*New Collections
MFW Spring/Summer 2025
In Milan, Form and Function Run Apace
written Chidozie Obasi
This season’s show brought a poised twist on classic, with a sweet, daring vein in clothes that maintain a dynamic rigour.
MOSCHINO
Individuals, characters, humanity. The second Moschino fashion show designed by creative director Adrian Appiolaza is an expression of the uniqueness of people. Each look, like each person, lives individually and has something of its own to express. The collection is an exploration of sorts: exploring the world and the mind, exploring Moschino.
A passage from the urban chaos of the city to discover paradise in the literal sense and personal freedom.Moschino's characters are explorers moving between different spaces, ideas and ideals, escaping life through escapism. There is something positive - something beautiful - in getting lost, in finding places you never knew existed. Traditional tailoring loses its restrictions and boundaries. It is transformed, deconstructed and then reconstructed.
The rules on how to dress according to Franco Moschino, written on a fax machine featured in the Spring-Summer 1995 collection, are shredded to become a new form of "fur for fun" in a white Tyvek fur. Escaping the city, individuals true to their principles wear clothes that speak of the Italian countryside, the jungle wilderness, and finally a serenity that leads to inner peace. Lost, then found again. Symbols, glimpses and memories from Moschino's archives in an ongoing exchange with Franco's ethos. There are the prints of the 1990s reinterpreted, reworked and loved anew. Daisies, soccer balls, gravy stains left by a pizza, and the Italian flag. Twisted trench coats, lingerie dresses, "assemblages" of garments to create new ones. The "Survival Jacket" from the Spring-Summer 1992 collection is reinterpreted first for urban life, then for the great escape.
see more looks from MOSCHINO SS25
HENRIK VIBSKOV
Henrik Vibskov introduced The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance for SS25, a collection that harmonises the elegance of human empathy with the adaptive genius of the animal kingdom. The outing was inspired by the profound theme of hands; the ultimate symbols of assistance, compassion, and adaptability. The collection is also inspired by the natural world's marvels of adaptation and assistance, mirroring the transformative abilities of the octopus, which can morph its shape and colour to blend seamlessly into its surroundings. Their whole body is a large neural network that creates a web of understanding and feeling, and its many limbs could lend you many hands at the same time.
Let’s embrace the mutability, re-examine our past behaviours and adapt to create actionable goals to improve the future. The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance features fluid silhouettes, morphed patterns, and versatile garments that embody the themes. By dissecting the classic check; a jacquard woven chequered fabric has morphed with ocean motifs, and in a chequered knit the pattern dissolves completely. Hands are represented in prints - little fingers supporting you, chopped factory fingers, analogue gloves. Peace offering messages are hidden in the corners. Grey outline fingers is an exclusively developed textile, with a smock-like crinkle that resembles intertwined fingers, making use of a 30-year-old archive materials from Dutel.
Henrik Vibskov
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) HENRIK VIBSKOV
FENDI
Silvia Venturini Fendi, Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear, considers FENDI as a travelling time capsule mirroring decades and destinations, with Italian craftsmanship as its forever North star. The Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is an homage to the universal – sublimating House codes that predate the first men’s silhouette revealed at FENDI in 1990. Today, that wardrobe’s pillars become sartorial puzzle pieces, activating soft expressions of contemporary masculinity through the lens of modern luxury. Once emblematic of an international elite, the notion of uniforms for work and play are deconstructed and dreamed anew in powdery shades: a mineral palette of sherbet and mist, ivory, caramel and buttermilk mingle with soft blues and natural indigo, black and forest green. Somewhere between sports and ceremony, the idea of the FENDI Club emerges – its crest1 proudly emblazoned like a fantasy coat-of-arms on breast pocket and button.
