As an established name in the fashion industry, there’s always a big risk of failing to meet expectations, resulting in unoriginal or uninspiring designs. But the worst of all is becoming a cliché.

JW ANDERSON

Jonathan Anderson's shows are always a blend of intricate construction and boundless creativity, presenting fashion-forward statement pieces that captivate audiences. His SS24 collection was no exception. Drawing inspiration from his playful imagination, Anderson showcased designs featuring sculptural silhouettes, a hallmark of his style. What set this collection apart was his innovative use of plasticine as a material. The debut ensemble, a grey hoodie paired with shorts, was sculpted onto the model, casting dynamic shadows and contrasts reminiscent of fluid apparel. This was followed by designs in vibrant tangerine/silver and midnight blue. The subsequent pieces evoked the essence of high-fashion DIY, with cargo pants billowing at the ankles and bomber jackets enlarged to dramatic proportions, adorned with feathers ready to burst. Padded vinyl ensembles seemed to dance like wind-filled balloons, displayed in vivid shades of yellow, orange, and cerulean. Anderson's line also featured decadent dresses, draped and knotted asymmetrically. And, making its anticipated return, the Bumper Bag was unveiled in a range of hues, accompanied by the season's trending accessory, the knitted moccasin.

PAUL COSTELLOE

Renowned for his form and textile expertise, Paul Costelloe made a grand entrance as he officially opened London’s Fashion Week. His latest collection, inspired by a tranquil family afternoon in Ferrara, Italy, was nothing short of enchanting. Though the catwalk was set in the heart of London, the evocative strains of classical Italian music that played in the background effortlessly transported the audience to the idyllic gardens of an Italian villa. Titled 'Il Giardino,' the collection stood as a testament to romance, boasting a blend of dresses, unstructured jackets, and vibrant prints. The initial pieces showcased models gracefully walking down the runway in tennis-themed attire, complete with matching croquet mallets. The collection's stars were undoubtedly the suits, ranging from oversized pinstriped designs to laid-back two-piece sets, all adorned in soothing shades of ecru, sand, and pale blues. Diverging from the playful spirit of the suits, Costelloe unveiled a selection of flowing gowns and mini dresses for the evening. Each piece was intricately decorated with floral prints and patterns, echoing the mesmerizing colors of Italian sunsets.

SIMONE ROCHA

Simone Rocha's SS24 collection at the Mulryan Centre for Dance evoked the ethereal ambiance of a wedding, but intriguingly, sans the bride and groom. Aptly titled 'Dress Rehearsal,' the show was a theatrical portrayal of emotions swirling before matrimony. Models adorned in delicate hues and contrasting blacks meandered around a chapel-like white wooden structure. The collection's focal elements were unmistakably roses, sheer fabrics, and ribbons. A standout pink nylon ensemble was adorned with a cascade of roses, trailing ribbons in its wake. This was quickly followed by a diaphanous piece, under which bouquets of roses were subtly sewn. Drawing direct inspiration from weddings, some designs featured long white gowns reminiscent of wedding cake tiers, paired intriguingly with cake-bag accessories. The collection took a dramatic turn with lace-trimmed motorbike jackets and pearl-embellished suits. Yet, what truly made waves online was Rocha's unexpected alliance with Crocs, resulting in a pearl-encrusted rendition of the famed utilitarian footwear.

AHLUWALIA

Taking inspiration from a plethora of overlooked figures in the creative industry, Priya Ahluwalia's SS24 collection finds a fitting backdrop in London's British Library, a temple of knowledge and forgotten tales. Ahluwalia's pieces echo the legacies of icons like Bollywood's Madhubala, LGBTQIA+ pioneer Marsha P. Johnson, and the mesmerizing Algerian artist Baya Mahieddine. The collection's soundscape honored unsung musical heroes such as Valaida Snow, Sissieretta Jones, and the blues maestro, Robert Johnson. The designs play with perspective and optical illusions, featuring diverse techniques from knitwear to tonal jacquard. Ahluwalia's vibrant array of zebra prints, floral motifs, and her signature denim made with 60% recycled materials, presents a rich tapestry of colors – greens, tans, and blues harmoniously fuse across mini dresses and print shirts. But it's the accessories that truly captivate. The floral-embellished cowboy boots, poised to be summer's top trend, and the intriguing tiny cut-out mirrors, reflect Ahluwalia's knack for the unexpected.

BURBERRY

In his third show for the iconic British house, Daniel Lee proved the adage true: all good things indeed come in threes. Taking over Highbury Fields, Burberry set up a spacious tent, stirring anticipation not just on social media but also with an unexpected underground takeover. Iconically, Bond Street morphed into 'Burberry Street,' with its red and purple hues giving way to Burberry's signature knight blue. This collection stands as a modern homage to British country culture, akin to a stylish city walk through a park. Lee drew inspiration from the quintessential English country garden, resulting in a spectrum of practical silhouettes adorned with jewellery prints, and vibrant floral and fruity motifs. The classic Burberry trench made a distinctive appearance in various avant-garde forms: inside-out capes, gracefully draped trains, and chic overcoats. The contrast of sharply-tailored suits in shades of beige, forest green, and dark blue was softened by airy print column dresses and embroidered halter-neck tops peppered with delicate black and blue strawberries. Accessories, in their oversized glory and adorned with Lee’s signature knight blue, were a testament to his meticulous attention to detail.

The pulse of innovation and unrestrained creativity that New Gen designers bring to London's Fashion Week is truly unparalleled.

CHET LO

Asian-American designer Chet Lo showcased a collection exploring unrepresented sexual identity in Asian cultures at London’s Fashion Week. Hosted at the Old Selfridges Hotel, the venue was bathed in red light. The designs reflected Chinese and Japanese art, with erotic undertones and the use of Japanese Shibari ropes. Lo's iconic knitwear made a notable appearance, with the color palette boasting electric blues, reds, light greens, and whites.

DREAMING ELI

DREAMING ELI’s SS24 collection was revealed in London’s Charterhouse complex, emphasizing female emancipation from patriarchal oppression. Elisa Trombatore, the brand's creator, envisions the DREAMING ELI woman as a Victorian vampire. The collection transitioned from soft hues to intense blood reds, culminating in a standout white satin dress reminiscent of a wedding gown.

JENN LEE

Jenn Lee’s digital-centric SS24 collection celebrated the joy and innocence of childhood. Screens around the set showcased the digital design process. The collection resonated with a 90s art studio vibe, featuring a bold palette of yellows, reds, and neutrals. Digital motifs and tech-inspired accessories, paired with grunge elements, defined the collection.

KAY KWOK

Kay Kwok’s genderless SS24 collection blended spirituality and technology. Incorporating Buddhist symbols and cosmos-inspired graphics, the collection sported an interstellar vibe. Signature metal arms in various Buddhist mudras added an exotic touch, while accessories provided a street-wear feel.

MARRKNULL

Held in Camden's industrial area, MARRKNULL's SS24 collection themed 'Get Off Work' revolved around freedom from workplace confines. The designs featured a mix of street-wear elements, notably denim in various forms. Accessories, especially the denim and leather handbags and a range of footwear in collaboration with DAPHNE.LAB, tied the collection together.

MITHRIDATE

MITHRIDATE’s collection celebrated East Asian culture and was displayed at St Cyprian’s Church. Garments ranged from lightweight layered dresses to denim outfits, all unified with pastel handbags and light jade accessories. Sustainability was a highlight, with the materials predominantly being organic silk, cotton, and linen.

The forward march of diversity and representation in Berlin continues in undaunted unison under the all-inclusive umbrella of Fashion Council Germany and its wealth of brands which, season after season, step forth with innovation and pioneering spirits.

BOBKOVA

For Spring, Kristina Bobkova continues to explore her Ukrainian origins and the intersection between her roots and the world stage—she is, after all, amid the few Ukrainian luxury designers on the international world stage. “This collection was devoted to Ukrainian gardens; The mallow flower is a symbol of Ukrainian defence against the enemy, and I wanted to emphasise that because Bobkova speaks of peace, reason why the Spring collection draws inspiration from a magical garden, filled with flowers, freshness, and lightness,” opins the designer before her show. “In the new collection, there’s recycled accessories, bags, and shoes, dress tops made from production waste—yarn, silk ribbons, ribbons and knitwear—while paying homage to Ukrainian porcelain traditions. Earrings, pendants, necklaces, and glasses decorations are delicately crafted from the finest porcelain, with gold plating.” Closer to our times, the designer has become taken with strength-boosting works in the feminine literary current, as such tales lay at the core of the Bobkova brand. Fashion-wise, that translated into masculine suits with oversized shoulders, paired with wide-legged or fitted trousers, providing essential comfort for modern women. The designer has bigger plans in the works. She’s not ready to go into details, but Spring made for a modern line up with a cool visual appeal. Ukraine to Paris with a detour in Berlin feels like a pretty interesting itinerary.

LITKOVSKA

In a season rife with gender ambiguity, Litkovska’s lineup subtly shook up masculine volumes for a clean-cut proposal of femininity. Perhaps it’s the temper of these turbulent times that allowed the designer’s oeuvre to play out like an awakening of sorts; but this isn’t so difficult when clothes are lovely and easy to wear. Put simply, elegance and beauty were present amid the neutral rigour, creating timeless pieces and moods that can become part of modern life while nurturing content over form. The collection also gathered a genderless appeal: for men, there’s a chalk grey blazer with just a hint of a stretch, so it’s comfy and casual enough to sport year-round. Litkovska’s aesthetic is largely her own, and the collection she showed left out the whirl of trends and fads. Lining up against a muted backdrop of industrial settings at Kraftwerk Berlin, clothes gained a sartorial severity that turned softer as the show progressed. But assumptions aside, tailoring is by far the brand’s most compelling Lingua Franca, raising a glass in the name of poise and old-school glamour. Cheers to that.

On inspirations, Fan noted that this collection “was about making a celebratory proposal by implementing a rich palette, while comprising a lot of brocades, virgin wools and very classic traditional tailoring fabrics.” The most compelling procession of clothes seen at Berlin’s Gropius Bau offered wardrobe foundations that are refreshingly accessible, emphasising a minimal spirit with a twist.

MARKE

MARKE’s Spring proposition of menswear required a certain degree of disbelief. It wasn’t irony— not by long shot—that the brand called the Spring show “a poignant love letter to childhood reflections.” Not even when it included drop-crotch denim pants teamed with cotton silk jacquards. MARKE is too generous to stint for the sake of a theme, but the elevation of ease found great expression in this season’s fuss-free, cartoonish heart. The best looks in the collection managed to synthesise Keine’s thought-provoking brew of influences, like the modest white elongated vest that was gathered in gentle volumes at the hip and paired with loose outerwear. “This collection deals with loosing up the brutality of normality,” notes MARKE’s Creative Director Mario Keine, explaining that “such stiffness is broken up by airy viewpoints.” This collection was a crisp, well-balanced mix of versatile clothes for a man’s wardrobe. And if Keine continues in this poised direction, he’s sure to expand on his steady growing business.

MILK OF LIME

In a season of this much industry-driven shifts, it’s certainly no mean feat to break out and become the next big hit. The result is that, with an increasingly commonplace pace, designers are tasked with creating stories (read: old) threads into pioneering visions. But for Milk of Lime’s Julia Ballardt and Nico Verhaegen, crafting garments for next Spring was a simply straight-to-the-point affair: reinterpreting the classics through natural fibres, unfolding their “loneliness”—a pulsating thread weaved across the lineup staged at the Zeiss Major Planetarium, as both creatives come from the countryside—and bringing forth a spectrum of neutrals that brought novelty to the surface textile treatments. Rounded shoulders, undulating necklines and flounced hemlines were the type of go-to details that felt fresh and contemporary, in line with the subtly provocative undertone punctuated by see-through garments. Silhouettes were sheer-yet-see-through enough to defy all manner of basics: because unlike other artistic minds on a hot pursuit to contend with the archives, this alumnus of Givenchy has considerable freedom to define his identity without the pressure of historical underpinnings.

LUCAS MEYER LECLERE

“Fashion shows bore me to death,” blithely exclaimed Lucas Meyer-Leclère before his Spring show, who seems to be at his best when he’s sending out easy pieces with just enough fashion edge, like a noir-tinged boxy blazer with bold fastenings or a quasi-Victorian maxi, laminated dress in a delicate hue tint. Often clothes spoke for themselves without all the inner-dialogue narratives of the present times. Leclère’s shapes are vertical—as a former protégé of Karl Lagerfeld, there’s a sense of rigour amid the frenzy craze of his craft. Whether it’s a flow-length coat dress or a generously scaled topper, in a way, this season’s proposal was more ambitious—albeit freewheeling—compared to previous seasons, since he had no form to follow. “Fashion is fun! And I wanted to have fun by merging the synergies of Berlin and Paris in one accord,” notes Leclère. While the tricky styling— and show staging, which comprised a sweet concoction of live poetry and creative performances— on the runway left some looks feeling overcomplicated, the simple, stylish nature of Leclère’s pieces were contrasted with lots of volume and prints, the latter of which overwhelmed models here and there. But there were some exquisite flesh-coloured gowns, smothered in bright brushstrokes, which will no doubt turn up on the red carpet. The collection had an oddly wacky feel, especially for a couturier who, season after season, transitions to a new, flamboyant eclecticism insiders seems to covet.

