceptional Extrait resists classification. It extracts something from the wearer, a perfume designed to be felt rather than worn. Amouage shapes a force of creation, its presence extending beyond words, living within the space between sensation and memory.

Valentino *Pavillon des Folies

VALENTINO SS25
*Theatrum Mundi

written SARAH ARENDTS

Valentino SS25 moves beyond the realm of fashion, unfolding as a staged delirium where beauty performs in its purest form.

Alessandro Michele constructs a world where nothing is static, garments exist in flux, and identity bends toward theatrical excess. The collection channels movement—not as a metaphor, but as a tangible force. Fashion, in its essence, is a construction. Here, it is also a deconstruction, an invitation, a distortion.

Valentino
SS25 Campaign Pavillon des Folies

Each campaign frame is a performance, captured through Glen Luchford’s lens. Fabric rustles, lace distorts, silk drapes and clings with the inevitability of a script already written. The past lingers in embroidered surfaces, but the gesture is present, immediate. Rooms, once confined, stretch into liminal stages where models become vessels of transformation.

The cast moves through this imagined theater with the quiet tension of something unscripted. Jonathan Kaye’s styling sharpens the characters: punctuated silhouettes, lace gloved hands, the weight of a brocade, the sharp punctuation of a heel bow-tied in velvet.

The maison’s codes thread through the composition, but the script shifts. The stage is the Pavillon des Folies, a place without fixed identity, where beauty acts as a force, not an object. Alessandro Michele directs, but the narrative unfolds as an open-ended provocation.

Valentino
SS25 Campaign Pavillon des Folies

Louis Vuitton *LV BIKER

LV BIKER
*New Signature in Soft Power

written MONICA DE LUNA

A rebellion in leather. A manifesto in motion. The LV BIKER bag, unveiled in Louis Vuitton’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection, rewrites the language of luxury accessories. Designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, this latest signature piece channels the paradox of soft power—a force both undeniable and fluid, strength disguised in elegance.

The LV BIKER is a study in movement and form. Inspired by the silhouette of a classic biker jacket, its foldable construction reflects Louis Vuitton’s heritage of craftsmanship, shaping a new expression in design. With its supple structure and precise detailing, this bag embodies a distinct presence.

LOUIS VUITTON
Making Of

LOUIS VUITTON
LV BIKER Bag SS25 Collection

Introducing Pixel lambskin leather, an innovation in texture and tone. A meticulous layering process deepens the grain, giving the bag a two-toned effect that shifts under the light—an illusion of depth, a whisper of movement. Available in a spectrum of urban hues, from Pixel Noir to Dark Denim, Pixel Grège to Nano Noir, each variation speaks in its own frequency.

The LV BIKER thrives in transition. A dynamic interplay of straps and handles allows for multiple identities—worn as a clutch, draped over the elbow, slung across the body. A shape-shifting companion that adapts to the rhythms of the wearer, asserting itself in every iteration.

Heritage meets future. Trunk-making savoir-faire collides with contemporary utility. The LV BIKER bag, available in stores from February 22, 2025, challenges convention and refines rebellion. Three sizes. Infinite ways to wear.

LOUIS VUITTON
LV BIKER Bag SS25 Collection

LOUIS VUITTON
Runway

Louis Vuitton *Tambour Alchemize

Louis Vuitton Tambour
*Time Forged in Stone

written AMANDA MORTENSON

Louis Vuitton orchestrates time. The Tambour High End collection—now expanded with two audacious new iterations—embodies the synthesis of engineering and artistry. This is material mastery, savoir-faire expressed through horology.

Two watches. Two philosophies. A 40mm yellow-gold Tambour with a dial sculpted from Brazilian onyx, anchored in a bezel of saffron sapphires. A platinum Tambour, gradient-lit with rubies and sapphires, an explosion of calibrated color that reshapes the idea of the spectrum. Both operate in extreme limitation—only 30 and 50 pieces respectively. Their creation follows a meticulous process that dictates its own rarity.

Louis Vuitton
Tambour High-End Rainbow Session

For the first time, the Tambour embraces hard stone, elevating Brazilian onyx to an object of precision. Twelve individual segments form the dial’s minute ring—each piece drilled, polished, and adjusted under a near-zero margin for error. A slip, a scratch, a miscalculation? Start over. The luminous baguette-cut saffron sapphires carry a coded language, drawn from a 1911 Louis Vuitton trunk in Vuittonite yellow. Timekeeping here manifests as storytelling.

Platinum resists. It refuses to be easily shaped, demanding 30% more machining time than its gold counterpart. The result: a case of extreme density and weight, its brushed and polished surfaces absorbing and refracting light. Encircling it, a spectrum of 59 meticulously sourced corundum gemstones, their color transition seamless—no jarring breaks, no discord. From the high-energy fuchsia rubies of Mozambique to the deep greens and violets of Sri Lanka, this is color as movement, gradient as narrative. Even the caseback whispers exclusivity—a single 1.6mm saffron sapphire, a hidden marker of the watch’s platinum identity.

Within both pieces beats the Calibre LFT023—the first proprietary three-hand movement of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Aan exhibition of savoir-faire: Geneva Chronometric Observatory-certified accuracy (-4/+6 seconds per day), a 22K rose gold micro-rotor carved with the Louis Vuitton monogram, a barrel adorned with the maison’s signature flower motif. 50-hour power reserve. 31 colorless sapphires embedded for reduced friction. Precision and poetry, without compromise.

Louis Vuitton
Tambour High-End YG ONYX Front

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour High End collection manifests as an expression of material truth. Time, sculpted in precious stones and metals, takes on permanence. 30 yellow gold. 50 platinum. The countdown has already begun.

