*New Collection
Paul Smith SS 2025
The shifting harmonies of Britishness
written Chidozie Obasi
In a big shift, Paul Smith returned to Pitti Uomo in Florence to debut its Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Presented by Sir Paul himself, he spoke to audiences by talking through the ‘60s-inspired designs.
Nestled in the sumptuous settings of Villa Favard, a gorgeously ornate 19th century compound in the heart of Florence, it was transformed into Bar Paul: a tribute to the Italian cafes that Paul frequented in Soho in the 1960s. Typically open all night, these cafes were a place for people to go after the likes of the Scene Club, Flamingo Club, and Whiskey-A-Go-Go had closed for the evening. Naturally, they drew a bohemian crowd of musicians, artists, and designers who helped to make Soho the epicenter of the creative world at that moment in time. The presentation space will be set up with cafe tables complete with ‘Bar Paul’ branded items such as napkins, coffee cups, sugar packets, and match boxes, to evoke those after-hours meetups of Soho’s artistic circle.
The collection itself expanded upon this theme, with a pleasingly louche and tactile approach to tailoring. Ties are worn loosely knotted, paired with denim chore jackets and unstructured blazers in cotton canvas – a look which suggests an artist heading to dinner straight from a day’s painting in the studio. Suits are cut from classic houndstooth and Prince of Wales fabrics, bringing to mind London in the ‘60s, while outerwear uses bold statement fabrics to eye-catching effect. One collection highlight – an oversized trench coat – is constructed from a custom Italian cloth with an exploded pastel check design, based on the Paul Smith Signature Stripe.
Paul Smith
Spring/Summer 2025
see more looks
Soho stalwarts Francis Bacon and Lucien Freud provide key inspiration, and this painterly influence is reflected back into the presentation space with art materials provided by Winsor & Newton. Seating throughout the venue was provided by Artek, in the form of their iconic Stool 60.
all images
SS 2025 during PITTI 2024 (c) Paul Smith