SF1OG

Spring found many designers rejecting “heritage” (a buzzword of the early naughties) for a more freewheeling approach. But not Rosa Marga Dahl—the trailblazing designer helming SF1OG— who’s sticking with the winsome, functional-like hook she’s established at the brand.

Her Spring show took a classical spin at first—credit the brilliant German-Armenian composer, Meredi, whose poignant melodies delighted throngs of editors within the walls of the Ludwig Erhard House in Berlin, a sanctuary that once housed the city‘s stock exchange. She describes her Spring proposals as “a journey that means something on the emotional level,” explaining that “this season, the connection with the natural world was meaningful because of the elegance portrayed within the equestrian dimension, and how such childhood passion was important to translate into garments.” In Berlin, SF1OG’s clothes have won fans at the most rarified levels of fashion—from underground settings to sky-high kinds. This collection is characterised by the same obsessive attention to detail: the costume made textures, the artisanal know-how and a rough, gloom-like edge enough to fill a whole textbook with references.

As for references, can one ever have enough? “There’s lightness with a hint of dark, punctuated by the usage of silk linen and century-old drapes,” notes Dahl. A compelling lightness, indeed. By culling inspirations from the emotional and the personal spectrum of her practice, what was appealing about this equestrian-laced collection is that it didn’t feel like the equestrian-laced collections many designers in the contemporary market have been doing for years. The body-hugging toppers with cinched waists looked modern, styled with knee-high footwear, marking Dahl’s prowess in technicality that brings freshness to the tiresome whirl of nostalgia. Clearly, it’s refreshing to see SF1OG evolving at a steady, smart pace.

The Armenian cultural moodboard is a compelling canvas to behold. Indeed, the country’s rich heritage has widespread history across Asia—not to mention the breathtaking landscape, such as the Canyon, nestled within the Dashtakar village—and it’s paired with a fashion scene that is slowly placing its foot on the global lifestyle scene.

But there’s more to the story. Unlike other fashion weeks, where a commercial through-line is increasingly commonplace, designers re-evaluated the purposefulness of garments by putting a fresh spin on their creative practice. Z.G.EST’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was one such example: known for its sustainable ethos and design, the brand’s latest collection presented an unwavering fondness for upcycling techniques by comprising versatile, modular pieces from biodegradable cotton.

Here, the beauty of contrasts rules supreme: key influences encompassed human-crafted architectural forms and the inherent imperfections found in nature, punctuating a dialogue that speaks volumes on dualism. Further references present were those linked to childhood memories, explored by Syrian-born, Armenia-hailed designer Hagop Shahinian, who took his early years to devise cheerful garments, bestowing a feel of innocence, pain and delight.

This collection was a therapy I needed for a long time,” says Shahinian, the designer at the helm of HGP who detailed the way his poignant collection brought forth bitter memories of his homeland. Downturns aside, clothes held a joyful aura: garments were more straightforward than the complexity of the times he lived in, but it didn’t mean they were weakened because of such. Men’s outerwear were truly strong offerings; reflecting, maybe, easier and less fuss is key in extreme times. At the end of the day, it was engaging to see leisurewear that tampered in ways of premium staples, while still coming across as hero pieces. But in the case of references, could you ever have enough?

All in all, while she may have chosen classic lines, clearly she likes an intricate detail, raising a glass in the name of a modern, here-and-now feel. Cheers to that.

Simplicity Is Complexity Resolved is a quote from Constantin Brancusi, and it's also the conceptual framework of Valentino Haute Couture's Fall/Winter 2023-24 show.

This metamorphosis also unravels on the runway, where Valentino's collection champions the ethos of Couture - the craft, the expertise, and the power of the unique individual. This philosophy manifests in garments that mirror contemporary realities, sartorial renditions reflecting modern sensibilities through a minimalistic approach that amplifies meaning.

These simplified yet significant pieces flow seamlessly with the body, their streamlined forms and minimalist seams embodying an elegant, precise focus. The collection infuses past ideals with present attitudes, lighting up fabrics, abstracting decorative memories, and presenting a surreal imitation of the baroque. The clothes embody a sense of paused motion, offering a moment for reflection and admiration.

Humanity, often on the periphery, takes center stage in Piccioli's vision. Garments express individual emotions and human feelings with instinctive spontaneity. Everyday items gain importance, with t-shirts becoming ballgowns, vintage Levi’s® 501 XX Big E jeans transformed into canvases for gilded embroidery.

This Valentino collection ventures into the dynamic interplay between environment and people, transforming "Un Château" into a conduit for idea amplification, an open, inclusive space that resonates with everyone.

credits
all images (c) Valentino, 2023

„The brand is gone but the community has stayed with me and is ready to explore the unknown waters with me.”

Returning to his roots in Poland, while maintaining his ties to Los Angeles, Pustul’s new brand promises responsible luxury, celebrating minimalism and quality over quantity. His pre-launch campaign, "I BELIEVE IN MARCELL," is a tribute to the unwavering support of his community, and a window into Pustul's personal healing journey.

Pustul's upcoming debut at next year's New York Fashion Week is already sending ripples of anticipation through the industry. To delve deeper into his transformative journey, his new brand, and what the future holds, we sat down for an exclusive interview with the visionary himself. Read on as Marcell Pustul invites us into his daring new world of fashion.

.designer talk
Marcell Pustul
speaks with
Alban E. Smajli

Alban E. Smajli //
MARCELL, YOU'VE TRANSITIONED FROM YOUR SUCCESSFUL MARCELL VON BERLIN BRAND TO THE LAUNCH OF YOUR LATEST VENTURE, MARCELL_. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR GREATEST LEARNING FROM THIS TRANSITION?
Marcell Pustul //
The greatest learning for me was to always make sure I keep the control of my own brand, and don't let others control it. I had given away 70% of MARCELL VON BERLIN, and this was a big mistake. However, I was just a young dreamer unable of seeing big picture. Suddenly, out of nowhere I have received an offer, sounded like an amazing opportunity, real game changer so I’ve taken it and it was my mistake to agree to give that much away. Definitely a huge learning for me. Also, the community and fan base is so important to me now, I learned it in the process of healing and rebuilding, without them I wouldn’t be where I am now. The brand is gone but the community has stayed with me and is ready to explore the unknown waters with me. Of course not everyone stayed, but this situation also showed me the value of real relationships, not those only based on power and money. My social circle has been limited significantly. Some people just disappeared, some I’ve had to cut to clean the space.

THE "I BELIEVE IN MARCELL" CAMPAIGN IS SUCH A POWERFUL MESSAGE OF COMMUNITY. HOW HAS THE CAMPAIGN HELPED SHAPE THE IDENTITY OF YOUR NEW BRAND?
I wanted to show that not only fashion matters, but real value lays in the people identifying personally with your vision. You create not only for the matter of art. You create for the people allocating trust in your products, the trust that you will help them to express themselves. It comes with responsibility, at least for me. Therefore, my new brand will be about and for the community, as they make you who you are. I would love to give a chance to others to express through my pieces, to open the brand to the evolution and influence of others. Let’s use it as a canvas and fill it with the emotions and ideas. 

The campaign itself is rather a result of my healing process. We were discussing one day with Pat, new Brand Director how to create the campaign out of nothing before the launch of the new Brand. It was literally nothing — we had almost no budget, almost no clothes, only good energy and friends we could call and convince if they would like to contribute. The idea appeared kind of naturally and you know what, production without money is actually less stressful and more fluid. No expectations, pure freedom and that is why results are so beautiful and natural. We portrayed the community as it is — without big styling and make ups. 

AS YOU'VE MOVED TOWARD A FOCUS ON NATURE, QUALITY, AND MINIMALISM, CAN YOU SHARE WHAT DESIGN PRINCIPLES YOU KEEP AT THE FOREFRONT OF YOUR WORK?
I will definitely focus on the quality, durability and more minimalistic approach. Bestselling suits are coming back perfected, more sophisticated and with new colorways. I will definitely explore further tailoring as a solid base of our wardrobe. We are adding some inclusive bodycon dresses, western boots in new shapes, and working on a new bag design and first sunglasses line. 

What is extremely important to me know now is to avoid an overproduction therefore we will produce less and react to demand. Also, the idea of seasonlessness will stay as principle. We would love to introduce new innovative shapes and be able to re-imagine them with seasons by adding new colorways and fabrics. With the new brand you will not find a lot of prints. Less is more now. 

YOU'VE EMPHASIZED THE IMPORTANCE OF YOUR SUPPORTERS AND COMMUNITY THROUGHOUT YOUR BRAND. HOW DO YOU SEE THIS COLLECTIVE GROUP'S ROLE EVOLVING IN THE FUTURE OF MARCELL_?
So many of my supporters are people from the creative industry and most of them worked with me when I was building MVB, we became friends therefore they decided to help me in this very difficult time. I listen to their feedback and take all important critics to make sure the new brand will be better and more in line with real needs of customers. 

THE IDEA OF T-SHIRTS REFLECTING YOUR INTERNAL JOURNEY OF HEALING IS QUITE STRIKING. COULD YOU DELVE DEEPER INTO THIS CONCEPT?
When my business partner suddenly passed away, I was standing in front of the choice: to just give up or get a job at another brand or to stand up and fight for my future and immediately start over again. I was lucky enough to meet my Life Coach Vivace Maxvictor, who changed my life and point of view, and instead of being a victim I’ve programmed myself to be the winner in this situation. 

And then the idea of t-shirts was born, it's kind of personal cleansing from the past, because it is crucial to not to look back when you are in the process of rebuilding and healing. You have to summarise the past and draw conclusions but don’t stay there too long. So I’ve sort of written messages on t-shirts for myself. By sharing them with the wider audience (you can get one here) I want share with the others the power to be brave and never give up. 

AS YOU DEBUT YOUR COLLECTION NEXT YEAR AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK, WHAT EMOTIONS OR IMPRESSIONS DO YOU HOPE TO EVOKE FROM ATTENDEES?
I want people who will be part of the show to see the strength and the power I have to recreate and reborn. And it will be my promise that I will never stop doing this. With a tragedy in the background, I have received the most meaningful messages from my spirits. The first show will be a very simple venue, and will be the final cleansing of the past and the first big step to a brighter future. I can't say too much as I want to surprise. But definitely this will be an immersion in love, hope and joy. 

YOU'VE APPOINTED PATRYCJA SZKLARCZYK AS THE NEW BRAND DIRECTOR. HOW IS THIS COLLABORATION SHAPING THE FUTURE OF MARCELL_?
Patrycja was already working for my previous brand as a Business Development Director. She has a wide experience in the industry and represents this rare kind of people with 360 approach and taking everything with an open mind, as I do — always ready to roll the sleeves and do whatever is needed to be done, also quickly adapting to the dynamically changing reality of the fashion industry. After I lost my company, I was still in touch with Pat, and she has been helping me with a new brand building process. I’ve decided to offer her the Brand Director position as she is not only one of my biggest supporters but also understands me and my vision. She has a fantastic taste herself and very often strong opinion, but knows how the industry works and always offers solutions. I really appreciate the sense of freedom while working together, she gives me the space to be who I am as an artist, great human with a beautiful soul. Our goal is to be the next big brand built on solid and good values, I couldn't make it without her. 

YOUR MOVE BACK TO POLAND TO SET UP AN ATELIER AND DESIGN STUDIO IS A SIGNIFICANT SHIFT. WHAT IMPACT HAS THIS CHANGE OF SCENERY HAD ON YOUR CREATIVE PROCESS?
The decision was kind of natural move as first and foremost - I am Polish :) And I’ve been already producing most of my samples and small productions in Poland. Only shoes and bags are made in Italy. Patrycja is part time in Poland, my Pattern Making Manager and her team are based there too. Nowadays you can do everything over zoom calls, emails and I’ve learned to work this way during pandemic when I got stuck in Los Angeles for almost two years. I also definitely will spend more time in Poland on developing collections (Mom, lucky you!), but also we are planning to open a small design studio in Los Angeles or NYC next year. 

YOUR NEW BRAND EMPHASIZES A DIRECTION OF RESPONSIBLE LUXURY. COULD YOU EXPLAIN MORE ABOUT WHAT "RESPONSIBLE LUXURY" MEANS TO YOU, AND HOW IT'S REFLECTED IN YOUR DESIGNS?
With the new brand, I want to make sure we work only with factories having safe and responsible work environment and every person is treated with respect, receiving fair wage. I will visit all the factories personally. 
Mental health balance is now extremely important to me and we aim to create well-balanced work environment for the new team. Fashion sector is one of the most dynamic and stressful ones and we all experienced it at some point in our careers so we would love to disenchant this belief and create a healthy, safe structure.  

We will also be taking more responsibility for fabric choices and aim to avoid an overproduction by reacting to the real market demand. There will be some pieces in the new collection which will be made out from recycled products and we are considering seriously upcycling models for tailoring. 