Prada Re-Nylon 2025

Prada’s Re-Nylon Odyssey
Threads That Speak of Oceans

written ALBAN E. SMAJLI

Threads are never just threads. In Prada’s hands, they’re remnants of past errors and whispers of future hope. Collaborating once again with National Geographic CreativeWorks, Prada ventures into uncharted territories of storytelling, presenting a series of cinematic vignettes that unravel the origins of their regenerative vision.

Benedict Cumberbatch and Sadie Sink, figures of cultural magnetism, traverse Norway and Mexico in this year’s episodes. Their presence illuminates the heart of the initiative. These are ecosystems of thought, connecting marine preservation, education, and the fashion landscape. Under the lens of Prada’s ongoing SEA BEYOND project, initiated in 2019 with UNESCO’s Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission, every stitch in the Re-Nylon fabric is a conversation about oceanic literacy and collective futures.

BENEDICT CUMBERBATCH
Lofoten, Norway

(c) PRADA 2025
Re-Nylon Collection

In the Lofoten Archipelago, Arctic winds carry tales of marine life entangled in ghost nets—silent invaders drifting through global currents. Benedict Cumberbatch, alongside environmental advocate Valentina Gottlieb and local expert Carl Höjman, traces these remnants of plastic to the systems that perpetuate ecological harm. This episode confronts the urgency of protecting marine ecosystems, turning a lens toward the actions shaping their future.

Sadie Sink explores the intricate ecosystems of Mexican waters, revealing their fragility and the ongoing efforts to nurture their survival. Prada’s Re-Nylon initiative engages with local communities to amplify solutions addressing environmental challenges. These films draw attention to the necessity of preservation, weaving together stories of resilience and action.

SEA BEYOND extends beyond the physical, creating a platform of education and engagement. Since 2019, over 35,000 students have explored ocean literacy through innovative tools like VR and outdoor learning, bridging the gap between ecosystems and those poised to inherit them. The initiative’s mission is clear: to counter ignorance with knowledge and inspire active stewardship.

In Venice, the “Kindergarten of the Lagoon” cultivates early connections with fragile marine systems. Children learn directly from the environment, understanding its delicate balance and also their role in its future. Through SEA BEYOND, 1% of Re-Nylon’s proceeds fuel programs that sustain these efforts, transforming products into purposeful action.

watch film PRADA RE-NYLON ON ARCTIC TIDES

(c) PRADA 2025
Re-Nylon Collection

Re-Nylon challenges the industry’s entanglement with unsustainable practices. Prada’s approach, showcased through National Geographic’s visual narratives, provokes thought and sparks dialogue. These episodes confront and explore the transformative potential of fashion as a medium for ecological advocacy. With every thread crafted from ocean waste, Re-Nylon embodies a deliberate step toward a conscientious future where aesthetic value aligns with environmental intent. Prada’s vision creates a roadmap for luxury redefined—where responsibility shapes identity.

NYFW *Spring/Summer 2025 Shao New York

.new collection
Shao New York: For the Rebel in a Suit
*NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

written Malcolm Thomas

Shao New York's sophomore collection is a cut above.

Shao New York designer, Shao Yang is loosening up the seams of tradition. In fact, nothing about her calculated ascension in fashion is traditional at all, except for her clothing, sort of. (More on that later).

Having wrapped her second show (her first made headlines on the roof of Anna Delvey’s apartment), it’s clear that the emerging label is more than just hype. She proved that Wednesday evening, as she closed out the Spring/Summer 2025 season of New York Fashion Week with a show that her publicist, Kelly Cutrone, proudly coined over a microphone before it began, “from rooftop to runway.”    

The actual title is Class of 98: Rebellion Remastered. The program was printed on thick stock paper, and it felt and read like a cleverly written manifesto rather than show notes. However, Yang’s point of view is clearly laser focused. Yang described the collection as an antidote to the Instagram nostalgia social media is currently trapped in and more as a tribute to old-school teen angst before we spent more time curating our brand image on our phones than spending it at the park or driving around town with our friends. A simpler time, one could argue.

What’s not up for debate—Shao New York’s mastery of tailoring. She also owns another business, The Tailory, which designs bespoke suiting aimed at the LGBTQIA+ community, probably one if not the first of its kind. The thirty-five look collection—rooted in leather, denim, and cashmere, also has some really impressive trompe l’oeil shirting because as Yao states in the program, “let’s face it, the ’90s were all about illusion”. Of course, there was a lot of statement suiting, too. Call it a redux of the boss bitch energy archetype Donna Karan created in the 80s but bejeweled.

While inspired by the youth culture of the '90s, these were the kind of clothes that make you want to grow up fast. The kind of clothes a young Carrie Bradshaw might wear on a night out with Big, perhaps, as he rolls down the window of his town car, takes one last look at her and says, “Abso-fucking-lutely.”

also read Private Policy at Work *NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

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(c) SHAO New York seen by Randy Brooke, NYFW 2025 - Spring/Summer 2025

NYFW *Spring/Summer 2025 Private Policy

.new collection
Private Policy at Work
*NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

written Malcolm Thomas

This season Private Policy tries to tackle AI and corporate oppression with a pop culture twist.

Everyone knows Theodore Shapiro’s now infamous compositions from the fashion classic, The Devil Wears Prada and can’t help but feel a certain wide-eyed excitement when they hear it. That’s probably precisely why it was playing over the speakers at The Altman Building before the Private Policy show on Wednesday, and certainly one of the reasons for the collection’s title, The Devil Is Here.

It was also one of many inspirations for the brand’s most recent collection. Iconic easter eggs like the famous Miranda Priestly line, “Everybody wants to be us,” was printed across a polo, and another line, “Florals, for spring?” inspired the brand’s signature checker prints to be updated with, you guessed it, florals.

