McQueen SS25 Campaign

McQueen SS25
*The Banshee's Unrelenting Cry

written MONICA DE LUNA

Llansteffan Castle, weathered and elemental, carries the weight of centuries. The McQueen Spring/Summer 2025 campaign unfolds within its walls, where shadows and movement intertwine.

Directed and shot by Glen Luchford, the imagery captures an unsettling presence, raw and electric. Seán McGirr channels the banshee, an ancient force woven into Irish folklore. A figure neither seen nor ignored, she moves with intent, her voice uncontained.

McQueen SS25 Ad Campaign
seen by GLEN LUCHFORD
creative directed SEÁN McGIRR

“She embodies a sense of strident self-expression that resonates now,”

Seán McGirr

Fabric carries the weight of mythology. Tailoring shifts its structure, fabric unravels—cobweb lace, pleated chiffon, silk creponne, and shredded silk organza. Silvered grey and ivory set the tone, punctuated by bursts of yellow and orange. Accessories manifest as relics; jewelry holds the presence of something once whispered and now declared.

Movement defines the collection. Figures navigate castle corridors and windswept shores, their silhouettes precise, their presence unwavering. Meshach Henry directs each motion with a purpose that transcends choreography. Hair carries the air’s charge, makeup enhances the stark clarity of the vision—Gary Gill and Daniel Sallstrom sculpt forms that resist containment.

Sound shapes the atmosphere. The post-punk resonance of Heartworms’ Consistent Dedication cuts through the visual landscape, its synths and vocals channeling something instinctual. The score becomes an extension of the campaign’s pulse, threading itself through each frame.

McQueen SS25 moves with force. The banshee does not linger. She calls forward.

Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 *Fashion Showcase

*New Collections
MFW Spring/Summer 2025
In Milan, Form and Function Run Apace

written Chidozie Obasi

This season’s show brought a poised twist on classic, with a sweet, daring vein in clothes that maintain a dynamic rigour.

MOSCHINO

Individuals, characters, humanity. The second Moschino fashion show designed by creative director Adrian Appiolaza is an expression of the uniqueness of people. Each look, like each person, lives individually and has something of its own to express. The collection is an exploration of sorts: exploring the world and the mind, exploring Moschino.

A passage from the urban chaos of the city to discover paradise in the literal sense and personal freedom.Moschino's characters are explorers moving between different spaces, ideas and ideals, escaping life through escapism. There is something positive - something beautiful - in getting lost, in finding places you never knew existed. Traditional tailoring loses its restrictions and boundaries. It is transformed, deconstructed and then reconstructed.

The rules on how to dress according to Franco Moschino, written on a fax machine featured in the Spring-Summer 1995 collection, are shredded to become a new form of "fur for fun" in a white Tyvek fur. Escaping the city, individuals true to their principles wear clothes that speak of the Italian countryside, the jungle wilderness, and finally a serenity that leads to inner peace. Lost, then found again. Symbols, glimpses and memories from Moschino's archives in an ongoing exchange with Franco's ethos. There are the prints of the 1990s reinterpreted, reworked and loved anew. Daisies, soccer balls, gravy stains left by a pizza, and the Italian flag. Twisted trench coats, lingerie dresses, "assemblages" of garments to create new ones. The "Survival Jacket" from the Spring-Summer 1992 collection is reinterpreted first for urban life, then for the great escape.

see more looks from MOSCHINO SS25

HENRIK VIBSKOV

Henrik Vibskov introduced The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance for SS25, a collection that harmonises the elegance of human empathy with the adaptive genius of the animal kingdom. The outing was inspired by the profound theme of hands; the ultimate symbols of assistance, compassion, and adaptability. The collection is also inspired by the natural world's marvels of adaptation and assistance, mirroring the transformative abilities of the octopus, which can morph its shape and colour to blend seamlessly into its surroundings. Their whole body is a large neural network that creates a web of understanding and feeling, and its many limbs could lend you many hands at the same time.

