.designer talk
* Florence Cools
with Tagen Donovan
Antwerp-based fashion designer Florence Cools is the creative director at La Collection, a self-established label that redefines timelessness.
Maintaining a career abundantly punctuated with success and industry acclaim, Cools dips into the pool of nostalgia, giving credit to the past and walking us through formative experiences that have manifested into the present. Enamoured with sketching at age three and wandering gallery halls as a child with sincere curiosity, Cools began to formulate an introduction to key figures within the art world. Having experienced the likes of Rodin and Georgia O'Keefe at an early developmental stage, the foundations were set that would naturally unlock Cools’ future pathway.
While completing studies in fashion technology, with La Collection lying in future wait, Florence met her husband, Artur. Together, the duo conceptualised the multi-labelled Damoy store, situated in the heart of Antwerp. The husband-and-wife duo had an innocent grasp on the workings of the industry. However, remaining unfazed by the tribulations faced, they created a businessplan central to controlling their own narrative, completely different than the rigid logistics of the industry.
Fast forward to the present day, the La Collection flame has been sparked, developed through the years of a fruitful career.
Cools embodies every aspect of a modern-day businesswoman, overseeing a multitude of operations integral to the label. Attention to detail is what sets La Collection apart from its contemporaries, with a thoughtful approach to each layer of a future-oriented business model. The company strikes a balance between an innate sense-of-self and a sincere care for the production of slow fashion. 2017 marked the beginning chapter of the La Collection story, exploring the in-between landscape of traditional brands where seasons and trends do not hold prominence over the design process and anchoring La Collection’s position in the market as a timeless and seasonless label. The Pre-Spring '21 collection illustrates the brands core aesthetic — marrying together delicious tailoring combined with muted tones.
Your career bears many fruits, from opening the renowned Damoy Store to creating your own label, La Collection, back in 2017. What is your background in fashion? How has everything culminated?
As a young girl fascinated by fashion, sketching at the age of three, mainly of my mom dressed in tailored suits. Later on, I found myself studying a subject of a completely different nature, leading to my next chapter where I studied fashion technology, using my spare time for creative outlets. It was when I met my husband Artur. He truly believed in my passion and encouraged the start of our own fashion business. Between us we didn't have much industry experience, being new to it all, facing challenges along the way. Though it was tough, giving up was never an option. Acting from the heart, everything changed in a positive respect. Myself and my husband stopped listening to other people’s advice on how to run a showroom and realised that we had something new and fresh, something that people loved!
We’ve been living in the dawning of fast fashion for some while now. Mass production has created a fleeting landscape for the industry. What do you feel is the key to creating an authentic label while also maintaining longevity?
Initially, with the onset of our label we'd decided to do things differently, setting ourselves apart from traditional brands. Seasons and trends weren't central in the design or production process. Choosing to be a timeless, seasonless label, maintaining quality and craftsmanship. Occasionally, samples are ready days or even nights before fashion week, which positions La Collection into a couture-centric brand. The fabrics are made to order and this in itself can be a lengthy process. After this part of production is achieved, our ateliers spend time developing a style and the process naturally evolves from here. In all honesty, I wouldn’t have it any other way. Despite the fashion industry penning us into a certain method of working, it’s up to modern luxury brands, such as ours to make a change. Focusing on honest manufacturing instead of relying on high-speed production and low overheads. I believe in a perfect new world, where the end consumer prefers to wear labels that genuinely care about a slower approach to fashion.
COVID-19 has spurred an unprecedented change within fashion. Seasonal shows have been digitised. The very structure of consuming fashion has changed altogether. Though it seems hard to equate any measure of positivity into these challenging circumstances, it feels as though the industry is having some sort of rebirth. Creative Directors, Designers, Photographers and everyone in-between now have the opportunity to evolve and innovate. As a designer, do you find the prospect of the industry suddenly changing, exciting or nerve-racking?
The first few weeks of lockdown during March, there was an overwhelming sense of a standstill. Nothing was certain, and nobody knew what was going to happen next. Despite this, our company decided to take no risks, immediately redeveloping our pre-existing platform into a virtual showroom. By June we had everything set up, with the ability to showcase our collections to an even wider audience than ever before. Creatively speaking, I didn’t feel that I was lost for too long as it struck me that our lives were going to look very different. Ultimately, what we were going to be wearing needed to fit into this new way of living - a much more relaxed lifestyle, fewer weddings and parties would be taking place, with people staying at home.
The La Collection HQ operates in Belgium, with its rich cultural history embedded within the Arts. Do you find inspiration inherently comes from the area that surrounds you? Or is traveling where your imagination is most captured?
