VON KÖCK Sahara Collection

.new collection
VON KÖCK
*Ancient Elegance with Sahara Collection

written Amanda Mortenson

Vienna's elite Graben pulses with whispered histories, and at its core, VON KÖCK, Austria's premier jeweler, is shaking up the luxury scene with an ethical twist.

The launch of their Heritage and Recycling Diamond Jewelry Collection last year sent shockwaves through Europe’s high-end jewelry market, intertwining opulence with sustainability and setting a new benchmark for conscientious luxury. Building on this momentum, VON KÖCK has now expanded its revolutionary Sahara Collection. This latest addition signifies a new step towards eco-friendly elegance, demonstrating that high-end jewelry can honor the earth and its discerning wearers.

Sahara Diamond Loop Large Yellow

Sahara Open Drop Yellow Earrings

The Sahara Collection is VON KÖCK’s bold manifesto on environmental stewardship. These diamonds are time travelers, sourced from estates, heirlooms, and auctions, carrying whispers of the past. Through painstaking craftsmanship, each gem is reborn—recut, polished, and recertified to contemporary perfection. This process ensures the exceptional quality VON KÖCK is famed for while leaving no fresh environmental scars.

Every piece in the Sahara Collection is a harmonious blend of history and modernity, each telling its own unique story. The Sahara Open Drop Small exudes delicate grace, while the Sahara Diamond Loop Large commands attention. The Sahara Open Drop Bracelet and the Sahara 3 Stone Ring blend classic charm with avant-garde flair.

“Our Sahara Collection - a mesmerizing journey where ancient gemstones are reborn with a modern touch. Each piece is a testament to history, craftsmanship, and timeless beauty.”

Felix von Köck, VON KÖCK

also read
Von Köck Revolutionizes Glamour Europe's First Eco-Chic Heritage Diamond Collection

Sahra Open Drop Small Yellow

Sahara 3 Stone Pendant Yellow

Sahara 3 Stone Ring Yellow

Visionary leaders Felix Köck and Nattaya Englinger breathe new life into a legacy that spans generations. At the heart of their mission is a fierce dedication to environmental responsibility and a commitment to offering only the finest, most ethically sourced creations.

“The fusion of tradition and innovation, creating an atmosphere full of imagination and values where our work can flourish and grow into new dimensions - this is the world of VON KÖCK.”

says Felix Köck, encapsulating the brand’s philosophy.

discover www.vonkoeck.com
follow @vonkoeck

Calvin Klein - CK One Essence

*New Campaign
Calvin Klein
CK One Essence

written Amanda Mortenson

Calvin Klein's summer 2024 Ad Campaign, "CK One Essence," is a hypnotic exploration of modern sensuality and timeless allure.

With visionary direction by Ben Keren and the evocative eye of Alasdair McLellan, the new campaign reshapes the CK One legacy, making a fierce declaration for the new era. Alasdair McLellan’s photographic brilliance dazzles as he assembles an eclectic ensemble featuring Abby Champion, Blesnya Minher, Cheikh Dia, Finley Prentice, Kit Butler, Mathilda Gvarliani, Noor Mutsaers, Troy Untalan, and Yenni Schwan. Each model pulses with the campaign's core mantra: intensity for all.

creative direction BEN KEREN
seen ALASDAIR MCLELLAN
styled CAMILLA NICKERSON
casting direction MARK FOLTZ

In a nostalgic nod to the revolutionary 1994 CK One launch, the campaign embraces the minimalist aesthetic that cemented its place as a cultural icon. McLellan, however, breathes new life into this iteration, imbuing it with heightened intimacy and vibrancy. The iconic black-and-white palette remains, but the compositions are tighter, gazes more piercing, and movements more fluid, mirroring a deeper connection to the fragrance's intensified essence.

The genius choice of New Order’s "Blue Monday" as the soundtrack ties the campaign to a musical legacy that spans generations. Thanks to this!
Its pulsating beats and haunting vocals provide the perfect backdrop to the dynamic visuals, amplifying the campaign's sense of urgency and passion.

The models, adorned in Calvin Klein's iconic minimalist threads, move and interact in a choreography that blurs the boundaries between dance and intimacy. Each frame exudes raw emotion and effortless cool, illustrating a world where gender fluidity and personal expression are celebrated.

models
ABBY CHAMPION + BLESNYA MINGER + CHEIKH DIA + FINLEY PRENTICE + KIT BUTLER + MATHILDA GVARLIANI + NOOR MUTSAERS + TROY UNTALAN + YENNI SCHWAN

watch campaign film

The brilliance of this campaign lies in its deft balance of staying true to the original CK One ethos while pushing the envelope to reflect contemporary sensibilities. The fragrance, with its increased concentration, promises a deeper sensory experience, much like the campaign's visuals. It’s a symphony of scent and sight, resonating with the intensity and clarity of modern identity.