Let’s embrace the mutability, re-examine our past behaviours and adapt to create actionable goals to improve the future. The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance features fluid silhouettes, morphed patterns, and versatile garments that embody the themes. By dissecting the classic check; a jacquard woven chequered fabric has morphed with ocean motifs, and in a chequered knit the pattern dissolves completely. Hands are represented in prints - little fingers supporting you, chopped factory fingers, analogue gloves. Peace offering messages are hidden in the corners. Grey outline fingers is an exclusively developed textile, with a smock-like crinkle that resembles intertwined fingers, making use of a 30-year-old archive materials from Dutel.

Henrik Vibskov
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) HENRIK VIBSKOV

FENDI

Silvia Venturini Fendi, Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear, considers FENDI as a travelling time capsule mirroring decades and destinations, with Italian craftsmanship as its forever North star. The Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is an homage to the universal – sublimating House codes that predate the first men’s silhouette revealed at FENDI in 1990. Today, that wardrobe’s pillars become sartorial puzzle pieces, activating soft expressions of contemporary masculinity through the lens of modern luxury. Once emblematic of an international elite, the notion of uniforms for work and play are deconstructed and dreamed anew in powdery shades: a mineral palette of sherbet and mist, ivory, caramel and buttermilk mingle with soft blues and natural indigo, black and forest green. Somewhere between sports and ceremony, the idea of the FENDI Club emerges – its crest1 proudly emblazoned like a fantasy coat-of-arms on breast pocket and button.

From head to toe, the collection revels in the virtuosity of the Selleria stitch, a technique passed to the Fendi family by Roman master saddlers in 1925. Scaled up and down, it is re-interpreted as a broken pinstripe suiting jacquard and threaded as a stripe or tonal FF logo through linen and plush textures, applied as a surface on Japanese boro denim, or reduced to a minimalist frame on crisp wool outerwear and leathergoods.

see more looks from FENDI SS25

FENDI
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) FENDI

DSQUARED2

For Spring/Summer 2025, twin creative masterminds Dean and Dan Caten turn up the heat while bringing a renewed sense of focus to their vision of maximal multiplicity for Dsquared2. The brand hones in on a sense of duality - between elegance and edge, softness and strength - but in doing so, creates one of their most unexpected, exciting, and undeniably sexy fashion mashups yet. It is a liberated community of artists, athletes, and aesthetes, an underground milieu that is poetry salon, wrestling league, and kink scene all in one.
As always, the collection’s spirit of freeing multiplicity has its basis in Dean and Dan’s signature penchant for synthesising innovative material treatments and imaginative details with cross-genre references to fringe fashion subcultures. For Spring/Summer 2025, this practice takes shape as a particularly focused intersection of elegance and edge.

Sheer chiffons cascade poetically around the body, but reveal skin-tight bondage harnesses or barely-there bralettes beneath. Denim peels away into sculptural latex. Asymmetrical sheer jersey tanks are treated with laminating techniques, balancing brutalist geometry and soft bodily harmony. Laces coil up legs, holding outer garments together but exposing the skin beneath. Broad-shouldered suits with voluminous pleated pants reference 80s workday ensembles, while leather biker jackets and thick-soled studded creepers suggest that same stylish character’s nocturnal alter ego.
The colour palette, too, embodies a spirit of poetic softness anchored by the strength of desire.

DSQUARED2
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) DSQUARED2

see more looks from DSQUARED2 SS25

MSGM

Lines and horizons that connect archipelagos, Mediterranean perspectives of new routes, both real and imaginary. Painted, printed, woven, they bind summer memories, loves on the sand, afternoon siestas, sponge-like dreams. Turquoise, straw yellow, black, along with classic cream, red, and blue, but also sharp and acidic stripes, sharpen forms and movements. We dress and dream in a nautical style. Colours dripping, hues chasing each other, vibrating with music. Lobster and sideral blue shine on printed linens, colourful zippers become borders of freedom of forms.

Faded, tie-dye dissolves winter melancholies. Dolphins, crabs, and mermaids are games on the sand, stencils or carefree paintings in the warm summer afternoons of our childhood, appearing and disappearing on the textures. We play with clichés, knots become dresses, the sun becomes macramé in a new silhouette. Sailors in love, hinted at, desired, through light gestures and dissolving watercolours by Luke Edward Hall. Origami hats like fragile memories, materialise in jacquards and prints in blue and red. Umbrellas and deckchairs, of a sea that becomes a city, whose stripes transform into substantial waves, details, inlays in ajour memories.

