PITTI UOMO 107 - 2025

Boys on Fire
*PITTI UOMO 107

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

The winter edition of Pitti Uomo will be held at Florence's Fortezza da Basso from January 14 to 17, 2025. During these days, Fall/Winter 2025 collections from almost 790 brands—of which 45% are international—will showcase the new frontiers of menswear.

Menswear lovers, rejoice! PITTI Uomo is a journey into the world of menswear and its ongoing evolution, a stage for showcasing new ideas, trends, and collaborative projects through an exhibition path divided into five sections (Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out), and a curated calendar of special events, offering a comprehensive look at the many facets of men’s fashion.

Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo

This season will feature two guest designers: Satoshi Kuwata, who has chosen Florence for the first runway show of his brand Setchu, and MM6 Maison Margiela, which has created an exclusive menswear collection for Pitti Uomo. Many other new projects will be presented at the Fortezza, also through special connections with the world of art and photography, from established names to the most innovative research-driven brands, not to mention the lifestyle segment, which is becoming increasingly influential.

This January, Pitti Immagine's winter shows embrace fire as a unifying element to capture the essence and spirit of the upcoming season. FIRE is the theme behind the new ad campaigns for Pitti Uomo, Pitti Bimbo, and Pitti Filati, each uniquely tailored to reflect the character of each event under the creative direction of Angelo Figus, with graphic editing by Alessandro Gori. FIRE will also inspire the design setup at the Fortezza da Basso, curated by Alessandro Moradei.

“It's a recognition of the generative power of this primal element,” says Agostino Poletto, General Director of Pitti Immagine. “Fire brings people together, warming both body and soul, drawing attention and pointing the way. It serves to entertain, amaze, inspire, melt old ideas and habits, and forge new ones—just like fashion does. We'll spark excitement, ignite desires, and focus on challenges and solutions, just as Pitti Uomo always does.”

The Fortezza da Basso, like a grand department store, welcomes Pitti Uomo exhibitors and offers visitors a curated mix of brands and styles that meet market demands. The five sections – Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out – are confirmed, showcasing the Fall/Winter 2025 collections: from classic to casual, including innovative and outdoor wear. This edition also introduces an exciting new addition: Knees Up Running Space @ Pitti Uomo 107.

Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo

The evolution of classic style in its most refined and modern expression. From iconic Made in Italy brands to the pinnacle of international tailoring, this is a journey through the forms and materials of the classic wardrobe, always in touch with the contemporary. The destination: impeccable outfits and formal pieces made to be lived in now, yet crafted to last. A style for today’s gentleman and those of the past, defined by the rhythm of timeless elegance.

Marine Serre SS25 at Pitti Uomo

*New Collection
Marine Serre SS25
A Celebration of Grace and Love

written Chidozie Obasi

Marine Serre embarked on a new journey, as the guest designer of Pitti Uomo 106, bringing the runway and the guests outside of Paris for the first time to Florence, Italy.

A passport cover with the signature airbrushed moon pattern was crafted by the renowned local atelier Cuoio di Toscana. By masking the nationalities of the guests with the invitation, the Maison intends to embrace the idea of “Citizens of the World”, leading to the title of the Show. This collection featured both menswear and womenswear showcasing sartorial luxury affair combined with glamorous femininity and the golden age of Italian cinema, blending craftsmanship and Haute Couture sophistication with a tribute to local savoir-faire. The show was set in the Villa di Maiano, a historical estate built in the 15th century.

This unique venue underscores the collection’s splendour and timeless elegance. Located five kilometres from the centre of Florence, it seems to exist in a peaceful world of its own, immersed in the lush green of the hills overlooking the city.

At sunset, the audience is welcomed by the sound of a live orchestral band, offering a ceremonial atmosphere to the set. The opening piece of the show epitomises the quintessence of the brand, transcending temporal and cultural boundaries to set the tone for the inaugural ensemble: an elevated interpretation of glamour and grace. A dramatic couture crinoline, paired with an artfully crafted top adorned with vintage jewellery, makes a striking statement. Following are two impeccably tailored black men’s suits: a nod to Italian elegance.

A majestic cocktail dress, featuring a contrasting lilac jersey hood drapery and tan mesh patchwork, embodies the signature Marine Serre hybridization approach. Finally, the introductory section culminates with purple glossy leather silhouettes, seamlessly transitioning into the second chapter of the show. Heavily inspired by the golden age of crime fiction in cinema, the following looks offer a fierce and bold reinterpretation of the archetypes. Dominated by a striking black and red palette, the collection features a dynamic mix of sartorial silhouettes and sensuous airbrushed leather, evocative of the late seventies allure. This aesthetic is seamlessly blended with post-industrial attitudes.

MARINE SERRE
SS 2025 Runway
during
PITTI UOMO

A camel version of the airbrushed leather total look heralds a new chapter in this journey through vibrant daily silhouettes, reviving hallmark materials of the brand: upcycled tartan scarves and cotton tote bags, signature silk scarves ingeniously twisted and encased in mesh fabric. Regenerated denim is also reimagined, traversing to the Far West with leather embellishments and culminating in an exquisite couture dress. New regenerated materials also make their debut like this cotton padded comfort poplin pieces and innovative designs crafted from upcycled tennis bags.

all images
(c) MARINE SERRE during PITTI UOMO 2024