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Jonathan Bergstrom

Jonell Lennon & Mark Pittman - Interview

Jonell Lennon & Mark Pittman - Interview

.aesthetic talk
Dorothy Rice
*New Look Model & Painter


written + interview Jonathan Bergström

 

Dorothy Rice (1924 - 2023) was an artist whose work spanned across multiple disciplines, including painting, sculpture and silkscreens in addition to her celebrated career as a fashion model.

 

Known for her bold approach, she defied traditional boundaries throughout her life. Her iconic role as the face of Christian Dior’s New Look collection catapulted her into the fashion limelight, resulting in collaborations with top fashion photographers, as well as performances in more than 100 plays and several acclaimed TV shows.

In this conversation with Le Mile Magazine, Jonell Lennon and Mark Pittman (representatives of Dorothy's estate) offer a deep dive into Dorothy’s legacy, shedding light on her artistic evolution, her global influences, and the guiding philosophies behind her work.

 
Dorothy Rice, painting in studio, 1975, courtesy of Dorothy Rice Art Company LE MILE Magazine

Dorothy Rice
painting in studio, 1975
courtesy of Dorothy Rice Art Company

 

Dorothy Rice
Marshes, ca. 1988-1990
Silkscreen on Paper, 22 x 30 in

 
 

Jonathan Bergstrom
Dorothy displayed artistic talent from a young age. earning an invitation to the Art Students League of New York at 14. What sparked this early interest?
Jonell Lennon & Mark Pittman
Dorothy’s early interest in the arts was deeply rooted in her familial origins. She descended from a long line of talented artists, including her father who had a successful commercial art studio in Manhattan. Dorothy spent summers working with him at his studio where she learned to draw and do illustration work. Dorothy wanted to be an artist, and her father supported her. Upon his urging, Dorothy applied and was accepted to the Art Students League when she was just 14. She went to high school during the day and took art classes at night where most of her classmates were more than a decade older than her.

To someone who isn’t familiar with Dorothy, how would you characterize her as an artist?
Dorothy was a versatile artist whose intellectual curiosity about people, culture, fashion and the human spirit pushed her to try not only a variety of mediums but also different artistic fields. Despite her father wanting her to paint, Dorothy explored a variety of art forms. Her resolve was evident in her artistic journey, beginning as an illustrator in her father's studio at 13, transitioning to modeling at 15, and later, acting in more than 100 plays and multiple television movies before shifting her attention back to painting in her 40s. Dorothy spent the next several decades experimenting with materials, technique and subject matter, using oils with a palette knife, watercolors, sculptures and silkscreens. She typically built collections based upon specific locations throughout the world. She did not want to be put into a box and felt it was essential for an artist to continuously evolve. 


How did she go from being an artist to becoming a highly sought-after model in the fashion industry? 

When Dorothy was 15, on an evening out with Art Students League classmates at the legendary nightclub El Morocco in Manhattan, she was "discovered" by Vogue photographer John Rawlings. That connection led to a shift in focus to modeling. Dorothy started with girl-next-door shoots for Town & Country and pinups for Earl Moran. Her big break came shortly after WWII when Christian Dior chose her to be the face of his “New Look” collection for American Vogue. Dorothy traveled to Paris for the shoot. She said the French models she met were upset that she was chosen for this honor; they felt a French woman should represent Dior’s clothes. Once the Vogue issue featuring Dorothy hit the newsstands, Dorothy shot to stardom. 

What qualities do you believe led Christian Dior to choose Dorothy as the face of his “New Look Collection” for American Vogue?
Dior scouted hundreds of models in France before expanding his search to America to find the woman he felt best projected the sultry image he wanted for his collection. Dorothy believed Dior was initially interested in her because she had the physical attributes he required: a voluptuous body and a young, blank face. Interestingly, Dorothy didn’t yet see herself as a sophisticated woman. She was just 21 and had done mostly girl-next-door shoots. It was Bettina Ballard, the fashion editor at Vogue, who convinced Dorothy that with the right makeup, styling, and attitude she could adapt to fit the part. Dorothy worked with the creative team and studied every aspect of Dior’s collection to ensure she could deliver the look and presence Dior wanted. 

 
 

“Dorothy was a versatile artist driven by intellectual curiosity, starting as an illustrator in her father’s studio at 13, modeling at 15, acting in over 100 plays, and returning to painting in her 40s. She believed in continuous evolution, experimenting with various mediums and styles throughout her life.”

