In a season ditching all manner of fuss for a chic-meets-sleek affair, clothes are shifting their meaning to a new, understated level. The menswear season in Paris has grappled with a wealth of micro—and macro—trends that embraced a new take on menswear dressing.

LOEWE

A study on perspective. On how points of view define perceptions and scales, and how perceptions and scales draw silhouettes. Dwarfed by Lynda Benglis’ gigantic, water-spouting fountains, attendees look at the catwalk from a wide angle, and from the bottom up, taken by a certain grandeur. At least, this is what the silhouette entices: legs are long, the waist is high, the bust becomes compact. Elongation, gesture and an exploration of fabrication turn the straightforward into something not so straightforward, the subtle into the bold. Blazers, coats, banker shirts, knitted polos, twin-sets, argyle knits, jeans and chinos are what the collection consists of. Such apparent plainness deceives the eye, but it is twisted and turned. Crystals swarm over entire surfaces, like filters, or meticulously drawn stripes and pinstripes. Gestural cuts turn the body into a construction. Shoes grow into trousers, giving the impression of cloth coming out of the ground. As ever for LOEWE, the power of the unexpected act turns things around. Tops like giant swatches of fabric, pins included.

Accessories that become pieces of clothing. A crystal hummingbird on a shredded brocade top and crystal-embellished sunglasses. A cerebral palette of soft pastels, and solid blues, black, khakis. Round-toe Chelsea boots and sandals, ballet shoes, oversized bags such as the suede Pebble bucket and Puzzle Fold totes add further elements to the study on proportions.

LOUIS VUITTON

The Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2024 Men’s Collection orbits the sun as a focal point for opportunity, responsibility and enhancement. In his first proposal for the Maison, Men’s Creative Director Pharrell Williams looks to the sun as a universal source of life: a radiance that energises, heals and unifies humans across cultures and creeds.

As our ultimate guiding light, the sun empowers its pupils to study, improve, and share in our appreciation. It teaches us to shine the light – the love – back on our fellow humans. The impact of the sun is present throughout the collection, in the rays of graphics, the warmth of the palette, and the glistening surface decorations that gild garments and accessories. The show is presented on Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in the French capital, in the ever-present view of the adjacent Louis Vuitton studios. It embodies a metaphorical connection between Paris and Virginia, the home state of Pharrell Williams. The evolution it represents inspires memories of Princess Anne High School in Virginia Beach, a seminal institution in the early education of the Men’s Creative Director, as well as recollections of the road that led him to today: the generosity of Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, who ignited a foray into fashion that would only grow through Pharrell Williams’ relationship with Pietro Beccari.

The formative premise is epitomised in styling elements and in American varsity jackets amplified through the Parisian confection of the Maison’s ateliers. The premise encourages a study of the sporty wardrobe in tracksuits and knitwear re-contextualised with pearl embroideries or Monogram.

JUUN.J

Juun.J embraced the theme of 'SKIN' this season, presenting the beauty of contrast. They maximized the contrast of silhouettes by mixing slim-fitting clothes that evoke the image of the body with twisted and exaggerated volume items, emphasizing the contrast effect. Especially within the modern atmosphere of Palais de Tokyo, they created a runway that spanned almost 100 meters, showcasing 39 outfits inspired by the skinny aesthetics of the 70s, tailoring from the 80s, and denims from the 90s. Furthermore, they broke the boundaries between ready-to-wear and haute couture by blending tops and bottoms using various materials and colors such as leather, denim, wool, jersey, and sequins. The representative colors include beige, black, navy, khaki, white, silver, and opal. Juun.J collaborated with Belgian typographic artist Christophe Szpajdel. They expressed specially designed rock graphics through prints and embroidery on various items. Jung Wook-Jun, Juun.J's creative director stated, "We beautifully expressed Juun.J's contrast at 'Palais de Tokyo,' the hottest

museum in Paris," adding, "By incorporating tattoo-style graphics into the theme of 'SKIN' this season, we can experience new items that haven't been seen before."

AMI

AMI continues the process started last winter, refining the wardrobe to strengthen it. Inspired by the extraordinary minimalism of the 90s, the brand's basic essentials have been reinterpreted. Connected to reality, the wardrobe echoes its times. With sharply defined shoulders and fluid shapes, the AMI silhouette is close to the body, following its curves and movements. Men evolve at their own pace within the collection, while unisex propositions take up more space, and women fully embrace their feminine sensuality.

Pastels and natural summer colors contrast with brighter tones. Like AMI's black and white stripes, the graphic juxtaposition is inviting, while lush fabrics amplify the collection's lightness. Hands are fluid, less structured, and casual pieces borrow fabrics from tailoring.