However, the Private Policy designers, Haoran Li and Siying Qu’s sole intention was not to take us on a trip down memory lane, but to try to tackle a daunting conversation, one that has caused widespread fear in the heart of many creatives, AI. Where is it going? How will it impact us? Whether that question was answered was debatable, but it segued into another fear, going to the office.

The show opened with two employees clocking in, the daily rhythm most of us are slaves to and have dreaded even more post-pandemic, complete with disembodied ringing phones, computer clacking, Mac desktops, and even cubicles where the two performers pretended to type away as models burst through the seemingly corporate drudgery, key fobs dangled from pockets with empty plastic ID sleeves, work shirts were styled with combo jersey shorts and mini-skirts and even glittering hot pants made an appearance at the office. For context, this was a fashion office.

According to the program, the takeaway is this, “Perhaps what today’s generation truly seeks is not a return to the rigid hierarchies of Y2K corporate life, but the unapologetic ambition and dream-big energy of the Y2K era, reimagined for a future that prioritizes creativity and self-expression over outdated notions of obedience and submission.”

Then suddenly the performers promptly strutted down and off the runway. I guess it’s time to clock out.

also read Shao New York: For the Rebel in Suit *NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

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(c) Private Policy New York seen by Adriana Kaegi / NYFW 2025 - Spring/Summer 2025

NYFW *Spring/Summer 2025 Aknvas

.new collection
Aknvas With a View
*NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

written Malcolm Thomas

Office chic, camp, and fluidity were the themes at Aknvas.

From the 37th floor of Tapestry at 10 Hudson Yards, Danish designer Christian Juul Nielsen, the designer behind Aknvas (a Danish play on “canvas”) proved that he knows all about strong points of view with an impressive resume that spans stints at John Galliano for Dior to Oscar de la Renta, Nielsen’s work under the tutelage of fashion’s modern masters gives him major bragging rights. However, Aknvas doesn’t promise the same kind of pointed perfection of his predecessors but something much more inviting—freedom.

The freedom lies not just in the designers’ clothes but the people wearing them. The type of genderless and youthful fluidity that acts as an honest reflection of the mirepoix of talent working in the industry and those inspired by it. These clothes are pretty but not delicate, tough but not mean, these clothes are for everyone.

The official title of the collection was Nordic Midsummer Camp, and Aknvas inventive takes on denim and his liberal use of floral appliques, his vegan leather peplum jackets, and shimmering sequin ensembles seemed loud enough to make this a camp of dreams and speaking of the office, Nielsen’s pinstripe shirt dress and pinstripe padded shoulder cropped shirt with matching skirt will definitely fight off any Sunday scaries, indeed. Gen Z eat your heart out.

There is also great skill in choosing the right venue for your show, as is the right fabric for a collection, and no one would argue an office building might not be the most summery choice, especially when competing against a panoramic backdrop of the Manhattan skyline. Think about it: there is something inherently imposing. The sharp cornered edges, the machine-cut glass, the sound the ground makes when you tiptoe down the lacquered lobby, yet Nielsen’s collection shone through like I imagine it always does.

also read Bad Binch Tong Tong Goes to Church (and Space) *NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

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(c) Aknvas, NYFW 2025 - Spring/Summer 2025

NYFW *Spring/Summer 2025 Bad Binch Tong Tong

.new collection
Bad Binch Tong Tong Goes to Church (and Space)
*NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

written Malcolm Thomas

Aliens, divinity, and love were at the heart of Bad Binch Tong Tong’s latest collection.

Like a great roll of spandex, the crowd stretched outside St. Bartholomew’s Church and around the corner of 325 Park Avenue on a balmy Saturday afternoon. At first glance, a passerby might be more curious as to how a church had managed to attract such an unlikely crowd and such blatant attention from the public in a city that has quite literally seen it all, that was until Bad Binch Tong Tong took over one of Manhattan’s most exclusive zip codes for a fashion show, of course. Let me set the scene: the front steps of the church were filled with news cameras and paparazzi; the guests: the famous and the infamous, including America’s favorite bad girl, Anna Delvey (who was working the door) and the ringleader responsible for gathering up such a double-take-worthy group of fashion counter culturists no other than the Queen of New York PR, Kelly Cutrone. In short, a time would not only be had but ordained.

Now let’s talk about the show because the Forbes 30 under 30 designer, Terrence Zhou, whose label’s moniker is a combination of a childhood nickname and his birth name, did not only give us a collection, he gave us a show! Much like the designer’s fashion persona that lives somewhere between satire and mad genius, his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Whisper Across Dimensions was unequivocally out of this world.

Inspired by aliens, think The Day The Earth Stood Still meets The Fifth Element, Zhou imagined a reality where aliens finally make contact with the earth, culminating into a cautious trek, the alien’s shimmering air membranes protecting them from the harshness of our world communicated through what can only be described as pumpkin-shaped pods turned into sculptural improbabilities in the many shapes and sizes of sci-fi dresses and even wearable flowers.

Told through music composed by Katie Jenkins that belonged in a blockbuster epic and led by dancers choreographed by Stefanie Nelson, the Parsons and Central Saint Martins alum ended his Iliad with a dance of his own, unsurprisingly with fabric, before inviting the cast onto the stage which erupted the audience into applause and then to their feet as they rushed for a second chance to marvel at the collection up close.

I went into Bad Binch Tong Tong with no expectations but was thrilled to be allowed to escape the worries and fears of these times, if even just for a moment; to sum it up best, there was one particular line from the program that I found quite poignant. It reads, “The show is not just a display of fashion but a sacred communion, a place where we can feel the presence of higher beings, where the dimensions overlap, and where love is the only truth that matters.”

also read Aknvas With a View *NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

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(c) Bad Binch Tong Tong, NYFW 2025 - Spring/Summer 2025

Calvin Klein x Alexander Skarsgård

.new collection
Calvin Klein Fall 2024 Campaign
with Alexander Skarsgård

written Amanda Mortenson

Calvin Klein’s Fall 2024 menswear campaign is a vibe—an unapologetic nod to the brand’s DNA, but sharper, bolder, and anchored by none other than Alexander Skarsgård.