HOW ARE YOU PLANNING TO BALANCE THE TIMELESSNESS OF YOUR DESIGNS WITH THE DESIRE TO REMAIN FRESH AND INNOVATIVE IN THE EVER-EVOLVING FASHION LANDSCAPE?
I believe that you can be successful without being fresh and innovative every season. Actually, for me wearing timeless pieces is now fresh and innovative, especially when the market is drowning in new products. Timelessness with a bit of a fresh twist that is my focus. These days you can have everything, that's why I believe in having less pieces but really feeling their value. The attention span is so short nowadays and it gives really poor chances to build a sort of connection with the product.

In a season ditching all manner of fuss for a chic-meets-sleek affair, clothes are shifting their meaning to a new, understated level. The menswear season in Paris has grappled with a wealth of micro—and macro—trends that embraced a new take on menswear dressing.

LOEWE

A study on perspective. On how points of view define perceptions and scales, and how perceptions and scales draw silhouettes. Dwarfed by Lynda Benglis’ gigantic, water-spouting fountains, attendees look at the catwalk from a wide angle, and from the bottom up, taken by a certain grandeur. At least, this is what the silhouette entices: legs are long, the waist is high, the bust becomes compact. Elongation, gesture and an exploration of fabrication turn the straightforward into something not so straightforward, the subtle into the bold. Blazers, coats, banker shirts, knitted polos, twin-sets, argyle knits, jeans and chinos are what the collection consists of. Such apparent plainness deceives the eye, but it is twisted and turned. Crystals swarm over entire surfaces, like filters, or meticulously drawn stripes and pinstripes. Gestural cuts turn the body into a construction. Shoes grow into trousers, giving the impression of cloth coming out of the ground. As ever for LOEWE, the power of the unexpected act turns things around. Tops like giant swatches of fabric, pins included.

Accessories that become pieces of clothing. A crystal hummingbird on a shredded brocade top and crystal-embellished sunglasses. A cerebral palette of soft pastels, and solid blues, black, khakis. Round-toe Chelsea boots and sandals, ballet shoes, oversized bags such as the suede Pebble bucket and Puzzle Fold totes add further elements to the study on proportions.

LOUIS VUITTON

The Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2024 Men’s Collection orbits the sun as a focal point for opportunity, responsibility and enhancement. In his first proposal for the Maison, Men’s Creative Director Pharrell Williams looks to the sun as a universal source of life: a radiance that energises, heals and unifies humans across cultures and creeds.

As our ultimate guiding light, the sun empowers its pupils to study, improve, and share in our appreciation. It teaches us to shine the light – the love – back on our fellow humans. The impact of the sun is present throughout the collection, in the rays of graphics, the warmth of the palette, and the glistening surface decorations that gild garments and accessories. The show is presented on Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in the French capital, in the ever-present view of the adjacent Louis Vuitton studios. It embodies a metaphorical connection between Paris and Virginia, the home state of Pharrell Williams. The evolution it represents inspires memories of Princess Anne High School in Virginia Beach, a seminal institution in the early education of the Men’s Creative Director, as well as recollections of the road that led him to today: the generosity of Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, who ignited a foray into fashion that would only grow through Pharrell Williams’ relationship with Pietro Beccari.

The formative premise is epitomised in styling elements and in American varsity jackets amplified through the Parisian confection of the Maison’s ateliers. The premise encourages a study of the sporty wardrobe in tracksuits and knitwear re-contextualised with pearl embroideries or Monogram.

JUUN.J

Juun.J embraced the theme of 'SKIN' this season, presenting the beauty of contrast. They maximized the contrast of silhouettes by mixing slim-fitting clothes that evoke the image of the body with twisted and exaggerated volume items, emphasizing the contrast effect. Especially within the modern atmosphere of Palais de Tokyo, they created a runway that spanned almost 100 meters, showcasing 39 outfits inspired by the skinny aesthetics of the 70s, tailoring from the 80s, and denims from the 90s. Furthermore, they broke the boundaries between ready-to-wear and haute couture by blending tops and bottoms using various materials and colors such as leather, denim, wool, jersey, and sequins. The representative colors include beige, black, navy, khaki, white, silver, and opal. Juun.J collaborated with Belgian typographic artist Christophe Szpajdel. They expressed specially designed rock graphics through prints and embroidery on various items. Jung Wook-Jun, Juun.J's creative director stated, "We beautifully expressed Juun.J's contrast at 'Palais de Tokyo,' the hottest

museum in Paris," adding, "By incorporating tattoo-style graphics into the theme of 'SKIN' this season, we can experience new items that haven't been seen before."

AMI

AMI continues the process started last winter, refining the wardrobe to strengthen it. Inspired by the extraordinary minimalism of the 90s, the brand's basic essentials have been reinterpreted. Connected to reality, the wardrobe echoes its times. With sharply defined shoulders and fluid shapes, the AMI silhouette is close to the body, following its curves and movements. Men evolve at their own pace within the collection, while unisex propositions take up more space, and women fully embrace their feminine sensuality.

Pastels and natural summer colors contrast with brighter tones. Like AMI's black and white stripes, the graphic juxtaposition is inviting, while lush fabrics amplify the collection's lightness. Hands are fluid, less structured, and casual pieces borrow fabrics from tailoring.

KOCHE

For her Spring Summer 24 collection, Christelle Kocher delicately revisits what constitutes the very essence of her creative vision: an uninhibited, inventive fashion, whose sophistication builds bridges between popular culture builds bridges between popular culture and the excellence of craftsmanship. All in a purity of forms. Without overbidding. A wardrobe is the concrete expression of a vision, a harmonious whole where every detail counts. We find in this collection this work on the blur, these tops embroidered with skilful geometries, these hand-painted lace, muslin, georgette.

This collection is an ode to femininity also embodied by the masculine, delicacy and vulnerability are in both locker rooms. There are also spectacular pieces such as these patterns of shirts and shorts painted by hand by Christelle herself, bringing together quotes from female artists that she carries in her heart such as Patti Smith, Virginie Despentes, Virginia Woolf, Céline Minard . All of these pieces are worn by boys. Christelle plays with stretch materials by combining everything with the most spectacular embroideries developed in the Koché studio in Paris.

LGN LOUIS-GABRIEL NOUCHI

Reflecting Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s lifetime passion for reading, each collection pays tribute to a book or a writer who has inscribed their vision on the world. The SS24 collection is inspired by the book “A SINGLE MAN“ by Christopher Isherwood (1964), and reflects on the tension between the structure imposed on men in society and the uncontrollable force of the repressed emotions. It opens the conversation on mourning, and how men are expected to react, openly show or not, emotions. In the novel, George has recently lost his long-term partner, Jim, in a car accident. George goes through a journey having various encounters that colors his senses and enlighten the possibilities of being alive and human in the world. The 60’s Mods inspired jackets with sharp shoulders are strangled and cinched at the waist. Classics singlet and bodysuits from the 60’s men wardrobe are sublimated as new home-wear pieces. Thanks to micro-modal and lyocell fabrics these pieces enable confort, softness and breathability while being sustainable.

DIOR HOMME

From the feminine to the masculine, from the salon to the street, from the new look to new wave. A collage of influences and pop iconography takes shape at the heart of this dior summer 2024 line dreamed up by kim jones, simultaneously embracing tradition and subversion. Conceived as a multi-faceted tribute to dior icons via different eras and the house’s artistic directors, the collection draws on the silhouettes created by yves saint laurent, Gianfranco Ferré and Marc Bohan, reinterpreted and transformed. Infusing all is a sense of crisp, playful modernity, practicality and ease. The appearance of archetypal menswear items – such as the harrington, polo shirt, crew neck and cardigan – is transformed from the ordinary to the extraordinary, through symbolic techniques that traverse time and styles at dior: tweeds, embroideries and cannage. Punctuating the looks, a multiplicity of bags in a variety of shapes, colors and textures range from extravagant to sober. A passionate dialogue between heritage and reinvention(s).

SONGZIO

Songzio’s SS24 collection converges the classical and the new, converging the brand’s unique and artistic designs with a new sense of youthful ready to wear and tailoring. Inspired by ancient korean garments and armor, this collection features songzio’s signature cocoon silhouette and volume, delicately deconstructed with multi layered drapes and plated cuts. Prevalent throughout the collection are the multi draped and layered pieces. From blazers, jackets, shirts to trousers, the horizontaly cut pieces are worn with vertically layered inner pieces made in leather, habotai and silk. With such pieces,this season materializes songzio’s creative process ‘paint on black’. Every collection begins on a black canvas where the season’s inspirational painting is drawn. In songzio’s multi layered paintings, the vertical strokes represent the object while the horizontal strokes represent its emotions.

This concept of strokes and layeres is also applied in this season’s accessories. Plate layered shoulder bags, pouches, as well as classic rounded derby and ribboned loafers accentuates the collection. This season also feature’s the brand’s collaboration shoes with reebok inspired by this season’s signature plates and draped wings.

EGONLAB

For Spring 2024, EGONLAB urges us to redefine our relationship with our bodies and reminds us of moments of choice. That tipping point when two directions lay before us and the decisive moment when we venture into the unknown. Titled "Toute première fois", it evokes this rebirth, the power of decision-making and liberation.

The power of life, growth, and pleasure. An inner exploration that involves exploring the body we discover, defying gender, and revealing forms. For the upcoming spring, bodies are blossoming like the "flower of evil." Tailoring is ever-present, serving as a reminder and landmark, a signature. It sculpts the body and captivates the blossoming hearts. Curves are meticulously crafted to enhance silhouettes and shape unique, open, and subversive identities. A scent of punk and sensuality takes hold of the wardrobe as bodies break free from conventions and mingle in an endless soirée. Denim, leather, and exquisite materials punctuate this open wardrobe. Skin against skin. If to touch our souls, we must taste sweat, feel flesh, then so be it.

Sankuanz  

This season, the Giantess has been chosen as the inspiration for the SANKUANZ Spring/Summer 2024 collection.​ ​The multi-dimensionality and complexity of the Giantess is interpreted with a design language that blurs the lines between gender, and blends street style and high fashion with pluralism and depth.​ Following la veuve noire of the previous season, “CHAPTER 4 GIANTESS” continues the brand’s homage to the female strength as it features a collaboration with artist Amanda Ba. Her contemporary illustrations of the Giantess and the Pitbull are presented in various textile techniques, including print on mesh and laser printed denim. Abrasion and stain effects convey an incorrigibility and an aversion to conformity behind the vintage-store-bought appearance.

And to drastically contrast (or perhaps perfectly complement) the fierceness of the Giantess, SANKUANZ retains its humour and inclination towards pop art and playful elements in adorable cartoon graphics that adorn the typically masculine garments in the form of prints and accessories. Plushie keychains in vibrant colours clash with Amanda’s harsh illustrations and the violence of the brand’s signature dagger details, emphasizing the diversity of our current youth culture. 

WALES BONNER

Reflections of a long distance runner: the silent messenger, the unwavering spirit striding, soaring. Words of upliftment arrive from the legendary runners of Ethiopia and Kenya. With eyes fixed on the horizon and legs carried by belief, Gebreselassie, Dibaba, and Kipchoge issue a call to continue and never stray. Following in their footsteps, the Spring Summer collection becomes an ode to long journeys and life missions. A celebration of soulful pursuits and inspired movement. Holistic commitment is felt throughout the collection with hand-making techniques honed over generations. Precious time is imbued in Tibeb fabric woven by artisans in Addis Ababa. Raffia is hand-embroidered on skirts and vests in a disrupted animal print motif, while intricate stud and bead stripes detail womenswear tailoring. Macrame net vests and skirts made from beads in Ghanaian artisanal glass and sonorous silver echo the calabash instrument. The sounds reverberate until consistent practice creates an unconscious rhythm—the point where mantras repeat without effort, where routine transcends to a tranquil flow.

Passages over the hills are imagined in silhouettes between shepherd and equestrian: check outerwear, rawhide skirts, bouclé knitwear, and calfskin riding boots made in partnership with Himco in Italy. Telluric wonders continue with cheetah printed cowhide and tailoring in horsehair canvas. This season, sheepskin-lined loafers from UGG round out an offering for restful interludes. The codes of Wales Bonner remain steadfast: signature shirting is issued in gradient stripes, while hybrid tailoring in earthen brown wool is enlivened by radiant blue satin and sportswear finishes.

MARINE SERRE

MARINE SERRE’s new collection presents a megamix of seasonal one-hit wonders, rare gems, and golds. The show sets the tone with the first notes of Debussy's 'Clair de Lune,' an ode to nightlife and a reference to Marine Serre's moon crescent logo. This originally transgressive classical track keeps its iconoclast touch serving as the perfect foundation for

this 15-minute re-interpretation—a journey through the history of electronic dance music. As the show music producer Pierre Rousseau likes to say: “It’s a process of radicality, regeneration, and hybridization dear to MARINE SERRE, adapted to music.” A sumptuous track that captures the heavenly sensation of a perfect summer day, making you want to dance. The kind of track that can instantly shoot your mood to the Moon and back. The staged collection highlights a plethora of techniques, fabrics, and silhouettes, with half of them regenerated from upcycled or deadstock materials—a showcase of different expressions of passion. The runway cast is a unique signature of the house, featuring an eclectic group of models and eleven music artists: Teyana Taylor, Miguel, Aron Piper, Sevdaliza, Noah Cyrus, Yseult, Brooke Candy, Anetha, Pink Siifu, John Glacier and Aime Simone.