Jonell Lennon & Mark Pittman speaks with Jonathan Bergstrom on Dorothy Rice
LE MILE .Digital

 
 
Dorothy Rice Mountain View,  ca. 1988-1990, Silkscreen on Paper, 22 x 30 in LE MILE Magazine

Dorothy Rice
Mountain View, ca. 1988-1990
Silkscreen on Paper, 22 x 30 in

 

In what ways did her modeling career influence her artistic work?
As a model, Dorothy spent years working with renowned designers, stylists and high art fashion photographers such as Milton Greene, Horst P. Horst and Francesco Scavullo, honing her adaptability and attention to detail. She constantly evolved her look to suit changing tastes; one minute she could look like an ingenue, the next a glamorous runway model. Most of the time Dorothy did her own makeup and hair and credited her artistic eye to keeping her in demand for 18 years. When she transitioned to painting, she said she was happy to turn the focus away from herself to the world around her. Dorothy took a similar approach to painting as she did to modeling, constantly studying and experimenting with different styles and techniques. 

Could you point out some of the standout collaborations Dorothy had with top fashion photographers and designers throughout her modeling career?
The two standouts are her collaborations with designer Christian Dior and photographer Peter Basch. Dior chose Dorothy to be the American face of his “New Look” collection, but she also modeled his clothes numerous other times. In the mid-1950s, Dorothy teamed up with Dior again for a documentary about his life that was filmed in New York. They became good friends and planned to work together on more projects, but he died tragically of a heart attack in 1957. 
Peter Basch was a well-known fashion photographer in the 50s with whom Dorothy collaborated extensively. He loved her versatile look. When Dorothy was starting out, Basch helped her by taking photos for her lookbooks, which were books models used to get work before the rise of the internet. When Dorothy’s career later took off and she was a top model, she repaid Basch by regularly posing for him. 

Which of Dorothy’s photos or collaborations do you hold as personal favorites?
Jonell Lennon
All of Dorothy’s modeling photos are incredible. One of my favorite collaborations of Dorothy’s was with the photographer Ewing Krainin, who coincidentally was my maternal grandmother’s cousin, which Dorothy and I discovered years into our friendship. Dorothy said the photos Krainin took of her didn’t portray her as the most glamorous or sophisticated version of herself but captured her exactly how she saw herself.  

How did she balance her modeling career with her passion for painting during the height of her modeling success?
Dorothy didn’t paint during the peak of her modeling career. Instead, in order to achieve the level of perfection she sought as a model, Dorothy focused exclusively on every aspect of the craft: fashion, design, lighting, photography, hair, makeup, etc. When Dorothy first started out, she was uncomfortable in front of the camera and spent months learning to overcome her fear. She referred to modeling as her “first acting role.” After years of studying and working on her craft, she learned to create and portray the persona each shoot called for.  During this time, Dorothy was repped by John Robert Powers who negotiated her deals, but she had to get her own work, which she said she did through hustling and word of mouth. Dorothy returned to painting only after her modeling and acting careers ended. Once she made that transition, she was solely committed to her art.  

With the move from New York to Beverly Hills, Dorothy began to transition more into television and acting. How did this change of environment impact her personal life and professional work?
Dorothy met her husband, Stanley Chase, in New York while she was transitioning from modeling to acting and studying with Uta Hagen. Stanley was an up-and-coming theater producer, backing Bertolt Brecht’s The Threepenny Opera (which ran for seven years and helped legitimize off-Broadway productions), as well as plays written by Eugene O’Neill and Graham Green. During their New York years, Dorothy and Stanley were in the center of the social scene, befriending authors such as Gore Vidal and Tennessee Williams, and stage legends such as Rosemary Harris, Anne Bancroft and Marlene Dietrich. Dorothy and Stanley supported each other’s careers and were also colleagues. When they moved to Los Angeles, they both shifted their focus to television and film, collaborating when they could. For example, Dorothy appeared alongside George C. Scott in the Emmy award-winning Fear on Trial, which was produced by Stanley. Dorothy helped Stanley with his projects, including giving notes on scripts and advising on casting and directors. While Dorothy embraced much of the California lifestyle, she was always a New Yorker at heart, including never learning to drive.  

What drove her decision to go back to painting after her successful modeling and acting careers, and did her artistic focus shift when she came back to it?
When Dorothy transitioned from modeling to acting, she deeply enjoyed the craft but didn’t enjoy the business, the politics or the way women were treated. Despite being offered prime roles, she wanted to challenge and express herself in a more in-depth way which led her back to her first love, painting. While modeling and acting, Dorothy developed a disciplined artistic approach that emphasized constant study, practice and experimentation. That same process was applied to her painting career but instead of concentrating on her own performance she found joy through engaging with inspiring people and places, whether a farmer’s market in Morocco, a street scene in France, a beach in California or children playing in Mexico. 

