Pitti Uomo 104
* LE MILE Recounts the Key Moments from PITTI UOMO’s 104th Edition
written Chidozie Obasi
The ceaseless pursuit of innovation is no mean feat in a world increasingly characterized by changes that have had dramatic aftermaths on social, economic, and cultural levels.
Even though the fashion industry is constantly evolving, the Spring/Summer 2024 collections are starting to embrace a much more poised, fuss-free edge in full force.
PITTI UOMO 104 was one such example: minimal elegance aligns with a dialogue that sits within traditional and forward-thinking registers, where a new concept of luxury leisurewear is pivotal. In this conceptual spectrum, PITTI UOMO 104 meets heritage and mixes it with innovation, and lifestyle becomes increasingly conscious. This season saw a palette of tender hues applied to essential cuts and minimal shapes. Moreover, an environmentally-driven vision dictates natural capsules which, in turn, give birth to organic and fine yarns, and the reassuring compactness of linen, silk, cotton, cashmere rules supreme. Lightweight raincoats alternate with unstructured, featherweight jackets. Freshness is central on double-breasted suits and safari jackets, rolling in a sense of utmost versatility. From sugar-coated toppers to brilliant offerings, read our style roundup from this season’s PITTI UOMO edition. You’re welcome.
U.S. POLO ASSN.
U.S. Polo Assn’s new collection—the official brand of the United States Polo Association (USPA)—was presented at Florence's Fortezza da Basso. Created by Incom, the new line revisits the brand's classic styles in a contemporary key, infusing them with bright colours inspired by the Mediterranean Sea and light, summer-tinged fabrics such as linen and seersucker (a very thin cotton textile). Ruffles, embroidery, and eyelet fabrics enrich the traditional polo dress for women, while accessories are embellished with natural gems, enameled elements, and coloured crystals. Everything is designed with a focus on the environment: in addition to the use of sustainable denim, the labels are marked with USPA Life colours (white, blue, and green) that indicate to consumers the sustainable origin of the products.
(c) Stefano Ricci
Spring/Summer 2024
STEFANO RICCI
“Clothes are the mirror of the soul, the fulcrum of emotions and personality. Since ancient times, and now more than ever, fashion has been expressing the tale of oneself, the letter describing who we are,” read Stefano Ricci’s notes. For his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, archetypes appear as flashes of truth, according to the tradition of the brand that has always held high the standard of excellence and truly made in Italy production. The collection adheres to the needs of the modern man, who explores beyond any geographical and social border. The colours of Nature are masterful, giving way to a symphony of pure, light, ductile elegance for the man who travels the world and comes to know unexplored lands. The collection is for a wardrobe that takes the best style and reinterprets it with the aesthetic elements of comfort.
(c) Polimoda Pitti
Spring/Summer 2024
POLIMODA
A breathtaking proposition of garments at Polimoda’s end-of-year show, with a punchy beat that fronted 25 collections which took to the runway with over 100 looks, expressed the talent and identity of emerging designers from every corner of the globe. The participants in the show were 3rd and 4th year students on the Fashion Design course and the Master’s in Collection Design and Creative Direction, chosen for their outstanding talent by the School’s faculty together with Director Massimiliano Giorne and Caroline Issa, CEO and Fashion Director of Tank Magazine and mentor for the School’s fashion design undergraduates. The level of talent from the school was indeed remarkable: young designers presented a wealth of techniques that ranged from tailoring to printing. Not only did students showcase their ability to pattern cut and construct a garment, but they really did put on a show that had brilliant theatrics and drama. The high-level garment proposals joined forces with meticulous tailoring, birthing some extraordinary garments that speak volumes on the students’ talent.
(c) Brunello Cucinelli
Spring/Summer 2024
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
The pursuit of elegance is at the heart of the new Spring Summer 2024 collection, conceived as an instrument for expressing the distinctive characteristics of the modern man to the full. The range and harmony of the collection allow the male personality to shine through, without force, even in the simplest combinations. Fresh colours, soft volumes, carefully balanced garments, paisley patterns, and details inspired by the French Riviera offer a versatile spectrum of elegance at the service of the individual. As always, the man and his choices remain an essential point of reference. Unique natural textures, délavé and slub effects enhance the summery colours, which pair with timeless neutrals to create a new, fresh, and intense balance. Pink, raspberry, turquoise, and mauve not only influence the patterns on shirts and T-shirts, but also add refined accents to sartorial elegance, always offset by the unique textural effects of the fabrics. Harmonious combinations are guaranteed by the wide range of beige tones, which move from the lightest to the most intense nuances bordering on brown. Finally, blues, even in their brightest shades such as the refined Prussian Blue, convey a sense of refinement and elegance.
ERL
For spring/summer 2024, ERL embarks on a new chapter for menswear with luxurious suiting and tailoring, handmade in Italy. The collection of men’s suiting and tailoring is focused and refined, traditionally rooted in nostalgia and the past. The brand now looks into what its future could be: each piece is handmade and artisanal. Youthful surf and skate culture is reflected with upscale fabrications reminiscent of future luxury. Pieces are hand-beaded, embellished, and embroidered. In the future, everything is backward. Shirts are cut like jackets. Suit jackets are worn as shirts. Puffers and knitwear are transformed with champagne tinsel–metallics. Sequin-encrusted tuxedos are cut in the shape of wetsuits. Fabrications include flyweight California silk blends with crystal-encrusted monograms.
SLOWEAR
Innovation rooted in the heritage of the past: these are the main ingredients of the SS24 collection presented by the Slowear Group brands: Incotex, Montedoro, Zanone, and Glanshirt. The creative impulse originated precisely from the past, from the desire to give it new meaning through an entirely contemporary stylistic interpretation. Historical archival designs have been renewed in their essence, with prints and patterns in tones suited to a light summer spirit and a deliberately vintage flavour.
NOBIS
Ahead of the new season, Nobis, a leading Canadian outdoor clothing company, presents a selection of jackets ideal for lovers of camping and outdoor experiences. Nobis outerwear offers the perfect combination of functionality, durability, and weather resistance, enabling campers to fully enjoy nature in all weather conditions. One of the main features is the use of high-quality water-repellent materials. These special fabrics enable the jackets to repel water and moisture, keeping us dry and comfortable even during sudden rains or hiking in wet areas. The water-repellent treatment ensures that water slides off the outer surface, thus preventing it from penetrating the fabric. Designed with the specific needs of outdoor activities in mind, the Nobis proposals feature adjustable hoods, cuffs with hook-and-loop closures, straps, multiple pockets, and water-resistant zippers. Wear resistance is another key aspect. Nobis jackets are made of strong, durable materials that resist tears, abrasion, and the stresses typical of the outdoors.
(c) SLOWEAR
Spring/Summer 2024
(c) KNT
Spring/Summer 2024