All jamming together and vibing at the same pulsation. Teyana Taylor takes the stage as the opening act, adorned in a dress crafted from pleated scarves and upcycled tee shirts, sensually molded on her silhouette. A powerful example of MARINE SERRE’s work process, where materials are ennobled, and two pillars of the house reinvent and regenerate themselves in a mutual dance for the very first time.

LAZOSCHMIDL

The Lazoschmidl Spring/Summer 2024 collection follows the rhythm of a couple’s romantic getaway. From boarding to pool time, from seafood dinner at the beach to skinny dipping under the crescent moon. Lightness and nonchalance accompany the protagonists while they indulge and enjoy each other’s company wearing sheer, soft and short clothing. Striped Bathing suits, crochet ensembles and snug tops evoke the feeling of nostalgia while hi-tech fibers cite an utopian future in a yet non-existing world.

The dreamy gaycation features upcycled fight jackets and hybrid denim hotpants with open fy and sewn-in swimwear whileAI generated artworks are based on the symbolism of a cliché-ridden love novel.

In the ever-evolving world of organic beauty, "The Glow" face creme from This Place has emerged as a beacon of excellence.

In the ever-evolving world of organic beauty, "The Glow" face creme from This Place has emerged as a beacon of excellence. The prestigious LE MILE Magazine has hailed it as the 'Greatest Organic Face Creme of the Year', an accolade well-earned by the marriage of science, nature, and mindfulness this product exemplifies.

"The Glow" transcends the commonplace use of beauty products and transforms the process into a moment of intimate self-connection. It’s a calming ritual of self-care in our hectic lives that begins with clean skin, the bedrock for achieving that radiant 'Glow'. This product’s light texture perfectly primes the skin, setting an ideal base for makeup application, becoming a cherished daily routine.

This Place's "The Glow" caters to a variety of skin types, providing a nourishing and moisturising elixir packed with extracts from the hemp plant, CBD, and hyaluronic acid. The formulation, free from synthetic preservatives and fragrances, reduces the risk of skin irritation, further enhancing its broad appeal.

"The Glow" distinguishes itself in the crowded skincare market with its unique composition. It revitalises tired skin, making it radiate with health and vitality. Its scientifically proven anti-inflammatory properties assist in reducing redness, blemishes, and impurities, harmonising your complexion. In a lab study conducted in 2021, it was found that "The Glow" could suppress the generation of critical inflammation markers by up to 98%.

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All Images (c) lemilestudios

Summer. It's not just for sunburns and sandy beaches – it's also the season of sports watches. Pushing the boundaries of design and engineering, NOMOS Glashütte rolls out sports watches that are as sleek and chic as they are hardy and tough.

Club Sport neomatik petrol – more than just a pretty face

NOMOS watches are a heady mix of robust durability and elegant delicacy. Not only are they waterproof, tough as nails and fitted with a sapphire crystal back, but these bad boys rock a thin profile, shifting from beach to bar effortlessly.

Making a grand statement on the wrist, NOMOS watches size up between 36 to 42 millimeters. Yet, their construction is anything but bulky. Made from optimized 316L stainless steel, their bezels function as a shield for the glass, ramping up the watch's stability. In the realm of sports watches, it’s not just about toughness – it’s also about aesthetics.

Ahoi neomatik Atlantic – designed to be seen

NOMOS knows that a sports watch's readability is crucial. Step up, the Ahoi neomatik Atlantic, boasting anti-reflective sapphire glass, bold numbers and hands, striking hour markers, and a strong colour contrast on the dial. And with a sprinkle of Superluminova magic, this timepiece is your faithful companion, day or night, land or sea.

NOMOS doesn't skimp on the back either. The case back, crafted from stainless steel or scratch- resistant sapphire glass, is waterproof and screwed tight to shield the watch's inner workings. What's more? The case design incorporates dual crown protection, buffering the crown and its winding mechanism from those accidental knocks.

Contrary to popular belief, tough doesn't always mean bulky. NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 42 Datum watches are a testament to this. Despite housing a casing safe made of sapphire glass and stainless steel, they remain slender, offering robustness, water resistance up to 300 meters, and a date mechanism – the perfect embodiment of sporty elegance.

NOMOS Glashütte stands at the intersection of robustness and elegance, creating sport watches that make an impact, not just in the summer, but all year round. Beautifully crafted and incredibly resilient, they are ideal companions for any sports enthusiast or anyone in search of a watch that effortlessly combines functionality with style.

A constant in Pierpaolo Piccioli’s career has been his fascination with romantic, fluid-like elegance. Perhaps it was something to do with growing up in Rome, but it later matured into the inspiration for some desirable menswear and equally covetable shows.

The designer is a master of catwalk theatrics; but his Spring 2024 show—done under a scorching sun that had press and celebrities sitting in a diagonal setting—brought a sense of discomfort among invitees. Despite the heat, the clothes were commendable: he strengthened key silhouettes by gently volumising outerwear, toppers, and pants, which continue their journey into chic practicality from previous seasons.

The collection began with the most classic shapes and fabrics, but there’s more to the story. This season saw Piccioli exploring the Japanese concept of Kintsugi (which refers to “golden seams”), describing imperfection as a means of reinvention: because from fragility comes authenticity, and Piccioli is well aware of the power of symbolism, a concept often used as an undercurrent in his men’s collections.

Breeziness might have seemed like a way to put a new spin on the sartorial theme that dominates menswear for Spring 2024. Is there one designer who didn’t show a blazer this season or make ties the accessory of choice?

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all images (c) Valentino, 2023

Authenticity is an intensely desirable weapon in fashion. Its power to persuade can’t be denied.

Unsurprisingly, there was a sort of nomadic adventurer vibe, with some details borrowed from utilitarian elegance, an archetype of the corporate artisan celebrated in sophisticated expressions of the house’s codes. Here, references to artisanal know-how came through the light-filled atrium of the FENDI Factory: the collection and the show itself are a reflection on process, where the link between man and machine acquires tangible symbolism between past and future. What’s more, exploring the liminal space that divides nature and innovation, the industrial and the handmade are entwined in a soaring crescendo: tricking the eye, but never the hand. There was an emphasis on new volumes and extreme basics, according to the notes. A sharply-cut cropped jacket paired with ultra-wide cargo pants was a playful take on functional wear; and a slim, knee-length topper with fluid lapels also riffed on the traditional. As always, FENDI showed off their subtle sense of colour, but the cutouts proved to be somewhat tricky, and, while the breezy outerwear was a huge hit throughout the line-up, the take on volumes appeared somewhat redundant.

This house has always preferred elegance to edge, but this season, the results looked more fuss-free, without the superfluous extras (cue: macro logos!) that have proven a bit too distracting in the past. The setup of the show emphasized the idea that the collection had versatility. The most compelling component about these clothes, though, was that they were both fresh and familiar—the sort of pieces, in fact, you could easily imagine (and want to see) hanging in your closet.

FENDI’s other aim this time around was to create a universal—not controversial—wardrobe to be worn by the modern man, interchangeably. The house presented a newfound affection for silhouettes: the practical pieces intermingled with a chic appeal, while the outerwear felt sublimely in touch with the lush pullovers and trousers.

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all images (c) Fendi, 2023

The ceaseless pursuit of innovation is no mean feat in a world increasingly characterized by changes that have had dramatic aftermaths on social, economic, and cultural levels.

PITTI UOMO 104 was one such example: minimal elegance aligns with a dialogue that sits within traditional and forward-thinking registers, where a new concept of luxury leisurewear is pivotal. In this conceptual spectrum, PITTI UOMO 104 meets heritage and mixes it with innovation, and lifestyle becomes increasingly conscious. This season saw a palette of tender hues applied to essential cuts and minimal shapes. Moreover, an environmentally-driven vision dictates natural capsules which, in turn, give birth to organic and fine yarns, and the reassuring compactness of linen, silk, cotton, cashmere rules supreme. Lightweight raincoats alternate with unstructured, featherweight jackets. Freshness is central on double-breasted suits and safari jackets, rolling in a sense of utmost versatility. From sugar-coated toppers to brilliant offerings, read our style roundup from this season’s PITTI UOMO edition. You’re welcome.

U.S. POLO ASSN.
U.S. Polo Assn’s new collection—the official brand of the United States Polo Association (USPA)—was presented at Florence's Fortezza da Basso. Created by Incom, the new line revisits the brand's classic styles in a contemporary key, infusing them with bright colours inspired by the Mediterranean Sea and light, summer-tinged fabrics such as linen and seersucker (a very thin cotton textile). Ruffles, embroidery, and eyelet fabrics enrich the traditional polo dress for women, while accessories are embellished with natural gems, enameled elements, and coloured crystals. Everything is designed with a focus on the environment: in addition to the use of sustainable denim, the labels are marked with USPA Life colours (white, blue, and green) that indicate to consumers the sustainable origin of the products.

STEFANO RICCI
“Clothes are the mirror of the soul, the fulcrum of emotions and personality. Since ancient times, and now more than ever, fashion has been expressing the tale of oneself, the letter describing who we are,” read Stefano Ricci’s notes. For his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, archetypes appear as flashes of truth, according to the tradition of the brand that has always held high the standard of excellence and truly made in Italy production. The collection adheres to the needs of the modern man, who explores beyond any geographical and social border. The colours of Nature are masterful, giving way to a symphony of pure, light, ductile elegance for the man who travels the world and comes to know unexplored lands. The collection is for a wardrobe that takes the best style and reinterprets it with the aesthetic elements of comfort.

SLOWEAR
Innovation rooted in the heritage of the past: these are the main ingredients of the SS24 collection presented by the Slowear Group brands: Incotex, Montedoro, Zanone, and Glanshirt. The creative impulse originated precisely from the past, from the desire to give it new meaning through an entirely contemporary stylistic interpretation. Historical archival designs have been renewed in their essence, with prints and patterns in tones suited to a light summer spirit and a deliberately vintage flavour.

NOBIS
Ahead of the new season, Nobis, a leading Canadian outdoor clothing company, presents a selection of jackets ideal for lovers of camping and outdoor experiences. Nobis outerwear offers the perfect combination of functionality, durability, and weather resistance, enabling campers to fully enjoy nature in all weather conditions. One of the main features is the use of high-quality water-repellent materials. These special fabrics enable the jackets to repel water and moisture, keeping us dry and comfortable even during sudden rains or hiking in wet areas. The water-repellent treatment ensures that water slides off the outer surface, thus preventing it from penetrating the fabric. Designed with the specific needs of outdoor activities in mind, the Nobis proposals feature adjustable hoods, cuffs with hook-and-loop closures, straps, multiple pockets, and water-resistant zippers. Wear resistance is another key aspect. Nobis jackets are made of strong, durable materials that resist tears, abrasion, and the stresses typical of the outdoors.

The quietly potent, poised edge of the menswear shows in Milan is slowly detaching from timeless classics and that long reigned the runways: this season, after a stellar line-up of brands that showcased their Spring/Summer 2024 collections, the quiet shapes and breezy volumes ruled supreme, forging a new path for the highly-coveted trend of quiet luxury.

MSGM

“Sogno Off Road”: inspired by Massimo Giorgetti’s Tanzanian trip, the MSGM Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection is like a dream interrupted, when the early morning sun illuminates uncharted lands, heralding the dawn of a new day — an invitation to embark on an exploration of boundless territories awaiting discovery. As one dream fades, another unfolds, blurring the lines between imagination and reality: wonders materialize before our eyes, surpassing the limits of our wildest fantasies. Its nature reveals itself in its purest form — a dream brought to life, experienced with eyes wide open.

The collection's hues dance between the ethereal and the terrestrial. Earthy tones reminiscent of sand, brown or green, celestial sky blues and lilacs.

Vibrant orange hues ignite the collection with a fiery energy, just as they set the African horizon ablaze during savannah sunsets. Fabrics are organic and tactile, prints have natural textures, they are delicate and elevated. On black tailored looks, frayed cotton mimics the texture of zebra coats, while cow prints recall the animals roaming on African plains.

ETRO

While visiting his hometown, Marco De Vincenzo stumbled all of a sudden onto a copy of Cesare Ripa’s Iconology: a seventeenth century repertoire filled with allegorical images depicting virtues, qualities, and vices. The encounter triggered a detour among esoteric arcana and amusing representations full of hidden meanings. A detour that originated in the past but swiftly led to the present moment. Only at a superficial glance allegories look in fact like relics of another time. If allegories use figuration to express concepts, what are memes, GIFs, and even tiktoks if not ways to allow images to say something else, or just simply communicating thoughts in non-verbal ways? And isn’t the act itself of putting together an outfit, also, an allegorical deed that charges image-making with communicative powers?