At the heart of Calvin Klein’s Fall 2024 campaign lies Calvin Klein Studio—a collection that takes minimalism and levels it up with luxe materials and razor-sharp cuts. Think slim suiting, smooth outerwear, and Alexander Skarsgård’s effortless swagger, all wrapped in a vibe that screams quiet power. It’s sleek, it’s modern, and it’s unmistakably Calvin.

The visuals drip with a kind of sophisticated ease, where the fabrics do the talking—clean lines, rich textures, and a no-fuss approach to style that feels at home anywhere, from city streets to intimate late-night gatherings. Calvin Klein is owning the dawn-to-dusk vibe, and Skarsgård is the man to take us there.

(c) Calvin Klein with Alexander Skarsgard
Directed and seen by Mert Alas
Styled by Emmanuelle Alt

Calvin Klein Studio flips the script on minimalism, injecting it with fresh energy through high-end materials like soft wools and crisp cottons. It’s understated, but far from simple—this is about craftsmanship and detail, the kind you can feel. Skarsgård moves through it all with his signature nonchalance. He makes every piece look like it was made for Mr. Skarsgård!

Skarsgård and CK are a match made in minimalist heaven—two icons of understated masculinity, cool without even trying.

“It felt sophisticated and sleek, but still very relaxed and playful,”

Alexander Skarsgård

(c) Calvin Klein

(c) Calvin Klein

Mugler x Gentle Monster *Eyewear Capsule

.new campaign
Mugler x Gentle Monster Collaboration
Visionary Collision

written Amanda Mortenson

Fashion lovers, brace yourselves!
Mugler and Gentle Monster have joined forces, pushing the envelope with a daring new eyewear collection.

The collaboration is a high-voltage fusion of Mugler’s iconic heritage and Gentle Monster’s futuristic edge. This embodies the fearless spirit of both brands, capturing the essence of Mugler’s ‘Les Insectes’ haute couture collection from 1997 with a modern twist. Think geometric marvels and goggle shapes that scream avant-garde.

Georgia Palmer for Gentle Monster x MUGLER Campaign
2024 Collaboration

Colin Jones

Gentle Monster x MUGLER
2024 Collaboration

Georgia Palmer

Starring Colin Jones and Georgia Palmer and shot by Theo Liu, the campaign is a visual feast. It’s a nod to legendary visual innovators like Helmut Newton and Manfred Thierry Mugler, merging high fashion with kinetic energy. The visuals are an art form, showcasing the dynamic synergy between Mugler and Gentle Monster. Beyond the eyewear, the collaboration extends to its packaging, blending organic and structural forms that are as innovative as the pieces themselves. This is about reimagining what eyewear can be. To celebrate, Seoul and Shanghai will host special activations featuring ephemeral spaces and kinetic structures, reflecting the bold identities of the two brands.

This partnership is a seismic shift in the fashion landscape. Mugler x Gentle Monster redefines what it means to be visionary, setting the stage for the future of eyewear.

Mark your calendars for July 18th, 2024!

all images
(c) MUGLER x GENTLE MONSTER Collaboration
2024

OLAKALA Summer Core Collection 2024

.New Collection
OLAKALA Summer Core Collection
*Heatwave Ready

written Amanda Mortenson

OLAKALA’s new Summer Core Collection is the ultimate guide to staying stylish during those sweltering days.

Born from the minds of streetwear visionaries Tim Gabel and Nicolas Lazaridis, this collection is their manifesto: a seamless fusion of cutting-edge design and high-performance fabrics, redefining comfort for the urban nomad.

OLAKALA CC Short Sleeve Shirt

OLAKALA CC T-Shirt

First up, the CC T-Shirt. Made from 100% cotton and adorned with the signature OLAKALA logo embroidery, it’s the quintessential all-rounder. Navigating the city or chilling on the beach, this tee has your back. Its laid-back vibe and airy fabric make it an essential for any summer capsule wardrobe.

Back this season, the Anatomy Tanktop is all about those bold seams and stretchy ribbed fabric. From beach workouts to poolside hangs, this tank redefines what it means to move freely and stylishly. Enjoy!

When the heat's on, reach for the CC Short Sleeve Shirt. This hybrid marvel blends the breathability and moisture-wicking prowess of Lyocell and Modal with the toughness of polyester. Light and breezy with a relaxed fit, it flaunts the iconic OLAKALA logo embroidery on the chest pocket, merging function and style seamlessly.

This season, shorts get a serious upgrade with three fresh styles. The Kos Shorts, built from rugged rip-stop fabric, boast an elastic waistband and French pockets—ideal for those easy-going summer nights. For the blazing days, the ultra-light CC Shorts are your savior. With piped side seams, a relaxed fit, and moisture-wicking material, they scream comfort. And then there are the OLAKALA Swim Shorts—true showstoppers. Sporting a great monogram effect that pops on contact with water, a reflective logo print on the leg, an elastic waistband, drawstring with personalized lace tips, and mobile phone side pockets with a comfy triangle lining, these are set to dominate the season.

also read OLAKALA Soccer Capsule *From Stadium to Street

OLAKALA Swim Shorts

No summer collection is complete without the iconic OLAKALA Duffle Bag. This accessory is perfect for any sunny getaway, ensuring you carry your essentials with style. Each piece from the Summer Core Collection 2024 is designed with precision and an eye for detail, ensuring that your summer wardrobe is as functional as it is stylish. No matter whether you’re hitting the beach, the pool, or just chilling in the city, OLAKALA has you covered.

