*New Collection
Iris Van Herpen Fall 2024 Couture
Ethereal Avant-Garde
written Amanda Mortenson
In a show that felt more like an immersive art installation, Iris Van Herpen once again shattered the boundaries of fashion with her Fall 2024 Couture Collection. Held during Paris Fashion Week, Van Herpen´s presentation was a blend of avant-garde innovation and ethereal beauty, solidifying her place as a pioneer of the future of fashion.
Iris Van Herpen has once again transcended the traditional boundaries of fashion with her Fall 2024 Couture show. Eschewing the typical runway show, Van Herpen’s presentation, titled “Ethereal Genesis,” transformed models into living sculptures suspended against impasto-covered canvases. The effect was mesmerizing, as the models’ slow, deliberate movements conjured an ethereal dance of life and art.
Set within a gallery-like space, the presentation showcased nine works, each a testament to Van Herpen’s innovative approach to Haute Couture. Five of these were gowns, blending technology and craftsmanship in a way that only Van Herpen can. Models appeared to emerge from the canvases, stabilized by protruding shoes, moving with a grace that mimicked natural phenomena.
The pieces themselves were a marvel of design and execution. One gown featured rhythmic bursts of pearls, while another boasted a transparent, filigreed structure molded by a heat gun into glass-infused organza. The intricate patterns of constructed lace fused seamlessly with floaty silk, creating a dreamlike effect that captivated all the audience. A bronzed dress reimagined the traditional kimono, its intricate pleats and folds adding a sculptural dimension to the ensemble. Simply fantastic!
Van Herpen’s foray into pure artistic expression was evident in the remaining four works, not shown here. These pieces utilized filmy scrims adorned with solid oil paint fragments, airy draped tulle, and hand-pleated silk, creating a dynamic interplay between solid and ethereal elements. Her exploration of the duality of sculpture and dance, static and animated, was further emphasized by a soundscape composed by her partner, Salvador Breed.
The entire presentation was an invitation to linger and absorb the details, a stark contrast to the fleeting moments of a runway show. Van Herpen’s desire to capture time and allow the audience to find their own rhythm with her work was palpable. The experience was transportive, each piece a testament to months, even years, of meticulous work.
IRIS VAN HERPEN
Couture, Fall 2024
during
PARIS FASHION WEEK
In the end, as the models made their exit and the canvases stood empty save for the embedded shoes, Van Herpen’s suspended tulle sculptures remained. These ineffable variations on a self-portrait left an indelible mark, a reminder of the infinite possibilities when fashion and art collide.
all images
(c) IRIS VAN HERPEN, Couture Fall 2024 Show