*New Collection
ISSEY MIYAKE SS 2024 Vision
Embracing the Ethereal
written Sarah Arendts
Floating ethereally through the famed halls of Césure in Paris, ISSEY MIYAKE’s SPRING SUMMER 2024 COLLECTION, Grasping the Formless, unveiled a powerful manifesto of fashion's limitless potential.
The concept? To epitomize intangible elements from nature - the enigmatic wind and capricious light - and mold them into wearable pieces that almost breathe with life.
Driven by the ethereal, Miyake’s new aesthetic engages deeply with fluidity, eschewing the traditional rigidity of couture. The line evokes a feeling, a presence, a connection with nature, and most strikingly, an understanding between fabric and wearer. It’s less about creating a statement and more about discovering oneself through the very clothes you adorn.
Upon entering Césure, the audience was immediately transfixed by an intricate installation conceptualized by Yoshihisa Tanaka. Pleated fragments of washi paper – crafted from organic fibers – hung suspended in mid-air, moving and contorting, symbolizing the delicate dance between cloth and its wearer. As ICTUS's haunting score resonated through the venue, performers seamlessly wove through the installation, embodying the relationship between humanity, clothing, and nature, choreographed to perfection by Némo Flouret.
In the stunning display that was ISSEY MIYAKE’s collection, several series emerged, each illuminating a unique facet of Miyake's genius. AMBIGUOUS, a sophisticated knit series, tantalizingly played between concealment and revelation. It presented soft drapes juxtaposed with form-hugging ribbed back panels, all the while respecting the silhouette and the integrity of the high twist cotton yarn. Next, we were led to imagine a flag pirouetting in the sky with TWINING. This woven series epitomized lightness and structure, employing a weaving technique that left nearly invisible gaps, giving birth to a voluminous texture that still retained an ethereal weightlessness. Then came LIGHT LEAK, a striking print series. Deliberate film exposures morphed into minimalist silhouette designs, with the micro particulars of the original photographs ever-present, each print standing as a faithful homage to its origin. The essence of adaptability was beautifully captured in ENVELOPING and TWISTED.
Woven meticulously with blends of Japanese washi paper, these pieces moved gracefully with the wearer, crafting bespoke silhouettes and textures reminiscent of a second skin. FIXED IN TIME made a statement, presenting motion as though it was trapped in a timeless vortex. The bold silhouettes, adorned with folds and angles, appeared as if they were frozen mid-twirl, a feat achieved using lightweight, stretchy materials that showcased the undeniable power of dynamics. The parade of innovation culminated with SHAPED MEMBRANE. This series, a veritable celebration of texture and form, boasted exaggerated silhouettes. Merging volume with unrivaled comfort, it was clear that every piece was designed to be a joy to wear.
ISSEY MIYAKE
Spring Summer 2024 Runway Installation
Paris Fashion Week
he grand finale was the unveiling of a footwear collaboration with New Balance – the ISSEY MIYAKE x New Balance MT10O, staying true to the "barefoot mobility" concept. Its color palette, mirroring the collection's theme, with the signature lightweight and barefoot feel, was a fitting ode to Satoshi Kondo’s design genius.
Issey Miyake’s SS 2024 is about connecting with the world, understanding the formless, and giving it form. Fashion, when done right, is not just art; it’s a transcendent experience.
all images
Runway and Show Images (c) Issey Miyake