OLAKALA CC T-Shirt

OLAKALA Duffle Bag

OLAKALA's Summer 2024 Capsule Collection is now available online.

discover more www.olakala.de / follow brand @olakalaofficial

all images (c) OLAKALA, 2024

OLAKALA launches *Soccer Capsule

.New Collection
OLAKALA Soccer Capsule
*From Stadium to Street

written Monica de Luna

Game on—OLAKALA drops a new bombshell with their Soccer Capsule, timed perfectly for UEFA Euro 2024.

Stuttgart’s streetwear heavyweights are back, riding the Bloke-Core wave with a fierce twist on the classic football jersey. Pink, green, black, and a bold splash of pink—this collection goes beyond sportswear; it's a fresh take on fashion.

Imagine yourself at a live match or taking over a city park during public viewing. The Soccer Capsule is a lifestyle. The regular-fit shirts, captured in the campaign’s edgy images, show off sporty mesh inserts and sleek piping. The overlapping yoke at the collar? Pure streetwise genius. Add in the iconic logos and patches, and you’ve got a unisex jersey that stands out in any crowd.

The campaign shots capture the essence of street football chic, showcasing the collection in relaxed, confident settings. The shorts, with their elastic waistband and adjustable inner drawstring, scream comfort and style. Side pockets and mesh inserts ensure you’re of course looking good but also moving freely, whether you're on the field or in the urban jungle.

Since 2018, when influencers Nicolas Lazaridis and Tim Gabel founded the brand, it’s become a staple in the streetwear scene. Based in Stuttgart, OLAKALA is known for seasonless, unisex collections that marry sporty basics with a street-ready aesthetic. Their rapid ascent in fashion circles isn't surprising actually—they've got their fingers on the pulse of modern urban style. The Soccer Capsule is the latest testament to OLAKALA’s design ethos—where functionality meets fashion. High-quality materials and innovative designs ensure each piece is as durable as it is stylish.

For the fashion-forward, the Soccer Capsule is a goldmine. It taps into the current Bloke-Core trend, where sportswear intersects with everyday fashion. So, whether you’re gearing up for a match or elevating your streetwear game, the Soccer Capsule is set to be a wardrobe staple.

OLAKALA's Soccer Capsule is now available online.

discover more www.olakala.de / follow brand @olakalaofficial

all images (c) OLAKALA

Iris Van Herpen *Fall 2024 Couture

*New Collection
Iris Van Herpen Fall 2024 Couture
Ethereal Avant-Garde

written Amanda Mortenson

In a show that felt more like an immersive art installation, Iris Van Herpen once again shattered the boundaries of fashion with her Fall 2024 Couture Collection. Held during Paris Fashion Week, Van Herpen´s presentation was a blend of avant-garde innovation and ethereal beauty, solidifying her place as a pioneer of the future of fashion.

Iris Van Herpen has once again transcended the traditional boundaries of fashion with her Fall 2024 Couture show. Eschewing the typical runway show, Van Herpen’s presentation, titled “Ethereal Genesis,” transformed models into living sculptures suspended against impasto-covered canvases. The effect was mesmerizing, as the models’ slow, deliberate movements conjured an ethereal dance of life and art.

Set within a gallery-like space, the presentation showcased nine works, each a testament to Van Herpen’s innovative approach to Haute Couture. Five of these were gowns, blending technology and craftsmanship in a way that only Van Herpen can. Models appeared to emerge from the canvases, stabilized by protruding shoes, moving with a grace that mimicked natural phenomena.

The pieces themselves were a marvel of design and execution. One gown featured rhythmic bursts of pearls, while another boasted a transparent, filigreed structure molded by a heat gun into glass-infused organza. The intricate patterns of constructed lace fused seamlessly with floaty silk, creating a dreamlike effect that captivated all the audience. A bronzed dress reimagined the traditional kimono, its intricate pleats and folds adding a sculptural dimension to the ensemble. Simply fantastic!

Van Herpen’s foray into pure artistic expression was evident in the remaining four works, not shown here. These pieces utilized filmy scrims adorned with solid oil paint fragments, airy draped tulle, and hand-pleated silk, creating a dynamic interplay between solid and ethereal elements. Her exploration of the duality of sculpture and dance, static and animated, was further emphasized by a soundscape composed by her partner, Salvador Breed.

The entire presentation was an invitation to linger and absorb the details, a stark contrast to the fleeting moments of a runway show. Van Herpen’s desire to capture time and allow the audience to find their own rhythm with her work was palpable. The experience was transportive, each piece a testament to months, even years, of meticulous work.

IRIS VAN HERPEN
Couture, Fall 2024
during
PARIS FASHION WEEK

In the end, as the models made their exit and the canvases stood empty save for the embedded shoes, Van Herpen’s suspended tulle sculptures remained. These ineffable variations on a self-portrait left an indelible mark, a reminder of the infinite possibilities when fashion and art collide.

all images
(c) IRIS VAN HERPEN, Couture Fall 2024 Show

DIOR Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 Haute Couture Show celebrating Faith Ringgold

.new collection
Threads of Freedom
DIOR AW24-25 Homage to Faith Ringgold

written Monica de Luna

Dior’s Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 Haute Couture Show emerges from the fusion of art and fashion, a poignant tribute to the late Faith Ringgold. Her prolific legacy of activism and creativity continues to inspire. Under Maria Grazia Chiuri’s visionary guidance, Dior’s Creative Director, the collection celebrates Ringgold’s indomitable spirit, seamlessly blending Haute Couture with powerful narratives of female empowerment and artistic rebellion.

Faith Ringgold, born in 1930 in Harlem, New York, passed away in April 2024, leaving behind a legacy that spanned over seven decades. Her multifaceted career as a painter, sculptor, performance artist, writer, and educator was marked by a relentless pursuit of social justice. Ringgold’s work, deeply rooted in African American identity and gender equality, found a resonant echo in Chiuri’s latest collection for Dior.