Do you have any personal stories or anecdotes about Dorothy that capture her creative spirit and the influence she had on those around her?
While modeling, Dorothy lived for nine years at the Barbizon Hotel, a women’s only residence in Manhattan, which was filled with aspiring models, actresses, dancers and artists. She loved being part of a female artistic community and supporting other women.  As her career blossomed, Dorothy mentored younger models and enjoyed passing along what she had learned about the craft and business.  She displayed the same generosity with actor Jack Lemmon. She had known Jack for years as their fathers were friends and also through studying together in an acting group. Jack was not yet successful, but Dorothy was struck by his immense talent.

She felt his lack of confidence was preventing him from landing good roles. Dorothy spent hours working with Jack on scenes for their classes and prepping for auditions. His confidence blossomed and his career soon took off.  Later, Dorothy and Jack worked together professionally in a French comedy called La Ronde, which was a nice full-circle moment for both of them.

 

Dorothy Rice
Untitled, ca. 1976-1979
3.5 x 12 in

 

“Dorothy’s big break came when Christian Dior chose her as the face of his "New Look" collection for American Vogue, propelling her to international fame. Her collaborations with top photographers and designers, including Dior and Peter Basch, solidified her as a highly sought-after model.”

Jonell Lennon & Mark Pittman speaks with Jonathan Bergstrom on Dorothy Rice
LE MILE .Digital

 

all images (c) Dorothy Rice

Dana Montlack - Interview

Dana Montlack - Interview

.aesthetic talk
Dana Montlack on Art and Science
*Microscopic Worlds


written + interview Jonathan Bergstrom

 

As both an interdisciplinary biospheric artist and researcher, Dana Montlack bridges the gap between art and science.

 

Montlack's work, distinguished by its unique composite style and mixed media, urges viewers to see the unity of all living things and to reflect on our environmental impact. Her work has been exhibited in museums and galleries worldwide, including the Whitney Marine Biology Research Center, Atlantis The Palm in Dubai, and the Museum of Contemporary Art in San Diego. Alongside her artistic career, she is also a devoted educator, teaching Visual Arts and Contemporary Art History at Georgia State University. We had the chance to talk with Montlack about the challenges of translating science into art, her deep affection for the ocean, and how art can bring awareness to the wider public about the state of the environment.

 

Dana Montlack
SIO-24. Sea snail, Venus comb murex
topographic and bathymetric map of the Sea of Cortez

 

Dana Montlack
SIO-75. Giant Kelp, Gulf of California
Sea Nettle tendrils

 
 

Jonathan Bergstrom
I understand that your grandfather played a pivotal role in shaping your career path. Can you share more about his influence and the ways he impacted your journey?
Dana Montlack
Both my grandparents were hugely influential in my life and career. My grandfather was a physician in Cleveland, Ohio. When I was 15, he took me under his wing and taught me how to take and develop X-rays in his office, probably to keep me out of trouble. My grandmother was a dancer who left Akron, Ohio, at 15 to pursue a career in dancing with the American Ballet School in NYC. They were a continuous stream of encouragement, emphasizing that falling and getting up again and again is part of the journey.

What is your method for merging art and scientific elements in your interdisciplinary work?
I merge artistic and scientific elements, propelled by a relentless pursuit of understanding and decoding nature's secrets. I perceive each layer as an intriguing challenge to uncover, akin to sifting through the layers of sediments on the seafloor, excavating soil strata or deciphering the growth rings of a tree. Importantly, I thrive on collaborative efforts, as they not only provide ongoing personal and intellectual development opportunities but also foster a sense of shared achievement.


Can you walk us through your process for creating your composite imagery pieces?

I am inspired by geological locations, species that one cannot see with the naked eye and the behavior of particular animals like the octopus, bower bird, and the waggle dance of honey bees. Then I do a deep dive to know everything about the area, species, etc. I take hundreds of photographs, both microscopic and macroscopic, including archival maps, topographics and bathymetrics. I juxtapose this with scientific data using layers of information, often drawing and painting on top of photographs and reincorporate that into the final image.

What difficulties do you encounter in making scientific concepts accessible to viewers through visual art?
The allure of abstract ideas and forms is undeniable, and I've come to realize that it can pose a challenge for many. Viewers often find it difficult to extract information from abstraction, leading them to overlook its significance. To tackle this, I've started incorporating subtle hints in my work, be it in the title or a quote, to nudge viewers towards their own understanding.

 
 

“I merge artistic and scientific elements, propelled by a relentless pursuit of understanding nature's secrets. Collaborative efforts foster ongoing personal and intellectual development and a sense of shared achievement.”

