.aesthetic talk
William Fan
Crafting Futures
written Alban E. Smajli
William Fan is scripting a new narrative in modern design, fusing his rich cultural heritage with an avant-garde approach to fashion. His designs emerge as an eloquent dialogue between architectural rigor and fluid dynamism, boldly questioning the industry's entrenched norms.
With each collection, Fan weaves together Asian heritage and European design sensibilities, crafting a sartorial rebellion that defies traditional boundaries and celebrates sustainability. Through his latest endeavors, Fan explores themes of gender fluidity and inclusivity, pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion. Fan's staunch commitment to using dead-stock materials and partnering with family-run businesses underscores his devotion to ethical fashion practices. This journey sets a bold new standard for what it means to be a designer today but also cements Fan’s status as a visionary and a profound storyteller in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.
William Fan
seen by Clemens Poloczek
“I feel the most empowered when I work close to my heritage because it feels the most authentic. The many travels to Hong Kong influenced my perspective on beauty, craftsmanship, and tradition. I look for the balance between Asia and Europe in every season.”
William Fan speaks with Alban E. Smajli
LE MILE Magazine TRANCE, Nr. 36
Alban E. Smajli
William, your journey in fashion has been inspirational and transformative. Could you share how your cultural heritage influences your design philosophy and how it has evolved over the years?
William Fan
When I started my brand, and also during my studies, I wanted my collections to be personal and close to my identity. I feel the most empowered when I work close to my heritage because it feels the most authentic. The many travels to Hong Kong influenced my perspective on beauty, craftsmanship, and tradition. I look for the balance between Asia and Europe in every season. In the beginning, the contrasts were more hard and visible. Nowadays, it has become a grey zone where you can hardly see the lines. It's more diffused now, like we work on the theme of unisex. You hardly notice which gender it's meant to be.
In your creative process, how do you enter a state of flow or "trance" to conceptualize and bring your visions to life?
I like to build up a storyline. At first, we started with a party night, 'THE DAY AFTER' came as a consequence. Then we had an afternoon in Chinatown and ended up in a karaoke bar. You know, it’s almost like a biographical film book; I try to visualize every occasion.
Now we've entered the 'CEREMONY' era, which is the current collection. Every season has a theme, and from that feeling, we create a full-vision world. From the set design to the music, we want to escape with our community and dive into 15 minutes of dreaming.
Your designs are known for their unique blend of architectural precision and fluidity. How do you balance these elements, and how has this signature style evolved in your SS24 collection?
I like to think about a functional wardrobe with a twist—things you can wear and be real about. Our garments are built to function and always have a little twist in color, texture, and material. I think clothing needs to move and flow and give the customer enough space between the body and the garment itself. I’m not a big fan of a very tight fit. If so, it’s knit where you still have the stretch element. I like to empower with simplicity and precise tailoring. Sometimes more formal, sometimes more playful. This season was a lot about textures and fabrics. The colors were mainly inspired by the LGBTQI+ Flag, which is mainly represented in monotone, single-color block looks. Furthermore, we questioned how we dress for ceremonial occasions and which general rules are given.
Can you give us a glimpse into the making of the SS24 collection? What were the key inspirations, challenges, and breakthrough moments during its development?
The SS24 collection was named 'CEREMONY,' and it's all about the special days we celebrate in our lives. Big Birthdays or Weddings. I got married myself in 2022 and was quite critical of what you have to do and all the rules you need to follow. We started researching Asian and European traditions—for example, for marriage. The red wedding in China and the white wedding in Europe. I wanted to be inclusive and make a statement through the rainbow color flag from the LGBTQI+ community. I wanted to put a sign out that everybody should have the same rights to celebrate, for example, a wedding independently of your sexuality. I gave a male model the veil or the final bride look a black short-sleeve tuxedo with feathers. For me, it felt very adult and emancipated.
Sustainability is a critical conversation in fashion today. How are you integrating sustainable practices into your work, particularly with the SS24 collection?
We work exclusively with dead-stock materials. I like that way of using non-wanted resources and having a limited choice. That also means that most of the products are limited in their availability. All the manufacturers I am working with are visited personally a few times a year. I'm lucky to build up great relationships with family-owned businesses.
Everyone is very innovative when developing new styles. We don’t overproduce our products, and we never go on sale. I want to create a value that is hopefully long-lasting and sustains many trends and decades.
Reflecting on your career, who has been your most significant mentor, and what was the most valuable lesson you learned from them?
I had many people supporting me from the beginning. To be honest, I would say my parents. They always taught me to be bold and proud, regardless of where and who you are at the moment. I always keep saying: Fake it till you make it. This helped me through many moments :)
“I feel privileged to be able to have the runway medium and the city of Berlin, which offers so many monumental spaces. From the TV Tower to the Underground, I've tried all levels in Berlin to express my emotions through many spectacular locations.”
William Fan speaks with Alban E. Smajli
LE MILE Magazine TRANCE, Nr. 36
Fashion shows can be mesmerizing, almost trance-like experiences for the audience. How do you aim to evoke this sense of immersion and emotion in your runway presentations?
I feel privileged to be able to have the runway medium and the city of Berlin, which offers so many monumental spaces. From the TV Tower to the Underground, I've tried all levels in Berlin to express my emotions through many spectacular locations. I love to tell a story when it comes to runway presentations. Mostly, I'm looking for a space that has a certain power and an interesting history to tell. I also like to work with all senses. The moment you come into the venue, you will immediately experience a certain smell, texture, or lighting. Then the music starts, and I have 15 minutes to tell the concept of more than 6 months of intensive work.
From all the pieces you've created for the SS24 collection, is there one that stands out to you as a personal favorite or holds a special meaning? If so, why?
I’m a big fan of the 'Are you a friend of Dorothy?' jumper. A "friend of Dorothy" (FOD) is a euphemism for a gay man, first used in LGBT slang. Stating that, or asking if someone is a friend of Dorothy, is a furtive way of suggesting sexual orientation while avoiding hostility. I like the way to use historical references to hopefully remember we never need to talk in euphemisms again to express our sexuality.
What's next for William Fan? Are there any new projects, collaborations, or directions you're particularly excited about exploring in the near future?
Many new product groups will be added, and our new gift shop 'FAN PLAZA' just opened its doors a few months ago. We now have spaces for new visuals in partnership with artists, partners, and friends. I like the idea of bringing networks together that share the same love for small details and art.
follow artist @studiowilliamfan
discover online www.williamfan.com
all images (c) Clemens Poloczek