Read why!

“You can’t sit around and wait for somebody to say who you are. You need to write it and paint it and do it.”

— Faith Ringgold

SCENOGRAPHY © ADRIEN DIRAND
© Faith Ringgold @acagalleries
© Chanakya School of Craft (12)

SCENOGRAPHY © ADRIEN DIRAND
© Faith Ringgold @acagalleries
© Chanakya School of Craft (3)

The show was a dazzling spectacle, merging the elegance of Haute Couture with the raw energy of Ringgold’s artistic legacy. Chiuri’s audacious use of jersey—a material traditionally shunned by couture—defied conventions and redefined luxury. Metallic hues of gold, silver, and white jersey cascaded over models, with ultra-light bustiers sculpting their silhouettes, creating a symphony of classical aesthetics and modern innovation.

The scenography with installations showcasing some of Ringgold’s most iconic series: Freedom Woman Now and Woman Free Yourself. These political posters, born in the early 1970s, were potent reminders of Ringgold’s enduring feminist and activist spirit. Freedom Woman Now, with its interlocking triangles and bold declarations, remains a clarion call for gender equality—a message as powerful today as it was over fifty years ago.

Chiuri’s collection also paid homage to the classical peplum, reimagining this historically significant garment within the context of contemporary women’s political freedom. The intricate draping and pleating of the pieces echoed the fluidity of movement, nodding to athletes from antiquity to the present day who have continually pushed boundaries and shattered barriers.

One standout feature of the show was the reinterpretation of Ringgold’s Windows of the Wedding #1: Woman, a series that celebrated the collaboration between Ringgold and her mother, Madame Willi Posey. Banners inspired by this work highlighted the symbiotic relationship between art and fashion, weaving together personal and collective histories. The thangkas, traditionally used in Tibetan art, were transformed into vibrant backdrops, underscoring the collection’s rich thematic depth. Simply fabulous!

also read DIOR HC SS 2024 Collection Review

The collaboration with the Chanakya ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft brought Ringgold’s Civic Center L.A. Subway Commission mosaics to life, reimagined as stunning embroideries. These life-sized recreations adorned the runway, blurring the lines between art and Haute Couture, celebrating the unifying power of creativity ahead of the 2024 Paris Olympic and Paralympic Games.

Red, Christian Dior’s “color of life,” pulsed through the collection, infusing it with vitality and defiance. A bathrobe embellished with mosaic mirrors stood out, transforming a mundane item into a statement of artistic rebellion. This fusion of couture and sportswear, classicism and rebellion, showcased Chiuri’s knack for crafting a narrative that is reflective and visionary. Chiuri’s homage encapsulated Ringgold’s legacy, underscoring Haute Couture’s power to challenge perceptions and inspire change.

As Ringgold herself said,

“The most important thing, to me, in life is inspiration. I want to inspire others and I want to be inspired.”

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(c) DIOR HC AW24-25

LOUIS VUITTON *Spring-Summer 2025 by Pharrell Williams

.new collection
Louis Vuitton SS25 Men´s Collection
Pharrell's Cosmic Symphony

written Amanda Mortenson

Pharrell Williams just set Paris ablaze with Louis Vuitton's Spring-Summer 2025 Men’s Collection.

On the rooftop of La Maison de l’UNESCO, with panoramic views of Paris and a never-ending soundtrack—"Triumphus Cosmos"—vibrating through the air, it felt like stepping into a futuristic musical. The beats of Clipse, John Legend, and Adekunle Gold synced perfectly with a diverse cast of models showcasing a kaleidoscope of global culture.

Pharrell’s vision zooms out to a cosmic level, capturing humanity in all its nuanced glory. This SS25 Men´s collection is a solar reflection of our shared essence, with a palette inspired by skin tones from every corner of the globe. From a distance, the looks might seem monochromatic, but get closer, and you’ll see the intricate craftsmanship, like the complexities of human skin, unfold.
La Maison de l’UNESCO, a symbol of global unity and peace, was the perfect stage for this narrative. Here, the LVERS community—those who embody Louis Vuitton's ethos of discernment, craftsmanship, and an insatiable thirst for travel—gathered. The energy was electric, a melting pot of cultures and ideas, the essence of the Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme.

The show kicked off with a cinematic bang. Air Afrique’s prelude film, set within the UNESCO building, imagined future diplomats as children, absorbing lessons on unity from Simon Njami. This piece wasn’t just a film; it was a statement on intergenerational responsibility and the power of cultural fusion. Air Afrique’s artistic fingerprints were all over the collection, infusing it with Afro-diasporic patterns and graphics that bridged continents and eras.

Fashion-wise, Pharrell played with archetypes of travel. Think tailored jackets and bombers inspired by pilots, double-breasted coats for the suave diplomat, and technical sportswear for the modern explorer. Tracksuits and workwear were refined to perfection, catering to the jet-setter who values both comfort and style.

also read LOUIS VUITTON Cruise 2025 Collection Review

Embroideries, buttons, and fabrics—each element was a detailed marvel. Patterns and Monograms took on skin-like textures, blending seamlessly with materials that mimicked animal hides, adding layers of tactile intrigue.

Accessories were actually focal points. Bijou-encrusted buttons, pearl-lined belt chains, and intricately embroidered details turned every item into a piece of art. The Soft Leather Goods line redefined classics like the Alma and Neverfull, crafting them in luxurious, supple leather with historic Monogram embellishments. These bags, along with the artisanal trunks, screamed luxury and functionality.