The new Etro collection stems from such intuitive, deliberately non-scientific thinking.

It is imbued with both ease and sacrality, condensed in flowing shapes that barely touch the body and rhythmic patterns that swarm all over it, either mixed or matched. Generous blazers, bermudas, jumpsuits, fuzzy jumpers, football tops are mixed with long cardigans and thick blankets that turn into coats.

Summer memories surface and accumulate, blending with those of his grandfather and ancestors: the ploughed fields, the sowing, the harvest.

JORDANLUCA

Cosmetics magnate Leonard Lauder's popular phrase, the "lipstick index", was coined in recognition of a singular fact - that sales of lipstick (and associated makeup) are inversely commensurate with the health of the economy. In other words, when times are hard, people buy lipstick - that most strident, armour-like and statement-making of cosmetics.

This idea is the launchpad for JORDANLUCA SS24, which also marks the first full collection of womenswear, presented alongside menswear.

Lipstick is represented by the recurring red detail that threads its way through the collection. It's no accident that red, a colour historically associated with power and ritual, also evokes blood, life, murder, sex and death, all reiterative themes in SS24. Among the various greys, browns, neutrals and muds, flecks of red appear and then recede throughout a collection that touches on glamour, crisis and the philosophy of absurdism.

NEIL BARRETT

The Spring/Summer 2024 Neil Barrett collection is a return both to the runway at Milan Fashion Week and to the core codes of the brand. It goes back to the roots of Neil Barrett, in the 1990s menswear Minimalism he pioneered, and to emblematic fundamentals of his style. A precision, a respect and love for materials, a uniform element, an obsession with detail. This collection is anchored around these foundational elements, re-inventing solutions for dressing. The notion of workwear - uniforms for industry - underpins the clothes.
Constantly contrasted, these garments share a purpose and duty, engineered for function, designed for life. Here they are elevated through superlative fabrics, reinvented in hue, proportioned and refashioned. Harking back to 1990s Minimalism, formal tailoring becomes informal by loosening the fit. The exactitude of an underpinning to looks, a stripe of white, becomes a graphic thread through the collection.

GIORGIO ARMANI

Narrating a certain style is a constant process of writing and rewriting. It involves examining familiar elements from different angles to craft new plots and weave new stories. Giorgio Armani’s story always stems from the same unwavering urgency: to clothe the present with a vibrant, authentic sign fashioned from dignity and elegance. This collection reiterates the code while weaving a new storyline: forms are soft and lengthened, intertwining threads either actually woven or evoked in prints that imitate knots, weaves with a summery feel, and geometric motifs for rhythm.

The body is never overtly exposed but the energy that animates the lightweight volumes is palpable. Intertwining notes of blue, sand and natural tones provide the chromatic completion to this particularly light and fresh collection, which includes shoes and sandals similarly characterised by knots and weaves. A story in which everything comes together.

MAGLIANO

“More tears have been shared for the granted prayers than for the Unheard ones.”

Teresa D’avila “five minutes on the runway are more effective than a life-time in Therapy” Bruno pompa At Palamagliano - both a finished building and a construction site - for the first time, a proper runway works as a sincere invitation: ‘come see us’. But it is also an excuse for giving something back. The words printed on the clothes are prayers, epigraphs and Thanksgivings for who is here and who will be. Graphics punctuate important pleads, impudent dares, impressed as to not be forgotten. The Clothes become talismans because of the events that have occurred. As the money that Alda Merini - our season’s whirling heroine - ìtrousers and working overalls, wind-breaking jackets: all These clothes deconstruct and break into devices for glamour, a Wretched couture. What remains are the attire’s protective and Technical features, but they are shredded, torn into pieces, till the last hem of their function becomes the precious element.

What challenges do you face coming from a country with a strong cycling culture? How do you share that mindset with the world?
Coming from one of the world's cycling capitals is not a challenge, it’s a big opportunity. No matter where you are, the issues and opportunities are essentially the same. We all want more liveable, greener, and cleaner cities. More creative urban solutions, more space to live, safer roads, and more cycling lanes. Every culture has its own view of cycling. And if you look below the surface, there are also stigmas attached to bikes. The real challenge is to break those stigmas. And that’s where VanMoof comes in. We want to change habits and culture by showing people a better alternative. We have the opportunity to really break the mold, as the ‘enfant terrible’ in the e-bike industry.  


Was it a conscious decision at the conception of the brand to position VanMoof as a car alternative rather than a bike alternative?
When VanMoof was born, the goal was simply to make a better bike. It was never meant specifically as a car alternative. However, the bike in general is an alternative to the car. And an e-bike is an even better alternative, especially in cities. A car stands still for 96% of its life, but they take up roughly 60% of inner city space. And when a car moves, it pollutes. The average car only drives 5.6 miles a day. For that distance, you don’t need a car – you can easily bike that. This urban reality motivates my brand vision for VanMoof. I want people to re-think their daily A-to-B. To get them out of their iron boxes and onto bikes. Moving forward, we should celebrate the growing global community which shares this mindset. When you look at the obstacles which hold back our cities from becoming more livable, many can be overcome by switching to two wheels.


Why do you feel VanMoof was so successful at positioning itself as a premium and popular brand within such a saturated market?
Everything the two founders, Ties and Taco, have done from the start of the brand journey has been original. They’ve consciously avoided following the ‘rules’ of the bike industry. The bike’s visual design is iconic, but what really sets us apart is the fact that all features and hardware are developed internally. This has created an amazing playing field to communicate from. As a creative director, I’ve been stimulated and challenged to think outside of the box, to reshape the status quo from day one. All the work we are doing now looks to the future – seeing a greener, cleaner cityscape optimized for better living.

What influences your design aesthetic? Nature? Technology? The automobile industry?
I take inspiration for our communication from various angles; I can’t pinpoint a specific one. As a team, I think we look at what’s happening around us globally and locally, culturally, and creatively and try to link this to the brand and its purpose. These influences can come directly from our riders, or from culture, art, music, and social changes. We translate this into a modular brand voice which allows us to be provocative, playful, and relatable. I want us to be able to react to our environment, to stay agile, and always be unexpected. Shifting from high-spec 3D product animation, to portraying our riders documentary-style, to even using cartoon imagery – we can use different forms to communicate the same vision.

Are there plans to expand the range of VanMoof bikes to include other styles such as a step through frame or a fold up? 
I know the R&D team is always exploring new possibilities within mobility. And I wish I could tell you what’s coming! They’re not only exploring functionality and visual design but also looking at how we can become more sustainable and adapting our manufacturing processes. We’re now focused on creating a completely ownable ecosystem, ready for an ever-changing city landscape and the demands of the people that live there. This means the creative team should work in parallel with R&D to develop campaigns that hero our products and take the brand’s visual aesthetic and voice to the next level.


Other than cost and cycling infrastructure what else do you feel prevents people from switching to cycling for commuting? Do you think VanMoof can be part of that change?
Totally. If VanMoof can help people change their habits, if we can change our culture and get people out of their cars, we’ll quickly see the effects everywhere. And because of COVID-19, this change has been accelerated. Paris is quickly becoming a bike city. New York is recording new riders every day. Milan is developing 35km of bike lanes. You see it happening all over the world. This change will continue, and I believe people will come to rely less and less on cars or public transport. I also think that, as a brand, we could even do more and become part of local conversations, stimulating cities to invest in cycling and helping with infrastructure.


What’s next for the brand? VanMoof is marketed as a luxury product that is affordable, will you continue on that path of ‘design for all’?
I wouldn’t go as far to say that our design is for absolutely everyone. But I am 100% sure that bikes should be accessible to all. So in that sense, we will continue on this path. We’ve made it our mission to get ‘the next billion on bikes’ and make cities cleaner and greener. As part of that, I want to take away any remaining stigmas from biking, so we can all ‘ride the future’ together. The brand’s future focus will be on strengthening our service, building the R&D teams, and expanding globally to become the best-in-class e-bike worldwide.

+ ROECKL Spring/Summer 2022

The colors of the new collection are as contrasting and graceful as the motifs themselves: soft pastel shades such as Vanilla, Buttercream, Aqua and Lavender meet bold Mango Sorbet, Lime and Hot Pink – which in turn are balanced with natural tones ranging from Earth to Seagrass, Sand and Palm Green.

Ever since 1839, and thus for over 180 years, ROECKL accessories are synonymous with excellent quality, durability, and timeless elegance. Like no other brand, the family-owned company is manufacturing high-quality leather products and has been passing on this knowledge for generations.

The best natural materials such as leather, cashmere and silk are at the core of every collection. Even nowadays, ROECKL is working only with the best craftsmen in their metier. The result are timeless pieces created according to traditional techniques which become all-time favourites.

shop yours in store or online roeckl.com
follow @roeckl_official

+ The result? Unique pieces to fall in love with!

Now they travel together with their families - preferably to Portugal. And this is where the Motel a Miio journey started!

shop your set in store or online motelamiio.com
follow @motelamiio

Gabriela Hearst pioneers a new design language in her lSS24 collection. Hearst's pre-collection offerings serve as a ‘warm-up’ to the main event – the Spring-Summer 2024 show. As the fashion industry grapples with its carbon footprint, Chloé’s vision manifests in the confluence of consciousness, circularity, and timelessness.

One look, in particular, brings Hearst great joy. Denim trousers made almost entirely from post-consumer cotton, paired with a shirt cut from deadstock cotton and recycled acetate sunglasses, are a testament to the harmony of eco-consciousness and beauty. As Hearst explains, we must recognize how our brain works, abandon archaic mental frameworks, and make conscious choices that serve us and our planet.

The collection is abundant in alluring paradoxes. Classic materials are deceptively represented – an indigo jacket with a shearling collar isn’t denim or corduroy, but soft suede. A lace crew-neck sweater isn't lace at all but an innovative blend of matte cashmere and lustrous silk. Heritage textiles are explored and manipulated in fresh ways, such as the new bespoke cotton-wool tweed used for a trench coat and a reinvented Penelope shoulder bag.

credits
all images (c) Chloé, 2023

Your career bears many fruits, from opening the renowned Damoy Store to creating your own label, La Collection, back in 2017. What is your background in fashion? How has everything culminated?
As a young girl fascinated by fashion, sketching at the age of three, mainly of my mom dressed in tailored suits. Later on, I found myself studying a subject of a completely different nature, leading to my next chapter where I studied fashion technology, using my spare time for creative outlets. It was when I met my husband Artur. He truly believed in my passion and encouraged the start of our own fashion business. Between us we didn't have much industry experience, being new to it all, facing challenges along the way. Though it was tough, giving up was never an option. Acting from the heart, everything changed in a positive respect. Myself and my husband stopped listening to other people’s advice on how to run a showroom and realised that we had something new and fresh, something that people loved!


We’ve been living in the dawning of fast fashion for some while now. Mass production has created a fleeting landscape for the industry. What do you feel is the key to creating an authentic label while also maintaining longevity?
Initially, with the onset of our label we'd decided to do things differently, setting ourselves apart from traditional brands. Seasons and trends weren't central in the design or production process. Choosing to be a timeless, seasonless label, maintaining quality and craftsmanship. Occasionally, samples are ready days or even nights before fashion week, which positions La Collection into a couture-centric brand. The fabrics are made to order and this in itself can be a lengthy process. After this part of production is achieved, our ateliers spend time developing a style and the process naturally evolves from here. In all honesty, I wouldn’t have it any other way. Despite the fashion industry penning us into a certain method of working, it’s up to modern luxury brands, such as ours to make a change. Focusing on honest manufacturing instead of relying on high-speed production and low overheads. I believe in a perfect new world, where the end consumer prefers to wear labels that genuinely care about a slower approach to fashion.

COVID-19 has spurred an unprecedented change within fashion. Seasonal shows have been digitised. The very structure of consuming fashion has changed altogether. Though it seems hard to equate any measure of positivity into these challenging circumstances, it feels as though the industry is having some sort of rebirth. Creative Directors, Designers, Photographers and everyone in-between now have the opportunity to evolve and innovate. As a designer, do you find the prospect of the industry suddenly changing, exciting or nerve-racking?
The first few weeks of lockdown during March, there was an overwhelming sense of a standstill. Nothing was certain, and nobody knew what was going to happen next. Despite this, our company decided to take no risks, immediately redeveloping our pre-existing platform into a virtual showroom. By June we had everything set up, with the ability to showcase our collections to an even wider audience than ever before. Creatively speaking, I didn’t feel that I was lost for too long as it struck me that our lives were going to look very different. Ultimately, what we were going to be wearing needed to fit into this new way of living - a much more relaxed lifestyle, fewer weddings and parties would be taking place, with people staying at home.


