Deconstructing Couture
*Valentino's Unification of Craft and 'Un Château

written Sarah Arendts

 

Simplicity Is Complexity Resolved is a quote from Constantin Brancusi, and it's also the conceptual framework of Valentino Haute Couture's Fall/Winter 2023-24 show.

 

Conceived by Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli, this sentiment finds a fitting stage in an ethereal Château - a spatial symbol unmoored from temporal and geographical constraints, encapsulating stories, life, and a dynamic character.

Piccioli's Château exists as a metaphysical entity, a compelling representation of Haute Couture's perceptions. The edifice, traditionally emblematic of elitism, undergoes a transformative rebirth, becoming an accessible symbol of beauty, uniqueness, and freedom. This notion challenges and reshapes the past, drawing out a pure simplicity hidden within perceived complexity.

 
VALENTINO Haute Couture Fall WInter 2023 2024 Paris LE MILE Magazine runway green dress
 
 
VALENTINO Haute Couture Fall WInter 2023 2024 Paris LE MILE Magazine glasses
 
 
 

This metamorphosis also unravels on the runway, where Valentino's collection champions the ethos of Couture - the craft, the expertise, and the power of the unique individual. This philosophy manifests in garments that mirror contemporary realities, sartorial renditions reflecting modern sensibilities through a minimalistic approach that amplifies meaning.

These simplified yet significant pieces flow seamlessly with the body, their streamlined forms and minimalist seams embodying an elegant, precise focus. The collection infuses past ideals with present attitudes, lighting up fabrics, abstracting decorative memories, and presenting a surreal imitation of the baroque. The clothes embody a sense of paused motion, offering a moment for reflection and admiration.

Humanity, often on the periphery, takes center stage in Piccioli's vision. Garments express individual emotions and human feelings with instinctive spontaneity. Everyday items gain importance, with t-shirts becoming ballgowns, vintage Levi’s® 501 XX Big E jeans transformed into canvases for gilded embroidery.

 
 
 
 
 

This Valentino collection ventures into the dynamic interplay between environment and people, transforming "Un Château" into a conduit for idea amplification, an open, inclusive space that resonates with everyone.

 
VALENTINO Haute Couture Fall WInter 2023 2024 Paris LE MILE Magazine
VALENTINO Haute Couture Fall WInter 2023 2024 Paris LE MILE Magazine black coat menswear
 
 
VALENTINO Haute Couture Fall WInter 2023 2024 Paris LE MILE Magazine runway final
 
 
VALENTINO Haute Couture Fall WInter 2023 2024 Paris LE MILE Magazine earrings
 
 
 
VALENTINO Haute Couture Fall WInter 2023 2024 Paris LE MILE Magazine head piece
 

Moreover, in line with its sustainability ethos, Valentino renews its partnership with La Réserve des Arts, a French non-profit association that promotes circular creativity through the creative repurposing of set materials. The continued collaboration signals the Maison's commitment to engaging in a reciprocal dialogue with local communities.

The set materials from the show, held at the Château de Chantilly, will be reconditioned by La Réserve des Arts, breathing new life into them and prolonging their usability. Previous events like Valentino Le Club Couture and Valentino Black Tie have already seen successful implementations of this sustainable practice.

The collaboration further emphasizes Valentino's dedication to a more sustainable future, even down to the seats that hosted guests at the show, all repurposed from previous fashion events. This conscious move highlights Valentino's determination to marry aesthetics and ethics, reshaping societal perceptions of beauty and luxury fashion. Through these practices, Valentino sets a commendable standard for the fashion industry's journey towards a more sustainable future.

 
 

credits
all images (c) Valentino, 2023