MSGM
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) MSGM

MAGLIANO

This collection is dedicated to those tender and fleeting memories that catch up to us like unexpected storms. Memory turns archeological: reminiscences become fossil traces, analysed simply for what they are. Silhouettes are finally essential, at times gaunt, like in the memories of the 2000s. White, black and the greys in between. Classics are modular thanks to folk or beach-like additions. In the free beach, of Magliano coats are integrated by towels, trousers are swimwear, evening wear. Clothes assume crazy functions, or dysfunctions, as they brush against fantasy. The microscopic is now magnified: creating structure and decorative patterns. The knot, the intersection, the clasp of two allergic things but persistent in coming together.

The extremities of the clothes rattle and muddle: here lies the intrinsic nature of the project that, as usual, prefers the interwoven complexity of the reverse to the clear drawing of the straightforward. Childhood, a puzzle of unlimited limits, is evoked through the cross-stitch. Interpreted like a political medium, it composes strings of google searches, from poetry to porn, fragments of notable identities. Also the Cormio/Magliano embroidered sweaters hold the same weight, everything but naïve, exemplifying the symbol of an unconditional alliance between colleagues. The hero of the season is Pinocchio, a superlative symbol of trans-formation.

MAGLIANO
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) MAGLIANO

Marine Serre SS25 at Pitti Uomo

*New Collection
Marine Serre SS25
A Celebration of Grace and Love

written Chidozie Obasi

Marine Serre embarked on a new journey, as the guest designer of Pitti Uomo 106, bringing the runway and the guests outside of Paris for the first time to Florence, Italy.

A passport cover with the signature airbrushed moon pattern was crafted by the renowned local atelier Cuoio di Toscana. By masking the nationalities of the guests with the invitation, the Maison intends to embrace the idea of “Citizens of the World”, leading to the title of the Show. This collection featured both menswear and womenswear showcasing sartorial luxury affair combined with glamorous femininity and the golden age of Italian cinema, blending craftsmanship and Haute Couture sophistication with a tribute to local savoir-faire. The show was set in the Villa di Maiano, a historical estate built in the 15th century.

This unique venue underscores the collection’s splendour and timeless elegance. Located five kilometres from the centre of Florence, it seems to exist in a peaceful world of its own, immersed in the lush green of the hills overlooking the city.

At sunset, the audience is welcomed by the sound of a live orchestral band, offering a ceremonial atmosphere to the set. The opening piece of the show epitomises the quintessence of the brand, transcending temporal and cultural boundaries to set the tone for the inaugural ensemble: an elevated interpretation of glamour and grace. A dramatic couture crinoline, paired with an artfully crafted top adorned with vintage jewellery, makes a striking statement. Following are two impeccably tailored black men’s suits: a nod to Italian elegance.

A majestic cocktail dress, featuring a contrasting lilac jersey hood drapery and tan mesh patchwork, embodies the signature Marine Serre hybridization approach. Finally, the introductory section culminates with purple glossy leather silhouettes, seamlessly transitioning into the second chapter of the show. Heavily inspired by the golden age of crime fiction in cinema, the following looks offer a fierce and bold reinterpretation of the archetypes. Dominated by a striking black and red palette, the collection features a dynamic mix of sartorial silhouettes and sensuous airbrushed leather, evocative of the late seventies allure. This aesthetic is seamlessly blended with post-industrial attitudes.

MARINE SERRE
SS 2025 Runway
during
PITTI UOMO

A camel version of the airbrushed leather total look heralds a new chapter in this journey through vibrant daily silhouettes, reviving hallmark materials of the brand: upcycled tartan scarves and cotton tote bags, signature silk scarves ingeniously twisted and encased in mesh fabric. Regenerated denim is also reimagined, traversing to the Far West with leather embellishments and culminating in an exquisite couture dress. New regenerated materials also make their debut like this cotton padded comfort poplin pieces and innovative designs crafted from upcycled tennis bags.

all images
(c) MARINE SERRE during PITTI UOMO 2024

Paul Smith SS25 PITTI 2024

*New Collection
Paul Smith SS 2025
The shifting harmonies of Britishness

written Chidozie Obasi

In a big shift, Paul Smith returned to Pitti Uomo in Florence to debut its Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Presented by Sir Paul himself, he spoke to audiences by talking through the ‘60s-inspired designs.