The La Collection HQ operates in Belgium, with its rich cultural history embedded within the Arts. Do you find inspiration inherently comes from the area that surrounds you? Or is traveling where your imagination is most captured?
It's a mixture of both, I feel so privileged to have the best of several worlds to take inspiration from. Living in Antwerp is something that's never boring! The city itself is a melting pot, which is a constant source of inspiration. I also spend time in Paris; the architecture, museums, galleries, people and the general vibe of the city inspires me. It’s often where the design process starts. Another love of mine is painting, especially something of an abstract nature, never knowing where it’ll take me.
Generally speaking, inspiration comes from many various aspects, never knowing when or where it’ll come from. I'll take pictures of my surroundings - the cobblestones on the ground, buildings and various neighbourhoods in Antwerp. While always making sure to never forget the things that I love and feel inspired by. Sometimes, I’ll note down my thoughts. Often, I'll find myself waking up in the middle of the night with an idea that must be written down, otherwise, I’m unable to sleep soundly!

I’ve read that you’re a fan of Rodin, the romantic contours of his sculptures seamlessly marry into your garments. Who else has influenced you over the course of your career?
I remember as a young girl, my mom used to study Rodin alongside the works of his mistress Camille Claudel. My mom was studying sculpture at the Academy, so I’m very familiar with his works. It’s a very nostalgic and heartfelt feeling when the imagery of Rodin reappears in my mind. I’m also a big fan of [the] artists Alexander Calder, Pierre Soulage and Yves Klein. Most importantly, my true inspiration is founded amongst the wardrobe and way of living that Georgia O’Keefe embraced.


The Pre-Spring 21 collection echoes a timeless elegance, both of subject and means - complimented by a deliciously classical colour-palette. What is the story behind the silhouettes of this collection? Has this informed the use of thick Italian wools and heavyweight silks throughout?
This collection was all about being able to escape to a dream world. Naturally, the breezy silks and tailored cool wools would complement the backdrop of the rocks on my favourite beach in France. As a brand, La Collection represents modern luxury. Designing for the woman who's out there juggling life - from grocery shopping to business meetings and dinner with friends – all in one outfit. Pre-Spring 2021 is built on tailored pieces that go hand-in-hand with flowing silks and earthy tones, creating a balance between the labels signature black and white palette. The pieces are cut to perfection, with quality being of central importance. Each garment is timeless with a promised longevity that allows the wearer to cherish each piece for years to come.


There’s been a cataclysmic shift regarding environmental awareness. Fashion houses are restructuring the foundation of how their garments are produced in order to reduce waste and appeal to the more ethically concerned consumer. Is sustainability of great concern to you and your label? What is the La Collection ethos in relation to slow fashion?
Absolutely! I’d hate for my designs to go to waste too soon! Many traditional fashion houses produce their designs with a shelf-life of three months. However, La Collection aims for longer seasons and carrying pieces throughout the year. In addition to this - our ethos is focused on care and maintains the elimination of over-producing garments. Investing in having our Ateliers and production as close as possible, means no unnecessary transportation is taken. As a team, we’re extremely proud of our responsible manufacturing. On occasion, this aspect has cut into our margins in order to be 100% authentic in what we do.

Generally, how vital is the internet and social media in creating and upholding a business? Recently, Bottega Veneta deleted all trace of their digital footprint. What are your views about going off-grid?
It remains important, but it can also be fun! Though there are negative implications of social media - let’s not forget the joy, inspiration and dreams that are created on such platforms. The key is balance and staying true to who you are.

Lastly, what would you like to learn more about? What has the global pandemic taught you?
I’d love to further educate myself on different cultures, traditions and history. I'd also like to pick up my Italian course and learn more about art! The most important lesson the pandemic has taught me is that no matter how you may plan, life will always travel its intended path. We should learn and adapt to being more flexible. I believe that out of every crisis something positive blooms afterwards. It's up to you to make your own luck!

The label’s ready-to-wear line interplays femininity with contemporary elegance. Silhouettes are sharp and structured, contrasted with flowing, draping lines. Understated luxury and classic tailoring are integral to La Collection’s core identity. The label’s muted colour palettes come together to create versatile, trans-seasonal collections that effortlessly transition from day to evening wear.

“Much of my inspiration for La Collection came from travelling, the people I saw in the streets, vintage photographs and clothing, architecture, details in paintings and different cultures around the world. The collection was mainly inspired by the feminine yet nonchalant attitude and details on the streets of Paris. I was also inspired by ideas in my head and the urge to express these wardrobe essentials that I'd wear myself. In each collection my overarching focus is to create timeless pieces in high quality fabrics. Supporting slow fashion, I believe that it's key to be able to continuously re-use clothing.”

Florence Cools, Creative Director

In the face of Covid-19, Cools has evolved with the brand, from the design process to the execution of a complete collection. As a team-lead business, the company has had to adjust across the board to accommodate the unprecedented landscape the world has found itself in. Cools’ approach to design remains characteristically true to herself, her experiences lived and shared, her hometown and her home away from home, Paris. 

Harnessing each lane of her lifestyle and inspirations into a seamless by-product of luxury and minimalism, intertwined into one, La Collection is truly a timeless brand — one that holds true to the nostalgia of owning a piece of clothing for decades. It is not often you can buy into the future when purchasing a garment. We seem to have lost our way in the noise of fast fashion and social media's emphasis on instant gratification. La Collection exudes an immutable essence, giving us a chance to cherish instead of forgetting. 

The past, present and future intertwine, growing together in perfect unison for La Collection. It's independent businesses such as this which are setting the tone of how fashion should be, in a time where change is the only avenue left to navigate.

.designer talk
Kerwin Frost
speaks with
Tagen Donovan

first published in:
issue 31, 02/2021

KERWIN, YOUR OFF THE WALL PERSONAL STYLE AND APPROACH TO MUSIC, PRESENTING AND EVERYTHING IN-BETWEEN HAS A DISTINCT NATURE. DID GROWING UP IN HARLEM DURING THE 1990s HAVE A HAND IN DEVELOPING YOUR RENOWN SENSE OF DRESS AND HUMOUR? WHO, IF ANY, HAS MAJORLY INFLUENCED YOU?
I wasn’t really conscious of growing up in the nineties. Growing up in Harlem definitely shaped a possibility of a bigger vision on being able to do out-of-the- ordinary things. Harlem is a culture clash-whether it was skating, graffiti, music and people icons such as Dapper Dan, Sway, ASAP Rocky - they all presented their own take on doing what they did and had a hand in meshing my worlds together. And being confident about it. So I would say yes!

DURING 2016, SOHO WAS A BEACON OF CREATIVE ACTIVITY - BUZZING WITH A NEW COMMUNITY OF CREATORS, PERSONALITIES AND MUSICIANS. SOME COULD SAY IT WAS A CULTURAL MOMENT WITH THE HEIGHT OF SUPREME POPULARITY AND ODD FUTURE SHREDDING UP THE MUSIC SCENE. IT REALLY FELT LIKE A NEW WAVE OF EMBRACING THE UNCONVENTIONAL. EXPERIENCING THIS SHIFT FIRST-HAND WHILST FINDING YOURSELF INTERNING AT VFILES. WAS YOUR PATH AND SENSE-OF-SELF SOLIDIFYING AT THIS PIVOTAL MOMENT? OR DO YOU FEEL LIKE YOU’RE STILL EVOLVING, EVEN NOW?
Yeah, it really felt like that at the time! All these creatives were busting out of Pandora's box at the exact same time and it was like a cultural explosion. I think interning at VFILES was something I needed to get out of the way at the time, because I knew it would be a big learning experience getting to see behind the scenes. It was also a look for sure, and gave me a reason to be downtown everyday. I [also] got to help on projects that I loved.

FAST FORWARDING TO THE PRESENT, YOU’VE ACHIEVED A TRUCK-LOAD OF SUCCESS: STARTING A COLLECTIVE [SPAGHETTI BOYS] PRESENTING YOUR OWN TALK SHOW AND A RECENT PARTNERSHIP WITH ADIDAS. IT’S SAFE TO SAY YOU’RE NOT JUST PICKING COLOUR-WAYS. WHAT HAS THE EXPERIENCE SO FAR BEEN LIKE WORKING ALONGSIDE ADIDAS? ESPECIALLY WITH THE GIVEN CREATIVE CONTROL YOU’VE BEEN NAVIGATING THE CAMPAIGNS THROUGH?
Working with Adidas has been amazing. From day one I had a boatload of ideas and a new vision to see for the brand. And they kind of just took my word for it. They have given me so much creative control it’s honestly insane. It makes me so grateful because I know how hard this can be for a lot of people who get the opportunity to work with a footwear company. And the fact they really took us and our ideas seriously and with grace just made the creating process feel refreshing for everyone involved. It has truly been a blessing! Our first Adidas meeting post-contract was hosted in the waiting room of NY Presbyterian Hospital 5 hours after my daughter was born. Everything around this collaboration means a lot to me and is very emotional stuff.

SINGLE-HANDEDLY STEERING THE BRAND AWAY FROM THE EXPECTED, YOUR PARTNERSHIP WITH ADIDAS IS A FAR CRY FROM A GENERIC ONE TO SAY THE LEAST! YOU’VE PRESENTED YOUR OWN NARRATIVE AND HAVE SHOWCASED GARMENTS THAT TRULY EMBODY YOU, NOT JUST AS A BRAND PER SE BUT AS A TRUE REFLECTION OF WHO YOU ARE. THE SNEAK PEEK OF YOUR FORUM- HI TRAINER HAS SENT THE INTERNET INTO A FRENZY. YOU’VE COMPLETELY TORN UP THE RULEBOOK WITH YOUR APPROACH TO RESTRUCTURING THE ICONIC SHAPE, GIVING THE SHOE EYES, A NOSE, TEETH, AND HAIR. ADDITIONALLY, YOUR TAKE ON THE ICONIC SHELL-TOE SUPERSTAR SNEAKER PRESENTS A SILHOUETTE FIVE TIMES BIGGER THAN THE ACTUAL SHOE ITSELF, WHILST STILL REMAINING TRUE TO SIZE ON THE INTERIOR. WHAT WAS YOUR THOUGHT PROCESS BEHIND EACH TRAINER, WAS IT A PINBALL EFFECT OF GOING FROM IDEA-TO-IDEA? OR WAS IT A LIGHT-BULB MOMENT OF SORTS?
Definitely a pinball effect. My brain is all over the place. I’m constantly building a spiderweb and trying to pull things together. I usually can identify when I’m onto something and that usually brings on a tidal wave of more stuff. I kind of have two moods: I either feel stuck, or I’m on a roll.

IN TERMS OF YOUR AUDIENCE AND RECEPTION OF YOUR SNEAKER PREVIEWS, THERE’S VERY MUCH A DIVIDE - ESPECIALLY IN TERMS OF YOUR FORUM HI SNEAKER. CREATIVE DISCOURSE WORKS IN TANDEM WITH SUBJECTIVITY, LARGELY ITS DEPENDENT ON THE AUDIENCE. IF YOU COULD SUMMARISE YOUR OVERARCHING GOALS AND CORE CONCEPTS REGARDING THE IMMINENT RELEASE OF THE FORUM-HI AND SUPERSTUFFED TRAINER, WHAT WOULD THEY BE?
I think just bringing fun to the sneaker industry. I was kind of brought in to shake things up. Push boundaries. Make people feel at first uncomfortable with the introduction of a concept so unusual, and then win them over.

A PROFESSIONAL SHAPESHIFTER WITHIN YOUR ENDEAVOURS, WHAT SETS YOU APART FROM YOUR PEERS IS YOUR DEEPROOTED PLAY IN CREATING EXPERIENCES RATHER THAN FLEETING MOMENTS. WHAT YOU PUT OUT IS SOLELY GENUINE AND WHOLESOME. FROM THE LIMITED RUN OF CASSETTE TAPES PUT OUT ALONGSIDE ADIDAS, COMPLETE WITH AN ENGRAVED PLAYER AND HOLOGRAPHIC COLLECTABLE STICKERS TO HOSTING THE 1ST ANNUAL KERWIN FROST FILM FESTIVAL THAT SAW SEVENTEEN FILMS SHOWN OVER THREE DAYS, COMBINED WITH FREE PIZZA AND ENTRY - BOASTING 2000+ NYC YOUTHS IN ATTENDANCE. WHAT IS IT ABOUT CREATING EXPERIENCES RATHER THAN JUST A QUICK GIMMICK FOR A PAYCHEQUE?
Thank you for this acknowledgement! Honestly, we loose money anytime we create an experience and have never made a payday from any of the events we’ve put together. We love to outperform and executing the right experience is just worth the money. You really show what’s possible and put your money where your mouth is. When I was growing up there would be so many free experiences that I was able to go to and attend and those have shaped me. Anytime possible we love to try and give that back and just give hope. I try to give any project I take on my all and like to think it will make a difference in the long run.

FASHION IS VERY MUCH SOMETHING YOU’RE KNOWN FOR, FROM THE HOOD BY AIR DOUBLE-FACED COWBOY BOOTS, DINGYUN ZHANG AND JEREMY SCOTT. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR APPROACH TO GETTING DRESSED ON ANY GIVEN DAY?
I love dressing up and putting looks together but it’s hard explaining how I do it. I have an embarrassing amount of stuff in my closet. My eyes are kind of able to just scan the room then keep searching for the missing pieces and normally it just works like that. There isn’t really a method to my madness - I just do it.