KOCHE

For her Spring Summer 24 collection, Christelle Kocher delicately revisits what constitutes the very essence of her creative vision: an uninhibited, inventive fashion, whose sophistication builds bridges between popular culture builds bridges between popular culture and the excellence of craftsmanship. All in a purity of forms. Without overbidding. A wardrobe is the concrete expression of a vision, a harmonious whole where every detail counts. We find in this collection this work on the blur, these tops embroidered with skilful geometries, these hand-painted lace, muslin, georgette.

This collection is an ode to femininity also embodied by the masculine, delicacy and vulnerability are in both locker rooms. There are also spectacular pieces such as these patterns of shirts and shorts painted by hand by Christelle herself, bringing together quotes from female artists that she carries in her heart such as Patti Smith, Virginie Despentes, Virginia Woolf, Céline Minard . All of these pieces are worn by boys. Christelle plays with stretch materials by combining everything with the most spectacular embroideries developed in the Koché studio in Paris.

LGN LOUIS-GABRIEL NOUCHI

Reflecting Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s lifetime passion for reading, each collection pays tribute to a book or a writer who has inscribed their vision on the world. The SS24 collection is inspired by the book “A SINGLE MAN“ by Christopher Isherwood (1964), and reflects on the tension between the structure imposed on men in society and the uncontrollable force of the repressed emotions. It opens the conversation on mourning, and how men are expected to react, openly show or not, emotions. In the novel, George has recently lost his long-term partner, Jim, in a car accident. George goes through a journey having various encounters that colors his senses and enlighten the possibilities of being alive and human in the world. The 60’s Mods inspired jackets with sharp shoulders are strangled and cinched at the waist. Classics singlet and bodysuits from the 60’s men wardrobe are sublimated as new home-wear pieces. Thanks to micro-modal and lyocell fabrics these pieces enable confort, softness and breathability while being sustainable.

DIOR HOMME

From the feminine to the masculine, from the salon to the street, from the new look to new wave. A collage of influences and pop iconography takes shape at the heart of this dior summer 2024 line dreamed up by kim jones, simultaneously embracing tradition and subversion. Conceived as a multi-faceted tribute to dior icons via different eras and the house’s artistic directors, the collection draws on the silhouettes created by yves saint laurent, Gianfranco Ferré and Marc Bohan, reinterpreted and transformed. Infusing all is a sense of crisp, playful modernity, practicality and ease. The appearance of archetypal menswear items – such as the harrington, polo shirt, crew neck and cardigan – is transformed from the ordinary to the extraordinary, through symbolic techniques that traverse time and styles at dior: tweeds, embroideries and cannage. Punctuating the looks, a multiplicity of bags in a variety of shapes, colors and textures range from extravagant to sober. A passionate dialogue between heritage and reinvention(s).

SONGZIO

Songzio’s SS24 collection converges the classical and the new, converging the brand’s unique and artistic designs with a new sense of youthful ready to wear and tailoring. Inspired by ancient korean garments and armor, this collection features songzio’s signature cocoon silhouette and volume, delicately deconstructed with multi layered drapes and plated cuts. Prevalent throughout the collection are the multi draped and layered pieces. From blazers, jackets, shirts to trousers, the horizontaly cut pieces are worn with vertically layered inner pieces made in leather, habotai and silk. With such pieces,this season materializes songzio’s creative process ‘paint on black’. Every collection begins on a black canvas where the season’s inspirational painting is drawn. In songzio’s multi layered paintings, the vertical strokes represent the object while the horizontal strokes represent its emotions.

This concept of strokes and layeres is also applied in this season’s accessories. Plate layered shoulder bags, pouches, as well as classic rounded derby and ribboned loafers accentuates the collection. This season also feature’s the brand’s collaboration shoes with reebok inspired by this season’s signature plates and draped wings.

EGONLAB

For Spring 2024, EGONLAB urges us to redefine our relationship with our bodies and reminds us of moments of choice. That tipping point when two directions lay before us and the decisive moment when we venture into the unknown. Titled "Toute première fois", it evokes this rebirth, the power of decision-making and liberation.

The power of life, growth, and pleasure. An inner exploration that involves exploring the body we discover, defying gender, and revealing forms. For the upcoming spring, bodies are blossoming like the "flower of evil." Tailoring is ever-present, serving as a reminder and landmark, a signature. It sculpts the body and captivates the blossoming hearts. Curves are meticulously crafted to enhance silhouettes and shape unique, open, and subversive identities. A scent of punk and sensuality takes hold of the wardrobe as bodies break free from conventions and mingle in an endless soirée. Denim, leather, and exquisite materials punctuate this open wardrobe. Skin against skin. If to touch our souls, we must taste sweat, feel flesh, then so be it.