From head to toe, the collection revels in the virtuosity of the Selleria stitch, a technique passed to the Fendi family by Roman master saddlers in 1925. Scaled up and down, it is re-interpreted as a broken pinstripe suiting jacquard and threaded as a stripe or tonal FF logo through linen and plush textures, applied as a surface on Japanese boro denim, or reduced to a minimalist frame on crisp wool outerwear and leathergoods.
see more looks from FENDI SS25
FENDI
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) FENDI
DSQUARED2
For Spring/Summer 2025, twin creative masterminds Dean and Dan Caten turn up the heat while bringing a renewed sense of focus to their vision of maximal multiplicity for Dsquared2. The brand hones in on a sense of duality - between elegance and edge, softness and strength - but in doing so, creates one of their most unexpected, exciting, and undeniably sexy fashion mashups yet. It is a liberated community of artists, athletes, and aesthetes, an underground milieu that is poetry salon, wrestling league, and kink scene all in one.
As always, the collection’s spirit of freeing multiplicity has its basis in Dean and Dan’s signature penchant for synthesising innovative material treatments and imaginative details with cross-genre references to fringe fashion subcultures. For Spring/Summer 2025, this practice takes shape as a particularly focused intersection of elegance and edge.
Sheer chiffons cascade poetically around the body, but reveal skin-tight bondage harnesses or barely-there bralettes beneath. Denim peels away into sculptural latex. Asymmetrical sheer jersey tanks are treated with laminating techniques, balancing brutalist geometry and soft bodily harmony. Laces coil up legs, holding outer garments together but exposing the skin beneath. Broad-shouldered suits with voluminous pleated pants reference 80s workday ensembles, while leather biker jackets and thick-soled studded creepers suggest that same stylish character’s nocturnal alter ego.
The colour palette, too, embodies a spirit of poetic softness anchored by the strength of desire.
DSQUARED2
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) DSQUARED2
see more looks from DSQUARED2 SS25
MSGM
Lines and horizons that connect archipelagos, Mediterranean perspectives of new routes, both real and imaginary. Painted, printed, woven, they bind summer memories, loves on the sand, afternoon siestas, sponge-like dreams. Turquoise, straw yellow, black, along with classic cream, red, and blue, but also sharp and acidic stripes, sharpen forms and movements. We dress and dream in a nautical style. Colours dripping, hues chasing each other, vibrating with music. Lobster and sideral blue shine on printed linens, colourful zippers become borders of freedom of forms.
Faded, tie-dye dissolves winter melancholies. Dolphins, crabs, and mermaids are games on the sand, stencils or carefree paintings in the warm summer afternoons of our childhood, appearing and disappearing on the textures. We play with clichés, knots become dresses, the sun becomes macramé in a new silhouette. Sailors in love, hinted at, desired, through light gestures and dissolving watercolours by Luke Edward Hall. Origami hats like fragile memories, materialise in jacquards and prints in blue and red. Umbrellas and deckchairs, of a sea that becomes a city, whose stripes transform into substantial waves, details, inlays in ajour memories.
MSGM
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) MSGM
MAGLIANO
This collection is dedicated to those tender and fleeting memories that catch up to us like unexpected storms. Memory turns archeological: reminiscences become fossil traces, analysed simply for what they are. Silhouettes are finally essential, at times gaunt, like in the memories of the 2000s. White, black and the greys in between. Classics are modular thanks to folk or beach-like additions. In the free beach, of Magliano coats are integrated by towels, trousers are swimwear, evening wear. Clothes assume crazy functions, or dysfunctions, as they brush against fantasy. The microscopic is now magnified: creating structure and decorative patterns. The knot, the intersection, the clasp of two allergic things but persistent in coming together.
The extremities of the clothes rattle and muddle: here lies the intrinsic nature of the project that, as usual, prefers the interwoven complexity of the reverse to the clear drawing of the straightforward. Childhood, a puzzle of unlimited limits, is evoked through the cross-stitch. Interpreted like a political medium, it composes strings of google searches, from poetry to porn, fragments of notable identities. Also the Cormio/Magliano embroidered sweaters hold the same weight, everything but naïve, exemplifying the symbol of an unconditional alliance between colleagues. The hero of the season is Pinocchio, a superlative symbol of trans-formation.
MAGLIANO
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) MAGLIANO