WHEN INTERVIEWING GUESTS, YOU HAVE THE ABILITY TO DRAW STORIES THAT WEREN’T INTENT ON BEING TOLD. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR APPROACH TO INTERVIEWING YOUR GUESTS ON KERWIN FROST TALKS? ON A SIMILAR NOTE YOU’VE FILMED FOR KANYE - NOTABLY HIS WYOMING LISTENING PARTY. WHAT WAS IT LIKE TO WORK WITH SOMEONE YOU’VE GROWN UP LISTENING TO?
With interviewing I have the privilege of having control over who I’m talking to because I do the booking myself. I’m always really interested in the person, or I won’t have them. I get tons of reach-outs from labels pushing “big” artists on me, but I say no all the time if it doesn’t feel right. I just ask them about things I really want to know about. I’m very similar in real life and will blatantly just ask about things I want to know. I’m really grateful people give me trust with their stories! Those Kanye videos kicked everything off - I always go back to them because they cement a time. The Christmas special is one is my favourite things I’ve done. A true masterpiece.

YOU CREATE WITH LIKE-MINDED PEOPLE, AND CONDUCT YOURSELF IN A VERY ORGANIC WAY. WHAT IS IT LIKE TO BE GIVEN SUCH UNPRECEDENTED TRUST IN THE WAY YOU INTERPRET THE WORLD AROUND YOU?
SH**’S CRAZY! I think about that all the time. I have the greatest job. Getting to be able to pay respect to my predecessors and spotlight cool sh**t for others to appreciate is an incredible thing I get to do.

ON THE SUBJECT OF POP CULTURE, WHAT DO YOU THINK HAS BEEN A PIVOTAL MOMENT IN CURRENT CULTURE? WHAT HAS STUCK OUT FOR YOU AND LEFT A LASTING IMPRESSION, ESPECIALLY DURING THE PANDEMIC WHERE THINGS SEEMINGLY CAME TO A STANDSTILL? DO YOU THINK CREATIVITY FLOURISHED AND EVOLVED, GENERALLY SPEAKING?
So many pivotal moments! I think everybody and every business had to re-adjust and re-learn new ways of being creative and marketing things. I produced and hosted a Telethon last August, and we had to figure out how to do an in-person virtual festival dead in the middle of a pandemic. We had to think of so many workarounds. It’s a good thing though, and I think everyone approaches creativity with a fresh standpoint now which is cool to see.

YOUR MUSIC MIXES ARE AN ART FORM IN THEIR OWN RIGHT. THE WAY YOU DISSECT MUSIC AND SEW IT BACK TOGETHER TAKES THE AUDIENCE ON A TRIP. COULD YOU VERBALLY ILLUSTRATE THE WAY IN WHICH YOU WORK WITH SOUND?
I love love love this question! Working with sound is my favourite thing to do. I look at everything I do like a DJ set. A melting pot. It’s very inclusive. And I take my favourite things I’m feeling at the time and mesh them all together in a very honest way rather than in a way that looks at how it’s traditionally done. But I also try not to think about it too hard. Each episode of Kerwin Frost Radio on Apple Music is like a diary entry. Super emotional for me.

The arrival of 2020 would unite Frost with the iconic powerhouse Adidas, announcing a longterm partnership. Through Spring 2021, with a sneaker release imminently approaching, Frost would go on to showcase the star attraction of the debut collection. The SUPERSTUFFED sneaker, a take on the classic shell-toe trainer enveloped by a silhouette five-times bigger than the shoe itself; whilst still remaining true to size on the interior.

Closely followed by Frosts Forum-Hi trainer, a restructured high-top sneaker with an altogether redeveloped genetic code; boasting a pair of eyes, nose, teeth, and hair. Frosts partnership with Adidas travels far beyond colour-way play, he is remodelling and conceptualising our preconceived notions of what iconic Adidas staples should be. Sculpting pieces that wouldn’t go amiss among a museum collection. Frost symbolises a bonafide expression of creativity unbound by the norm, designing garments that make people feel genuinely happy and comfortable within their own skin.

+ NOMOS Classic Tangente neomatik platinum grey is available in diameters of 35 and 39 millimetres

The dial is plated with rhodium, a platinum metal that provides a striking grey hue. Rhodium-plated, needle-thin hands accentuate the harmonious design and are visible at a glance. As is so often the case with NOMOS Glashütte, this design is gender-neutral, size being the only difference.

The delicate, golden neomatik lettering under the manufacturer's signet enhances the brilliance of the platinum grey dial and refers to the work of the watchmakers and engineers: the in-house automatic calibre DUW 3001 is not merely precise, it is also very slender. If you choose the sapphire crystal glass back, you can observe the bidirectional winding rotor and the finely decorated movement in operation. For the first time ever, Tangente neomatik is now also available with steel back — making the watch more affordable.

shop yours in store or online nomos-glashuette.com
follow @nomos_glashuette

Enter the vast and vibrant world of VEERT, a green-tinged, genderless lifestyle brand delivering endless inspiration along with boundary-breaking jewelry and lifestyle accoutrements. At the center of this surging brand is founder, Julia Lang—a Tanzanian-German entrepreneur and unstoppable force of nature meticulously crafting the vision and impressive growth of a truly special company.

The NYC-based label VEERT only debuted in November 2020, but its pieces are already favorites of megastars like A$AP Rocky, Maluma, The Weeknd, Swizz Beatz, Nas, just to name a few.

Lang is currently set to drop Collection 4, VEERT’s biggest and most comprehensive offering to date. It’s a thoughtfully conceived collection of 30 stellar unisex items including: necklaces, spike earrings, bracelets, rosaries, ornate key chains, rings, and lots more. All the pieces are offered in solid 18K gold and 18K gold vermeil options, and per usual, precious healing stones and alluring materials like green onyx, peridot, malachite, amethyst and freshwater pearls are heavily featured.

Striking, clear shapes such as squares, rectangles, diamonds, and circles made of brushed silver or gold: German goldsmith Anna-Lena Steidle specifically focuses on timeless unisex designs in her creations, which can be combined with each other as desired due to their purist design language. "The ability to combine all jewelry pieces with each other is essential to the DNA of the label," says the designer herself.

Behind the label, ANNALENASTEIDLE is a small one-woman business. In her small old building studio with the light planked floor in Hamburg Ottensen, the goldsmith manufactures each piece of jewelry individually.

In order to avoid overproduction and not waste any materials, each accessory is created only after it has been ordered. In her collections, the designer attaches great importance to high-quality materials, the origin of which she takes a close look at. In this way, recycled gold is used to create timeless pieces of jewelry for eternity that can be passed on to the next generations. 

Designer Rita Balta founded Bal Designs in 2014. The brand believes in a healthy environment and in high-quality products. Bal Designs is convinced that slow fashion and everybody´s sustainable consumption can have a strong impact on the environment.

concept & styling Rita Balta
photographed by Liusjenas Kulbis
Model Jociute

The brand obtains its basketballs from local schools and sports clubs. In this way, they not only create beautiful bags but first of all clean up the environment in which we live and work. They then proceed with the collected balls in their workshops in Cologne.

Each Bal Designs bag is handmade, unique, and tells its own story. Their customers spend a lot of time looking for the perfect bag because the joy of the bag lasts for eternity.

behind the scene images by BAL DESIGNS

concept & styling Rita Balta
photographed by Tom Edelkind
Model Jamil

Quality over quantity. As the world hopefully moves away from fast fashion and towards more sustainable product consumption Saphir Médaille d’Or products are a great companion. We help to prolong the lifetime of your favourite leather pieces, be that your favourite pair of loafers or the little clutch bag you took on your first date.

Since being awarded the médaille d’or at the 1925 Universal exhibition in Paris, Saphir continues to use the same time-honoured formulas as part of its range today.

As we welcome the 4th generation into the family business, we are proud to continue to provide superior quality shoes care and accessories, made from high-quality ingredients and with a sustainable vision at our core.

Respect for tradition is very close to our hearts. Much like your own skin, leather needs to be moisturised in order to maintain a good appearance. Good quality leather goods can last an indefinite amount of time if regularly cared for and nourished with our products, evolving and maturing with their owner.

+ Creative direction Lina Kutsovskaya
+ Photographer Tyrone Lebon
+ Stylist Lotta Volkova

A provocative play between innocence and experience, an ageless wardrobe, an atmosphere of disorientation and a world difficult to define prevails. Here are clothes to work, play and dance in, wherever and whoever the person wearing them may be. In this way, the clothes are an extension of the self, and the self is expressive of a free spirit, of a community of like-minded beings who identify with each other through a celebration of individuality – a celebration of style.

Ann Cathrin November Høibo, Melted Heart, 2022

The artworks are conceived to be displayed alongside the McQueen pieces they relate to in a temporary installation designed to showcase the individual approaches and the ways in which artworks and looks interact.

For the first time since the Soulland introduced womenswear, the mens- and womenswear lines have been merged to one gender free collection.

The storytelling for SS23 is the first chapter in a new trilogy. The collection’s inspiration is about an imaginary house with different inhabitants. The foundation for the materials in the collection is Soulland’s Family of Fabrics; a group of 15 fabrics that are responsible, versatile, and high quality. These are fabrics that have become part of Soulland’s DNA and the starting point for every collection. Li-Ning’s expertise in high performance technology as well as the brand’s ongoing inspiration taken from the world of sports and Mr. Li Ning himself, perfectly pair with Soulland’s aesthetic and design direction of founder and creative director Silas Oda Adler. Both brands are propelled by a shared passion for sports, storytelling and building a global community of dedicated individuals with a passion for running, pre- inter and post.

Through this partnership, Li-Ning marks its debut at Pitti Imagine Uomo. The show featured apparel and footwear from PRE-INTER-POST, the running focused premium collaborative project. This season’s updated running footwear models, the Shadow & the Furious Rider 6, due to launch globally on June 25th, were shown in a special spray-painted silver iteration. The show also provided a first sneak peek to Soulland’s upcoming lifestyle collab with Li-Ning’s premium range ‘China Li-Ning’ which is shown through customization techniques and key footwear models: the Yun You Slay slide, the Exceed Infinity.

The brand's Resort 2023 collection is based on a story of contrasts, with designs that are inspired by a hyper-contemporary, confident attitude. Fashion is created through encounters and clashes that lead to change: a reaction in which opposite elements come together to create something new and exciting.

The nineteenth-century formality of Queen Victoria's England is conveyed through language that is written in tones of monochrome and with a lot of black mixed in with various shades of white. The look is completed with sober, high collars that are softened with small ruffles, while conquering puffed sleeves are enhanced with bracelets that sit above the elbow and skirts that flare out into fanciful orbs. The psychedelic colors, patterns, and lines of the 1960s and 1970s are featured prominently in a style that is energetic and colorful. This style is characterized by bold graphics, knitwear in oversized volumes, and surprises like flares or slits.

An aesthetic cacophony is magnified by the presence of PJ Harvey, an absolute experimenter capable of navigating the oceans of different cultural solicitations.The English singer and musician is traversed by her own irrepressible desire for freedom, strength, and dissent. Disseminating a mood where provocation is never the defining element but serves rather as an instrument of knowledge and self-affirmation.

For Sportmax, having contrasting elements is what provides energy and creativity to empower the different aspects of the feminine spirit. This can only be done by having elements that don't go together, which then creates a new style.

Our planet has as many grains of sand as there are stars in the galaxy, yet to a child, this vastness is never daunting. It is an invitation to opportunity. In sandboxes and on beaches, children build sandcastles: structures born of their imagination that turn dreams into reality. For the Spring-Summer 2023 Spin-Off show in Aranya – designed by the Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme – the Maison builds on the idea of the magnified playground first introduced in Paris in June.

The Mirage prelude, a collaborative effort by Chinese directors Jia Zhangke and Wei Shujun, who also serve as directors of the show, explores themes of childhood, discovery, and community. The prelude was filmed in Dunhuang, on the edge of the Gobi Desert, which was once a frontier garrison on the Silk Road. The story transports its viewers to Aranya beach, where the live show unfolds in a sandscape created with the tools that are the foundation of a collection based on the limitless possibilities of craftsmanship.

The essence of Louis Vuitton is imagination. It is a visible representation of our aspirations and ideals, possessing the ability to revive, renew and inspire us. The Spring-Summer 2023 Men’s collection was designed and created by the Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme: a continuously developing community of imaginative individuals, who welcomed Virgil Abloh to the Maison in 2018 and expanded during his eight seasons of artistic direction. A living proof of his ability to bring people together, they populate a creative playground with a history of over a century.

The Louis Vuitton studio is built on the belief that imagination and creativity can unite people from all corners of the world. This philosophy drives the Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme, and it is the foundation on which Virgil Abloh built his practice at the Maison. As a community of creatives who have shared a monumental experience, they approach the Spring-Summer 2023 Men’s collection as a cathartic process—a proposal created in the spirit of all the human minds that make Louis Vuitton what it is.