Dana Montlack speaks with Jonathan Bergstrom
LE MILE .Digital

 
 

Dana Montlack
W-30. Southern goose barnacles, jellyfish polyps, Catostylus blue blubber jellyfish
Chromogenic print mounted on acrylic, 24 in x 48 in

 

What do you think the microscopic world can tell us about our daily lives? 
The microscopic world creates curiosity and awe, prompting us to ask questions and wonder about the unseen aspects of the world around us. By examining the intricate details at a microscopic level, we can better understand the world around us and how it impacts our daily experience.

Is it challenging to maintain scientific accuracy while also conveying artistic creativity?
It is less about accuracy and more about my understanding of the science and the narrative I want to create. The images are multi-layered and complex. Sometimes I get lost in the creative process and forget some of the essential data I have encompassed. It’s more about remembering which data and imagery I’ve included; at a certain point the images are not recognizable.

Your work can be seen in Waves of Wonder at the Ships of the Sea Maritime Museum in Savannah, Georgia through September 2024. Can you tell us more about it?
My work there draws its inspiration from the delicate and captivating interplay between land and sea. This exploration is a testament to the vulnerability and resilience of coastal ecosystems, where the ebb and flow of tides reveal a hidden world of diverse life forms and intricate interactions. This opportunity was awarded by the Georgia Sea Grant, NOAA, and the assistance from Dr. Mona Behl (UGA), Dr. Joel Kotska (Georgia Tech), and the Imaging Core Facility (GSU).

What draws you to the ocean as a central theme in your work?
My work is a tribute to the ocean, a testament to its scientific and sensory significance. The ocean is where I find clarity and grounding. The thick, invigorating salty air keeps me present. The sight of the vast, ever-changing sea brings me calm.
Scientifically, the ocean is a lifeline for our planet, shaping weather patterns, providing a home for countless species, and generating a significant portion of the oxygen we breathe. Sensory-wise, the ocean's sounds, smells, and sights are a wellspring of inspiration for my creativity. By infusing the ocean into my art, I strive to share its beauty and importance, fostering a deeper appreciation and a call to action to protect this invaluable resource.

You have collaborated with scientists from institutions such as the Scripps Institution of Oceanography. How has that experience been for you?
I am deeply honored by my collaborations with scientists at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography and others around the globe. I am grateful for the time and insights these scientists share with me, as each interaction is a relationship that informs my work. I continue to work with scientists, finding kindred spirits in their curious pursuit of understanding and interpreting the world around us.
Scientists’ approach to rigorous research and dedication to uncovering truths about our natural world inspires me every day. It is a privilege to witness their commitment firsthand and to translate their findings into visual narratives that can resonate with a broader audience. This collaboration has reinforced my belief in the power of interdisciplinary efforts to address and solve some of the most pressing environmental challenges we face today.

How do you think art can influence people’s perspectives on environmental issues?
Art can transform how people perceive and interact with the environment, encouraging a more thoughtful, informed, and proactive approach to environmental stewardship. It can also illustrate the interconnectedness of all species and ecosystems, emphasizing the importance of biodiversity and the impact of human actions on the environment.
Lastly, art can be an educational resource, making scientific concepts and data more accessible and understandable, as well as a lasting record of the state of the environment, preserving the beauty of natural landscapes and documenting environmental changes over time.

Beyond the art world, what or who inspires you? Are there any rituals or activities that connect you with creativity?
The philosophers Wittgenstein and Paul Feyerabend have had a profound influence on my thinking and continue to be relevant in our present culture. Wittgenstein’s work, particularly his concept of rule-following in the Philosophical Investigations, resonates with me as I see the growth of natural language coding as closely aligned with this idea. At the same time, Feyerabend’s realisation that science is a belief system like any other and is shaped by culture, but is not necessarily hierarchically progressive, helps to balance my perspective and encourages me to think critically about the role of science in society. These philosophers have provided me with valuable insights and have helped me to think more deeply about the nature of language, knowledge, and the ways in which we understand and engage with the world.

What impact do you hope your artwork will have?
As an artist, I am driven by a profound purpose to ignite curiosity and inspire a deeper understanding of the Earth's need for protection, shedding light on both its visible and invisible aspects, which is why I often underscore the interconnectedness and interdependence of all species for survival. By bringing these critical issues to the forefront, I urge individuals to introspect on their relationship with nature and to actively contribute to its preservation for future generations.

 

Dana Montlack
C-17. Coral, ocean, netting, seaweed, cells, giant kelp
Photograph printed on archival paper

 

“Art can transform how people perceive and interact with the environment, encouraging a more thoughtful, informed approach to environmental stewardship and emphasizing the interconnectedness of all species and ecosystems.”

Dana Montlack speaks with Jonathan Bergstrom
LE MILE .Digital

 

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all images (c) Wolfe von Lenkiewicz Studio