Footwear was just as dynamic, with LV Agent boots featuring square toes and thick soles, LV Bowling shoes in elegant nappa leather, and LV Rider cowboy boots in exotic patches. Sunglasses channeled aviation vibes, while accessories like aviator caps and jewelled brooches added a dandy flair.

Pharrell’s debut fragrance, LVERS, was the olfactory cherry on top. Created with Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, it bottled the essence of sunlight with notes of galbanum, cedarwood, sandalwood, ginger, and bergamot—capturing love, vitality, and the spirit of adventure.

watch the show LOUIS VUITTON Spring/Summer 2025 Men´s Collection by Pharell Williams

Pharrell Williams again crafted an experience—a contemporary musical where fashion, music, and global diversity played in perfect harmony. Louis Vuitton's Spring-Summer 2025 Men’s Collection show was a mind-blowing fusion of our shared journey, meticulously crafted and bursting with passion.

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(c) Louis Vuitton Men´s Collection Spring/Summer 2025

Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 *Fashion Showcase

*New Collections
MFW Spring/Summer 2025
In Milan, Form and Function Run Apace

written Chidozie Obasi

This season’s show brought a poised twist on classic, with a sweet, daring vein in clothes that maintain a dynamic rigour.

MOSCHINO

Individuals, characters, humanity. The second Moschino fashion show designed by creative director Adrian Appiolaza is an expression of the uniqueness of people. Each look, like each person, lives individually and has something of its own to express. The collection is an exploration of sorts: exploring the world and the mind, exploring Moschino.

A passage from the urban chaos of the city to discover paradise in the literal sense and personal freedom.Moschino's characters are explorers moving between different spaces, ideas and ideals, escaping life through escapism. There is something positive - something beautiful - in getting lost, in finding places you never knew existed. Traditional tailoring loses its restrictions and boundaries. It is transformed, deconstructed and then reconstructed.

The rules on how to dress according to Franco Moschino, written on a fax machine featured in the Spring-Summer 1995 collection, are shredded to become a new form of "fur for fun" in a white Tyvek fur. Escaping the city, individuals true to their principles wear clothes that speak of the Italian countryside, the jungle wilderness, and finally a serenity that leads to inner peace. Lost, then found again. Symbols, glimpses and memories from Moschino's archives in an ongoing exchange with Franco's ethos. There are the prints of the 1990s reinterpreted, reworked and loved anew. Daisies, soccer balls, gravy stains left by a pizza, and the Italian flag. Twisted trench coats, lingerie dresses, "assemblages" of garments to create new ones. The "Survival Jacket" from the Spring-Summer 1992 collection is reinterpreted first for urban life, then for the great escape.

see more looks from MOSCHINO SS25

HENRIK VIBSKOV

Henrik Vibskov introduced The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance for SS25, a collection that harmonises the elegance of human empathy with the adaptive genius of the animal kingdom. The outing was inspired by the profound theme of hands; the ultimate symbols of assistance, compassion, and adaptability. The collection is also inspired by the natural world's marvels of adaptation and assistance, mirroring the transformative abilities of the octopus, which can morph its shape and colour to blend seamlessly into its surroundings. Their whole body is a large neural network that creates a web of understanding and feeling, and its many limbs could lend you many hands at the same time.

Let’s embrace the mutability, re-examine our past behaviours and adapt to create actionable goals to improve the future. The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance features fluid silhouettes, morphed patterns, and versatile garments that embody the themes. By dissecting the classic check; a jacquard woven chequered fabric has morphed with ocean motifs, and in a chequered knit the pattern dissolves completely. Hands are represented in prints - little fingers supporting you, chopped factory fingers, analogue gloves. Peace offering messages are hidden in the corners. Grey outline fingers is an exclusively developed textile, with a smock-like crinkle that resembles intertwined fingers, making use of a 30-year-old archive materials from Dutel.

Henrik Vibskov
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) HENRIK VIBSKOV

FENDI

Silvia Venturini Fendi, Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear, considers FENDI as a travelling time capsule mirroring decades and destinations, with Italian craftsmanship as its forever North star. The Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is an homage to the universal – sublimating House codes that predate the first men’s silhouette revealed at FENDI in 1990. Today, that wardrobe’s pillars become sartorial puzzle pieces, activating soft expressions of contemporary masculinity through the lens of modern luxury. Once emblematic of an international elite, the notion of uniforms for work and play are deconstructed and dreamed anew in powdery shades: a mineral palette of sherbet and mist, ivory, caramel and buttermilk mingle with soft blues and natural indigo, black and forest green. Somewhere between sports and ceremony, the idea of the FENDI Club emerges – its crest1 proudly emblazoned like a fantasy coat-of-arms on breast pocket and button.

From head to toe, the collection revels in the virtuosity of the Selleria stitch, a technique passed to the Fendi family by Roman master saddlers in 1925. Scaled up and down, it is re-interpreted as a broken pinstripe suiting jacquard and threaded as a stripe or tonal FF logo through linen and plush textures, applied as a surface on Japanese boro denim, or reduced to a minimalist frame on crisp wool outerwear and leathergoods.

see more looks from FENDI SS25

FENDI
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) FENDI

DSQUARED2

For Spring/Summer 2025, twin creative masterminds Dean and Dan Caten turn up the heat while bringing a renewed sense of focus to their vision of maximal multiplicity for Dsquared2. The brand hones in on a sense of duality - between elegance and edge, softness and strength - but in doing so, creates one of their most unexpected, exciting, and undeniably sexy fashion mashups yet. It is a liberated community of artists, athletes, and aesthetes, an underground milieu that is poetry salon, wrestling league, and kink scene all in one.
As always, the collection’s spirit of freeing multiplicity has its basis in Dean and Dan’s signature penchant for synthesising innovative material treatments and imaginative details with cross-genre references to fringe fashion subcultures. For Spring/Summer 2025, this practice takes shape as a particularly focused intersection of elegance and edge.