It's a mixture of both, I feel so privileged to have the best of several worlds to take inspiration from. Living in Antwerp is something that's never boring! The city itself is a melting pot, which is a constant source of inspiration. I also spend time in Paris; the architecture, museums, galleries, people and the general vibe of the city inspires me. It’s often where the design process starts. Another love of mine is painting, especially something of an abstract nature, never knowing where it’ll take me.
Generally speaking, inspiration comes from many various aspects, never knowing when or where it’ll come from. I'll take pictures of my surroundings - the cobblestones on the ground, buildings and various neighbourhoods in Antwerp. While always making sure to never forget the things that I love and feel inspired by. Sometimes, I’ll note down my thoughts. Often, I'll find myself waking up in the middle of the night with an idea that must be written down, otherwise, I’m unable to sleep soundly!
.designer talk
Florence Cools
speaks with
Tagen Donovan
first published in:
issue 30, 01/2021
I’ve read that you’re a fan of Rodin, the romantic contours of his sculptures seamlessly marry into your garments. Who else has influenced you over the course of your career?
I remember as a young girl, my mom used to study Rodin alongside the works of his mistress Camille Claudel. My mom was studying sculpture at the Academy, so I’m very familiar with his works. It’s a very nostalgic and heartfelt feeling when the imagery of Rodin reappears in my mind. I’m also a big fan of [the] artists Alexander Calder, Pierre Soulage and Yves Klein. Most importantly, my true inspiration is founded amongst the wardrobe and way of living that Georgia O’Keefe embraced.
The Pre-Spring 21 collection echoes a timeless elegance, both of subject and means - complimented by a deliciously classical colour-palette. What is the story behind the silhouettes of this collection? Has this informed the use of thick Italian wools and heavyweight silks throughout?
This collection was all about being able to escape to a dream world. Naturally, the breezy silks and tailored cool wools would complement the backdrop of the rocks on my favourite beach in France. As a brand, La Collection represents modern luxury. Designing for the woman who's out there juggling life - from grocery shopping to business meetings and dinner with friends – all in one outfit. Pre-Spring 2021 is built on tailored pieces that go hand-in-hand with flowing silks and earthy tones, creating a balance between the labels signature black and white palette. The pieces are cut to perfection, with quality being of central importance. Each garment is timeless with a promised longevity that allows the wearer to cherish each piece for years to come.
There’s been a cataclysmic shift regarding environmental awareness. Fashion houses are restructuring the foundation of how their garments are produced in order to reduce waste and appeal to the more ethically concerned consumer. Is sustainability of great concern to you and your label? What is the La Collection ethos in relation to slow fashion?
Absolutely! I’d hate for my designs to go to waste too soon! Many traditional fashion houses produce their designs with a shelf-life of three months. However, La Collection aims for longer seasons and carrying pieces throughout the year. In addition to this - our ethos is focused on care and maintains the elimination of over-producing garments. Investing in having our Ateliers and production as close as possible, means no unnecessary transportation is taken. As a team, we’re extremely proud of our responsible manufacturing. On occasion, this aspect has cut into our margins in order to be 100% authentic in what we do.
Generally, how vital is the internet and social media in creating and upholding a business? Recently, Bottega Veneta deleted all trace of their digital footprint. What are your views about going off-grid?
It remains important, but it can also be fun! Though there are negative implications of social media - let’s not forget the joy, inspiration and dreams that are created on such platforms. The key is balance and staying true to who you are.
Lastly, what would you like to learn more about? What has the global pandemic taught you?
I’d love to further educate myself on different cultures, traditions and history. I'd also like to pick up my Italian course and learn more about art! The most important lesson the pandemic has taught me is that no matter how you may plan, life will always travel its intended path. We should learn and adapt to being more flexible. I believe that out of every crisis something positive blooms afterwards. It's up to you to make your own luck!
The label’s ready-to-wear line interplays femininity with contemporary elegance. Silhouettes are sharp and structured, contrasted with flowing, draping lines. Understated luxury and classic tailoring are integral to La Collection’s core identity. The label’s muted colour palettes come together to create versatile, trans-seasonal collections that effortlessly transition from day to evening wear.
“Much of my inspiration for La Collection came from travelling, the people I saw in the streets, vintage photographs and clothing, architecture, details in paintings and different cultures around the world. The collection was mainly inspired by the feminine yet nonchalant attitude and details on the streets of Paris. I was also inspired by ideas in my head and the urge to express these wardrobe essentials that I'd wear myself. In each collection my overarching focus is to create timeless pieces in high quality fabrics. Supporting slow fashion, I believe that it's key to be able to continuously re-use clothing.”
Florence Cools, Creative Director