Sankuanz  

This season, the Giantess has been chosen as the inspiration for the SANKUANZ Spring/Summer 2024 collection.​ ​The multi-dimensionality and complexity of the Giantess is interpreted with a design language that blurs the lines between gender, and blends street style and high fashion with pluralism and depth.​ Following la veuve noire of the previous season, “CHAPTER 4 GIANTESS” continues the brand’s homage to the female strength as it features a collaboration with artist Amanda Ba. Her contemporary illustrations of the Giantess and the Pitbull are presented in various textile techniques, including print on mesh and laser printed denim. Abrasion and stain effects convey an incorrigibility and an aversion to conformity behind the vintage-store-bought appearance.

And to drastically contrast (or perhaps perfectly complement) the fierceness of the Giantess, SANKUANZ retains its humour and inclination towards pop art and playful elements in adorable cartoon graphics that adorn the typically masculine garments in the form of prints and accessories. Plushie keychains in vibrant colours clash with Amanda’s harsh illustrations and the violence of the brand’s signature dagger details, emphasizing the diversity of our current youth culture. 

WALES BONNER

Reflections of a long distance runner: the silent messenger, the unwavering spirit striding, soaring. Words of upliftment arrive from the legendary runners of Ethiopia and Kenya. With eyes fixed on the horizon and legs carried by belief, Gebreselassie, Dibaba, and Kipchoge issue a call to continue and never stray. Following in their footsteps, the Spring Summer collection becomes an ode to long journeys and life missions. A celebration of soulful pursuits and inspired movement. Holistic commitment is felt throughout the collection with hand-making techniques honed over generations. Precious time is imbued in Tibeb fabric woven by artisans in Addis Ababa. Raffia is hand-embroidered on skirts and vests in a disrupted animal print motif, while intricate stud and bead stripes detail womenswear tailoring. Macrame net vests and skirts made from beads in Ghanaian artisanal glass and sonorous silver echo the calabash instrument. The sounds reverberate until consistent practice creates an unconscious rhythm—the point where mantras repeat without effort, where routine transcends to a tranquil flow.

Passages over the hills are imagined in silhouettes between shepherd and equestrian: check outerwear, rawhide skirts, bouclé knitwear, and calfskin riding boots made in partnership with Himco in Italy. Telluric wonders continue with cheetah printed cowhide and tailoring in horsehair canvas. This season, sheepskin-lined loafers from UGG round out an offering for restful interludes. The codes of Wales Bonner remain steadfast: signature shirting is issued in gradient stripes, while hybrid tailoring in earthen brown wool is enlivened by radiant blue satin and sportswear finishes.

MARINE SERRE

MARINE SERRE’s new collection presents a megamix of seasonal one-hit wonders, rare gems, and golds. The show sets the tone with the first notes of Debussy's 'Clair de Lune,' an ode to nightlife and a reference to Marine Serre's moon crescent logo. This originally transgressive classical track keeps its iconoclast touch serving as the perfect foundation for

this 15-minute re-interpretation—a journey through the history of electronic dance music. As the show music producer Pierre Rousseau likes to say: “It’s a process of radicality, regeneration, and hybridization dear to MARINE SERRE, adapted to music.” A sumptuous track that captures the heavenly sensation of a perfect summer day, making you want to dance. The kind of track that can instantly shoot your mood to the Moon and back. The staged collection highlights a plethora of techniques, fabrics, and silhouettes, with half of them regenerated from upcycled or deadstock materials—a showcase of different expressions of passion. The runway cast is a unique signature of the house, featuring an eclectic group of models and eleven music artists: Teyana Taylor, Miguel, Aron Piper, Sevdaliza, Noah Cyrus, Yseult, Brooke Candy, Anetha, Pink Siifu, John Glacier and Aime Simone.

All jamming together and vibing at the same pulsation. Teyana Taylor takes the stage as the opening act, adorned in a dress crafted from pleated scarves and upcycled tee shirts, sensually molded on her silhouette. A powerful example of MARINE SERRE’s work process, where materials are ennobled, and two pillars of the house reinvent and regenerate themselves in a mutual dance for the very first time.

LAZOSCHMIDL

The Lazoschmidl Spring/Summer 2024 collection follows the rhythm of a couple’s romantic getaway. From boarding to pool time, from seafood dinner at the beach to skinny dipping under the crescent moon. Lightness and nonchalance accompany the protagonists while they indulge and enjoy each other’s company wearing sheer, soft and short clothing. Striped Bathing suits, crochet ensembles and snug tops evoke the feeling of nostalgia while hi-tech fibers cite an utopian future in a yet non-existing world.

The dreamy gaycation features upcycled fight jackets and hybrid denim hotpants with open fy and sewn-in swimwear whileAI generated artworks are based on the symbolism of a cliché-ridden love novel.