Sheer chiffons cascade poetically around the body, but reveal skin-tight bondage harnesses or barely-there bralettes beneath. Denim peels away into sculptural latex. Asymmetrical sheer jersey tanks are treated with laminating techniques, balancing brutalist geometry and soft bodily harmony. Laces coil up legs, holding outer garments together but exposing the skin beneath. Broad-shouldered suits with voluminous pleated pants reference 80s workday ensembles, while leather biker jackets and thick-soled studded creepers suggest that same stylish character’s nocturnal alter ego.
The colour palette, too, embodies a spirit of poetic softness anchored by the strength of desire.

DSQUARED2
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) DSQUARED2

see more looks from DSQUARED2 SS25

MSGM

Lines and horizons that connect archipelagos, Mediterranean perspectives of new routes, both real and imaginary. Painted, printed, woven, they bind summer memories, loves on the sand, afternoon siestas, sponge-like dreams. Turquoise, straw yellow, black, along with classic cream, red, and blue, but also sharp and acidic stripes, sharpen forms and movements. We dress and dream in a nautical style. Colours dripping, hues chasing each other, vibrating with music. Lobster and sideral blue shine on printed linens, colourful zippers become borders of freedom of forms.

Faded, tie-dye dissolves winter melancholies. Dolphins, crabs, and mermaids are games on the sand, stencils or carefree paintings in the warm summer afternoons of our childhood, appearing and disappearing on the textures. We play with clichés, knots become dresses, the sun becomes macramé in a new silhouette. Sailors in love, hinted at, desired, through light gestures and dissolving watercolours by Luke Edward Hall. Origami hats like fragile memories, materialise in jacquards and prints in blue and red. Umbrellas and deckchairs, of a sea that becomes a city, whose stripes transform into substantial waves, details, inlays in ajour memories.

MSGM
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) MSGM

MAGLIANO

This collection is dedicated to those tender and fleeting memories that catch up to us like unexpected storms. Memory turns archeological: reminiscences become fossil traces, analysed simply for what they are. Silhouettes are finally essential, at times gaunt, like in the memories of the 2000s. White, black and the greys in between. Classics are modular thanks to folk or beach-like additions. In the free beach, of Magliano coats are integrated by towels, trousers are swimwear, evening wear. Clothes assume crazy functions, or dysfunctions, as they brush against fantasy. The microscopic is now magnified: creating structure and decorative patterns. The knot, the intersection, the clasp of two allergic things but persistent in coming together.

The extremities of the clothes rattle and muddle: here lies the intrinsic nature of the project that, as usual, prefers the interwoven complexity of the reverse to the clear drawing of the straightforward. Childhood, a puzzle of unlimited limits, is evoked through the cross-stitch. Interpreted like a political medium, it composes strings of google searches, from poetry to porn, fragments of notable identities. Also the Cormio/Magliano embroidered sweaters hold the same weight, everything but naïve, exemplifying the symbol of an unconditional alliance between colleagues. The hero of the season is Pinocchio, a superlative symbol of trans-formation.

MAGLIANO
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) MAGLIANO

Marine Serre SS25 at Pitti Uomo

*New Collection
Marine Serre SS25
A Celebration of Grace and Love

written Chidozie Obasi

Marine Serre embarked on a new journey, as the guest designer of Pitti Uomo 106, bringing the runway and the guests outside of Paris for the first time to Florence, Italy.

A passport cover with the signature airbrushed moon pattern was crafted by the renowned local atelier Cuoio di Toscana. By masking the nationalities of the guests with the invitation, the Maison intends to embrace the idea of “Citizens of the World”, leading to the title of the Show. This collection featured both menswear and womenswear showcasing sartorial luxury affair combined with glamorous femininity and the golden age of Italian cinema, blending craftsmanship and Haute Couture sophistication with a tribute to local savoir-faire. The show was set in the Villa di Maiano, a historical estate built in the 15th century.

This unique venue underscores the collection’s splendour and timeless elegance. Located five kilometres from the centre of Florence, it seems to exist in a peaceful world of its own, immersed in the lush green of the hills overlooking the city.

At sunset, the audience is welcomed by the sound of a live orchestral band, offering a ceremonial atmosphere to the set. The opening piece of the show epitomises the quintessence of the brand, transcending temporal and cultural boundaries to set the tone for the inaugural ensemble: an elevated interpretation of glamour and grace. A dramatic couture crinoline, paired with an artfully crafted top adorned with vintage jewellery, makes a striking statement. Following are two impeccably tailored black men’s suits: a nod to Italian elegance.

A majestic cocktail dress, featuring a contrasting lilac jersey hood drapery and tan mesh patchwork, embodies the signature Marine Serre hybridization approach. Finally, the introductory section culminates with purple glossy leather silhouettes, seamlessly transitioning into the second chapter of the show. Heavily inspired by the golden age of crime fiction in cinema, the following looks offer a fierce and bold reinterpretation of the archetypes. Dominated by a striking black and red palette, the collection features a dynamic mix of sartorial silhouettes and sensuous airbrushed leather, evocative of the late seventies allure. This aesthetic is seamlessly blended with post-industrial attitudes.

MARINE SERRE
SS 2025 Runway
during
PITTI UOMO

A camel version of the airbrushed leather total look heralds a new chapter in this journey through vibrant daily silhouettes, reviving hallmark materials of the brand: upcycled tartan scarves and cotton tote bags, signature silk scarves ingeniously twisted and encased in mesh fabric. Regenerated denim is also reimagined, traversing to the Far West with leather embellishments and culminating in an exquisite couture dress. New regenerated materials also make their debut like this cotton padded comfort poplin pieces and innovative designs crafted from upcycled tennis bags.

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(c) MARINE SERRE during PITTI UOMO 2024