Nestled in the sumptuous settings of Villa Favard, a gorgeously ornate 19th century compound in the heart of Florence, it was transformed into Bar Paul: a tribute to the Italian cafes that Paul frequented in Soho in the 1960s. Typically open all night, these cafes were a place for people to go after the likes of the Scene Club, Flamingo Club, and Whiskey-A-Go-Go had closed for the evening. Naturally, they drew a bohemian crowd of musicians, artists, and designers who helped to make Soho the epicenter of the creative world at that moment in time. The presentation space will be set up with cafe tables complete with ‘Bar Paul’ branded items such as napkins, coffee cups, sugar packets, and match boxes, to evoke those after-hours meetups of Soho’s artistic circle.

The collection itself expanded upon this theme, with a pleasingly louche and tactile approach to tailoring. Ties are worn loosely knotted, paired with denim chore jackets and unstructured blazers in cotton canvas – a look which suggests an artist heading to dinner straight from a day’s painting in the studio. Suits are cut from classic houndstooth and Prince of Wales fabrics, bringing to mind London in the ‘60s, while outerwear uses bold statement fabrics to eye-catching effect. One collection highlight – an oversized trench coat – is constructed from a custom Italian cloth with an exploded pastel check design, based on the Paul Smith Signature Stripe.

Paul Smith
Spring/Summer 2025

see more looks

Soho stalwarts Francis Bacon and Lucien Freud provide key inspiration, and this painterly influence is reflected back into the presentation space with art materials provided by Winsor & Newton. Seating throughout the venue was provided by Artek, in the form of their iconic Stool 60.

all images
SS 2025 during PITTI 2024 (c) Paul Smith

Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2025

*New Collection
Emporio Armani SS 2025
Embracing Boundless Horizons

written Amanda Mortenson

The Emporio Armani’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a breath of fresh air, taking the quintessential Armani man out of the urban jungle and into the heart of nature.

Gone are the constraints of city life. Instead, the Emporio Armani man saddles up and ventures into the open, rediscovering a life that syncs with the natural elements. The horizon is no longer a skyline of steel and glass, but a landscape of endless possibilities, bathed in the warm hues of wheat, sand, and sun-drenched chalk. Touches of lavender and bougainvillea breathe life into the palette, adding vibrant strokes to the otherwise organic color scheme.

The fabrics tell a story of their own—an artisanal blend of the lightest wools and silks, robust linens and hemps, and sumptuous suedes. The materiality of the collection is grounded in nature, with pieces that flow and breathe, perfectly designed for the airy freedom the collection embodies. Jackets with dropped shoulders and low buttoning give off a relaxed vibe, while blousons with elasticated waists mimic the lightness of shirts. Tunics made from malfilé linen feel like a soft breeze against the skin, an ode to comfort and effortless elegance.

This season’s trousers are a standout, drawing heavily on equestrian influences. Straight and soft, with high waists designed to be worn folded over, they come to life with buttons and zips at the cuffs, gathering volume and emphasizing their constructed, yet fluid nature.

The country and horseback theme continues with leather Bermuda shorts paired simply with a woven straw hat and cowboy bag, capturing the essence of rustic charm.

Does Emporio Armani forget the joy of summer? No way! The collection's vision of freedom extends to womenswear in a riot of bright colors and light-as-air fabrics. The women’s pieces rejoice in the same ethos of liberation, with flowing lines and fluid fabrics that dance with every movement. Jackets, long skirts, trousers, and tops are designed to caress the body, expressing a style that is both loose and instinctive, echoing the carefree spirit of the season.

also read
EMPORIO ARMANI Spring/Summer 2024 Review

Emporio Armani
Spring/Summer 2025

see more looks

Emporio Armani’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a call to abandon the rigidity of city life and embrace a softer, more sensual way of living. The collection is a reminder that true freedom lies not in the boundaries of our cities, but in the vast, unbounded landscapes of our world and our imaginations.

all images
SS 2025 Runway (c) Emporio Armani