.aesthetic talk
NEIL ZHAO
*The Material Alchemy
written + interview TAGEN DONOVAN
Neil is a designer redefining contemporary fashion with his sharp, conceptual approach to materiality and form. His work transcends traditional boundaries, transforming overlooked objects into thought-provoking statements that blur the lines between fashion, sculpture, and cultural commentary.
By challenging convention, Neil invites audiences to reconsider the value and potential of everyday materials, sparking a deeper reflection on the intersection of utility and aesthetics. At the core of Zhao’s work is an exploration of permanence and ephemerality—how garments, trends, and even the industry itself exist in a state of constant flux. His designs embrace the tension between the fleeting and the enduring, questioning what it means to create in a world where change is the only constant. This philosophy is embodied in Zhao’s acclaimed Tyre Bag, a piece constructed from industrial material and repurposed into a high-fashion object, subverting expectations and revealing the beauty in the mundane. Across his collections, Neil employs techniques such as layering, deconstruction, and exaggerated repetition, crafting garments that mirror the transient nature of contemporary culture.
Bastien Dausse
seen by Cécile Prunet / (c) Cécile Prunet
As the fashion industry navigates an era of profound socio-political, and environmental shifts, Neil stands among a new generation of designers reshaping its trajectory. His work responds to the moment yet resists easy categorisation—offering a perspective that is as inquisitive as it is uncompromising. By pushing the boundaries of materiality, Neil not only captures the spirit of the times but also challenges the industry to rethink its assumptions about creativity, consumption, and sustainability. In this interview, we explore Neil’s creative process, his evolving relationship with fashion, and what it means to design in an era defined by constant change. Through his innovative vision and commitment to reimagining the ordinary, Neil offers a fresh perspective on the future of design.
“For me, lasting means never settling for what is safe or what already works. Reinvention is key.”
Neil Zhao speaks with Tagen Donovan
for LE MILE .Digital - THE MATERIAL ALCHEMY
(c) Neil Zhao
(c) Neil Zhao
Tagen Donovan
Your use of the unexpected pushes the boundaries of what fashion can be. How do these choices speak to the theme of impermanence, and what do they reveal about the lifecycle and reinvention of everyday objects?
Neil Zhao
I'm captivated by the mundane and the present moment. My latest collection, showcased last November, reflects this fascination. Currently, as a second-year fashion design student, I'm fully immersing myself in this unique phase—observing my environment and drawing inspiration from it. This might be my only time as a fashion design student, and I aim to capture this transient experience.
Viewing fashion through an anthropological lens offers unique insights. How does this approach help you decode the cyclical nature of the industry?
At its core, fashion reflects human nature—people crave novelty, whether driven by seasonal trends or the pressures of capitalism. Yet, while fashion constantly reinvents itself, certain staples remain.
Blazers, jeans, and button-down shirts don’t disappear; instead, they evolve. Each cycle brings a fresh perspective—through cuts, fabrics, or styling—breathing new life into familiar silhouettes while maintaining their essential form.
With roots across Australia, China, and Norway, how has this multicultural backdrop shaped your perspective on cultural aesthetics?
I think my background has given me a sharper sensitivity to cultural nuances. Having lived in each of these countries for at least six years, I’ve become attuned to the subtle, often unspoken differences between them. It’s not just the obvious distinctions—like food, language, or greetings—but also the ways people from different places naturally respond to certain situations.
At the same time, I find it fascinating to observe the common threads that connect people across cultures. Despite their differences, there are shared instincts and behaviors that transcend borders, revealing an underlying universality in how we interact and relate to one another.
Your work is guided by conceptual underpinnings. In your 2023 RESET showcase at Central Saint Martins, you layered multiple jackets atop one another, creating a striking visual. How does this technique of superimposing reflect the transient meanings of contemporary fashion?
I’m fascinated by the fact that every time I walk into a mall, I see the same garments on the racks—again and again. There’s something compelling about that repetition, the way fashion continuously recreates the same pieces with only slight variations.
It’s intriguing how trends evolve, yet certain silhouettes, fabrics, and styles resurface in endless cycles, reinforcing the idea that fashion is in a constant state of reinvention rather than true transformation.
Your first presentation at Sarabande’s East London Space, If You Don’t Get It, It’s for You, reimagined pin cushions, buttons, and fabric swatches as garments. Could you elaborate on the symbolism behind this collection?
These are the tools of fashion—the things that all of us at my school share in common. Beyond that, we are very different. We come from different countries, subcultures, and ethnicities. We may dress differently, but we all share the same workspaces, hang out in the same smoking areas, go to the same bars, and talk to each other. This kind of community, where such a diverse group of people are brought together through a shared craft, is something you wouldn’t see anywhere else outside of a fashion school. And I find that really interesting.
Fashion often captures the spirit of its time. How does the zeitgeist inform your creative process, and how do you balance creating designs that feel relevant to the present while embracing their inevitable transience? In such a fast-paced industry, do you believe timelessness is still possible?
I’m deeply interested in what’s happening right now. However, it’s hard to pinpoint exactly how the zeitgeist influences my practice—it's difficult to recognise when you’re living through it. That’s what I find exciting about it. I want to look back at my work and see that it was truly reflective of its time.
As for timelessness, I don’t really believe in it—at least not at this point in my career. Sometimes, it feels like the concept of timelessness is used as an excuse to create uninspired work. But who knows? Maybe one day I’ll want to create something timeless, too.
What does “lasting” mean to you in an industry defined by constant change?
For me, lasting means never settling for what is safe or what already works. Reinvention is key. I admire artists who completely depart from their previous work—sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t, but that’s what makes it interesting. The ability to take risks and keep evolving is what makes something truly lasting.
Lastly, what’s next for you? What are you excited to explore in 2025?
I want to reinvent myself—try something new. Of course, I’ll hold onto the things I love and stay true to myself, but I’m curious to see how I can use my sensibilities to create something that feels fresh and different.
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(c) Neil Zhao
(c) Neil Zhao
“Sometimes, it feels like the concept of timelessness is used as an excuse to create uninspired work.”
Neil Zhao speaks with Tagen Donovan
for LE MILE .Digital - THE MATERIAL ALCHEMY