AVAVAV presents its new collection of ready-to-wear and accessories that explore the concepts of success and failure. The collection was inspired by money and the pursuit of it, and features bling-out swimsuits with dollar-shaped emblems, sheath dresses with the brand's familiar logo, oversized hoodies and jackets, shoulder pads, and crafted denim.

credits_
seen by Federico Pompei
Courtesy of AVAVAV

more online avavav.com

The first part of the Chloé Fall/Winter 2022/2023 collection focuses on rewilding, which is a way of letting nature take care of itself. Now the new presented Spring/Summer 2023 collection is focusing on fusion energy, which is a way of making energy from stars. Scientists think that fusion energy could be used to power homes for a very long time, and now there are new advances in technology that could make fusion energy possible.

“In this chapter of climate success, the focus of our research was fusion energy as a large-scale, peaceful, clean energy source. […] The energy that moves our universe will, in the not so distant future, help power our world and solve many of our concerns today […]”

Gabriela Hearst, Chloé Creative Director

Gabriela Hearst and the Chloé design team researched how to combine different materials together, speaking to experts and visiting different places. ITER is a project that many countries are working on together to create a large machine that can produce energy from fusion. The SS23 show space was created with the help of an artist, who made a light installation based on the ITER project's symbol.

The Ready-to-Wear collection includes items made by Akanjo and Creative Handicrafts. Akanjo, which is certified by the World Fair Trade Organisation (WFTO), has been working with Chloé for over 15 years. Akanjo is based in Madagascar and provides training and support to local craftspeople. Creative Handicrafts is a social enterprise based in Mumbai that helps women achieve economic independence. All profits are reinvested to benefit women producers. The social mission of the company is overseen by the board of directors and management.

“I would like nuclear fusion to become a practical power source. It would provide an inexhaustible supply of energy, without pollution or global warming.”

Professor Stephen Hawking

The ISSEY MIYAKE Spring/Summer 2023 collection, A Form That Breathes, was presented on September 30 in Paris. The collection is based on an exploration of making sculptures. By experiencing the creative process—the freedom of shaping and forming with one’s own hands—the collection incorporates ideas, elements, and textures inspired by the sculpting process to develop original garment forms. Each piece of clothing created this way is a sculpture made of fabric that seems rigid at first, but turns into a soft, fluid form as soon as it moves, so lively as if it is about to breathe.

The TORSO series for Spring Summer 2023 is defined by its striking sculptural form. The design team crafted the torso shape out of one piece of fabric, making it both firm and flexible. The three-dimensional silhouette and draping effect is achieved by putting the garment on, like a sculpture coming to life.

The TORSO JUXTAPOSE features prints in bold colors, applied by hand to the same fabric as the TORSO series. The print has a thick, textured look, inspired by the stately appearance of a sculpture. The R COAT and R SHIRT are designed with sleek lines from the shoulders to the cuffs. The R COAT is made of a lightweight, stretchy fabric that is water-resistant for great function. The R SHIRT is made with cotton on the outside and special nylon stretch yarn on the inside that is soft and fine. To add volume on the shoulders, piping tape made from extra fabric is sewn on to create a curved look that goes down to the cuffs.

The clothing brand NUDE created a line of knitwear inspired by sculptures of the human body. The inner panels of the clothing are made with sheer yarn, creating a draping and three-dimensional effect in a straight silhouette. The items can also be worn backwards, allowing them to be enjoyed from various angles, like viewing a sculpture.

The SCULPTURES line of jewelry features designs based on a series of sculptures. The design team used 3D scanning to reduce the size of the sculptures so they could be worn as jewelry. The jewelry is made of brass and/or tin alloy, which faithfully reproduces the delicate forms of the original sculptures.

You can find ISSEY MIYAKE's upcoming Spring Summer 2023 collection on their website, along with the full runway show featuring garments that are designed to look like sculptures.

Alexander McQueen has unveiled its new Spring/Summer 2023 collection at the British Fashion Council's new London Fashion Week. The inspiration for the collection came from the search for humanity.

“The search for humanity and human connection is part of this collection. This collection is about searching for humanity and human connection. The eye is a symbol of that humanity, a register of emotion, an expression of uniqueness. Our clothes are designed to empower. They are stripped back, dissected and focused on cut, drape and silhouette. We also looked at the work of Hieronymus Bosch, at once dark and beautiful.”

Sarah Burton, Creative Director

This collection is about finding humanity and companionship. It is said that the eye is a symbol of humanity, an indicator of feelings, and a representation of individuality. The clothing is designed to give strength. They are simple, analyzed, and concentrated on shape, curves, and the outline. Sarah Burton and her cohorts also took a gander at the work of Hieronymus Bosch and found inspiration in the artist's unique dark and beautiful aesthetic.

The collection by Creative Director Sarah Burton, known as First Sight, includes a total of 41 looks. These range from subtle to eye-catching and were complemented with glittery accessories and bold colors. Although the collection's color palette was primarily black, Spring/Summer 2023 also featured shimmers of blue and red, highlighted by dramatic prints and raffia fringe.

The collection focused on the figure. Classic dresses like the tuxedo or the corset were reworked through cuts, playing with proportions and adding textures.

Additionally, all of DETJER's furniture is made from sustainable materials, so you can feel good knowing that your purchase is helping to protect the environment. All of their handcrafted chairs, cabinets, and other pieces are made from Mindi wood. This timber comes from oak trees that are grown on plantations in Indonesia and is known for its beautiful grain. Furthermore, all of their handcrafted furniture is FLEGT (Forest Law Enforcement, Governance and Trade) marked, which means that the wood has been recognized by the EU as being legally sourced and compliant with the European Timber Regulation.

Always respectfully.
Always made to last.

The brand DETJER has always been interested in interior design, so they decided to venture in that direction. A friend of theirs invited them to visit a workshop in Indonesia where craftspeople build beautiful, handmade furniture. They fell in love with the minimalist design in the 1950s Chandigarh style and the production process. Detjer was born out of their love for this trade and the environment, and it was established in 2019.

Their designs are known for being timeless and elegant, and the Chandigarh Chair is no exception. The Chandigarh Chair was designed by Danish architect and designer Pierre Jeanneret in the 1950s. It is a simple, yet stylish and comfortable chair that is perfect for any home. The chair is made of teak and has a natural finish that makes it look even more elegant. What makes the Chandigarh Chair so timeless and elegant is its simplicity. It is a well-designed piece of furniture that will never go out of style.

Known for its powerful silhouettes and unique statement prints, MARCELL VON BERLIN is a match made in heaven for lemilestudios. In their latest collaboration, sharply tailored suits juxtapose deconstructed urban landscapes, and Old Hollywood glamour creates glitz within utilitarian architecture.

Each piece builds on itself, culminating in an excitingly bold body of work. From refreshing West Coast vibes to the electric Berlin underground, the creative strength of each choice fashions a unifying look that passes from city to city. The Runway Collection is particularly insp-ired by the glamorous and powerful city mixed with the earthy desert landscape of Palm Springs, California.

MARCELL VON BERLIN’s Collections are available on their website and in their flagship stores.

credits_  
all images (c) MARCELL VON BERLIN   
produced by lemilestudios, 2022

credits_Campaign productionphotographer and director   Daniel Rochédirector of photography   Franz Beckerstyling   Sina Braetz    

producer   Alban E. Smajli    creative coordination   Tim Jahn     fashion director   Ginevra Valenteproduction   lemilestudios     digital operator   Alex Craddock    gaffer   Arne Vossfeldt make up   Kenny Campbell    hair   Konsuke Ikeuchi models   Gwen Lu Viva ModelsStacia Roz Izaio ModelsJacek Kaluta Unocver Models    

credits_Lookbook productionphotographer   Luis Cruzadodirector of photography   Sergio Gonzálezstyling   Abraham Gutiérrez  

producer   Alban E. Smajli    creative coordination   Tim Jahn     fashion director   Ginevra Valenteproduction   lemilestudios     gaffer   Q17 Studios    set designer   Eduardo Boillos make up   Gino Mateus   casting director   Fernando Merinomodels   Joan Kadiri, Fifth ModelsMaría Peña Asensio, Uno Models   Souleymane Bah, Uno ModelsMei Ruiz, Uno ModelsNayeli Cueto, View ManagementEsperanza López Gallego, View ManagementNikeisha Navarro, View Management

Aarke is a Swedish design company founded in 2013 by two experienced industrial designers and friends, Jonas Groth and Carl Ljungh. From their studio and workshop in Stockholm, they conceptualize premium household products designed to improve everyday routines.

Their first product, the Aarke Carbonator, took the world by storm and can now be found on kitchen counters in more than 30 countries. But that was just the beginning.

“If you interact with something e-v-e-r-y-d-a-y, the experience has to be smooth. Years of tweaking dampers and adjusting gas springs led to what we think is the most satisfying carbonation experience yet”

Carl Ljungh, Co-Founder & Chief Product Officer at Aarke

The Carbonator Pro is the first and only glass-bottled sparkling water maker where the entire process of sparkling is done with one hand. Aarke's Push-to-Lock (TM) solution allows for one-handed operation, offering a combination of a push-down bottle cover and a self-locking feature. To ensure that the Carbonator Pro will perform over the long term, Aarke engineers developed a robot that puts it to the test for over 10,000 cycles as part of the product development process. This equates to 27 years or more of use.

shop yours in store or online aarke.com
follow @aarke

AYTM was founded in 2015 by Kathrine & Per Gran Hartvigsen and in this relatively short time, AYTM has manifested itself to the world as a modern, elegant and edgy Danish design & interior brand.

The most important element of the AYTM brand is design. In their design philosophy, there are several keywords that indicate what to expect from AYTM products. These include originality, Nordic look, quality, simplicity, luxury, elegance, color and material. Every single product from AYTM are original designs that has been thoroughly worked through.

„We are still trying to do the Scandinavian style in a new & more international and luxurious looking way.“

Kathrine Gran Hartvigsen
Co—Founder of AYTM

.BRAND DNA
Set the Atmosphere with *RUBN

Lighting design should be minimalistic, Bauhaus-inspired, and high quality. It should be simple, sustainable, clean, and elegant. Lighting should be used to create a warm and inviting atmosphere. It should be functional and stylish.

RUBN is a unique brand that focuses on handmade pieces with the highest levels of precision and detail.

Light design is an important aspect of any home, office, or open space and there are many different styles to choose from. Minimalist light fixtures are perfect for those who want a clean and modern look, while Bauhaus-inspired designs add a touch of vintage charm. For a truly unique look, opt for Scandinavian-inspired light fixtures, which are known for their high quality and attention to detail.
No matter what your personal style may be, there is a light design that will suit your needs perfectly. RUBN Lighting is an innovative lighting company that has made a significant name for itself in the lighting industry.

The lighting industry is constantly evolving and RUBN is committed to keeping up with the latest trends. Its lighting is also popular because it is affordable and easy to install. RUBN Lighting offers a wide variety of lighting products that are sure to meet the needs of any customer, including table lamps, floor lamps, ceiling lights, wall sconces, and outdoor lights. Their designs are available in a variety of finishes, including brass, copper, nickel, or chrome, and a wide range of glass options, including clear, frosted, and colored glass.

RUBN is unusual as every single piece is handmade. Every detail is made with precision and care. The brand is a synonym for quality and one-of-a-kind items.

The company's aspiration is to give the client the elation of experiencing the perfect balance between material, design, and functionality. To accomplish this, the company uses state-of-the-art technology and the finest materials to generate items that are both aesthetically pleasing and useful. So the result is an array of products that are not only trendy but also practical and can be enjoyed by anyone.

Perfectly elegant for everyday wear, it acts as a decorative accessory for an evening gown. In short, it is the little black dress - for the wrist. A watch that wants to celebrate, socialize and be in the spotlight.

The hand-wound caliber (movement with manual winding, 100 individual components, 17 jewels, and several specialties of watchmaking from Glashütte) is designed to last. The brushed stainless steel case and sapphire crystal disc are polished reminiscent of old pocket watches. The case is only 33 millimeters in diameter, has a sapphire crystal or stainless steel case back, and is secured with a fine strap made of velvet leather. As for Ludwig? Certainly, an unusual name for a lady's watch, but that makes the model more interesting.

Roland Schwertner founded the watch manufactory NOMOS Glashütte in 1990. Today it is the largest German manufacturer of mechanical watches. NOMOS Glashütte develops and manufactures exclusively its own calibers; each watch is created in-house.

Nestled away in a quaint corner of the city lies a secret design studio, home to a group of young and talented designers. Their mission: to create beautiful, minimalistic designs that are both smart and sustainable.

From the vibrant colors of their cushions to the sleek lines of their shelves, noo.ma has something for everyone. You can find furniture for the bedroom, living room, or even just a small corner in your home; there is something for every decor. Their accessories are also a must-have. From stylish vases to unique coffee tables, noo.ma has something for every occasion. Their products have become the talk of the town, with people from all over Europe raving about their designs. With their unique approach to furniture and accessories, noo.ma is quickly becoming a global sensation. It is no wonder that this Polish start-up brand is quickly becoming one of the most sought-after names in the industry.

Ah, noo.ma! A name that brings a smile to our faces and joy to our hearts.