"CK One Essence" transcends being just a fragrance campaign, it speaks to a generation that cherishes authenticity, inclusivity, and the power of personal connection. With Ben Keren's creative direction and Alasdair McLellan's sharp eye, Calvin Klein has woven a narrative that is timeless and urgently relevant.

Trends may fade, but the CK One Essence campaign exemplifies the lasting impact of reimagining iconic moments with a minimalist approach. Calvin Klein's latest campaign underscores the brand's commitment to enduring style, demonstrating that true essence and a refined vision have a profound effect beyond fleeting trends.

(c) Calvin Klein seen by Alasdair McLellan

Ferragamo in Florence 2024 Campaign

.new campaign
Ferragamo in Florence
2024 Ad Campaign by Juergen Teller

written Adriana Lang

Ferragamo’s Fall 2024 campaign "Ferragamo in Florence," presents a blend of historical and contemporary elements, orchestrated by Creative Director Ferdinando Verderi and seen by Juergen Teller.

The new campaign situates Ferragamo’s designs within the rich cultural context of Florence, drawing on the city’s iconic art and architecture.

A notable feature of the campaign is the inclusion of Peter Saville, the graphic designer responsible for Ferragamo’s new logo. Photographed at the Galleria Romanelli, Saville stands amidst neo-Hellenistic sculptures, creating a visual dialogue between the historical art forms and the modernity the designer represents. This comparison highlights the ongoing relevance of classical artistry in contemporary fashion and culture.

The campaign also features models Lina Zhang, Raquel Zimmerman, Yasmine Warsame, and Tim Schuhmacher. Each portrait is set against significant Florentine backdrops, from grand architectural structures to intimate gallery spaces.

(c) Ferragamo

(c) Ferragamo
Peter Saville, Galleria Romanelli

These settings enhance the narrative of Florence as a hub of artistic heritage and modern creativity, emphasizing the continuity between past and present.

Verderi’s creative direction focuses on capturing the essence of Florence through the lens of Juergen Teller. The clothing designs reflect Ferragamo’s signature elegance while integrating elements that resonate with Florence’s artistic legacy, honoring its own historical roots.

Teller’s photographic style, known for its candid and raw quality, brings an unfiltered perspective to the campaign. His images capture the natural beauty of the models and the settings, avoiding excessive stylization.

(c) Ferragamo
Yasmine Warsame, Piazza S.ta Trinita

(c) Ferragamo
Lina Zhang, Caffè Rivoire

(c) Ferragamo
Galleria Romanelli

.selected *S 64 Dark Melange by Thonet

.selected
Thonet S 64 Dark Melange
Herkner Meets Breuer

written Amanda Mortenson

The S 64 chair by Marcel Breuer, an icon of modernist design since its inception in the late 1920s, gets a stunning new look in Thonet’s "Rethinking Classics: S 64 DARK MELANGE" collection.

This reimagining transforms Breuer’s classic into a piece that speaks to contemporary tastes while honoring its storied past.

THONET
S 64 Cantilever Chair DARK MELANGE by Sebastian Herkner

Breuer’s S 64 is celebrated for its seamless fusion of form and function, combining a chromed steel frame with a wooden seat and backrest in woven cane. The original design’s appeal lies in its minimalist aesthetic and the elegant contrast between materials. The new S 64 DARK MELANGE by Sebastian Herkner edition enhances this interplay with a sophisticated dark woven cane, adding depth and a modern twist to Breuer´s timeless design.

The DARK MELANGE collection brings a fresh, versatile aesthetic to the S 64, perfect for a variety of interiors. The dark woven cane, with its rich spectrum of blacks, browns, and natural hues, is achieved through a meticulous natural dyeing process. Each piece of cane exhibits subtle variations in color, highlighting its unique, artisanal quality, emphasizing the natural beauty of the material.

The reimagined S 64 fits effortlessly into diverse settings—from sleek office spaces to cozy home environments. Its dark woven cane offers a contemporary edge that complements the chair’s classic form, making it a standout piece in any space. Beyond aesthetics, the material’s high lightfastness, durability, and abrasion resistance ensure that the S 64 DARK MELANGE is as functional as it is aesthetic.

Thonet’s collaboration with young designer Jan Christian Schulz was crucial in developing the DARK MELANGE cane. Together, they explored various dyeing techniques and material properties to achieve the perfect balance of color and durability. This rigorous process ensures that the new cane meets the highest standards of quality, maintaining the integrity and elegance of Breuer’s original design. The DARK MELANGE collection features five distinctive wood stain colors—Black, Chestnut, Amber, Rosewood, and Sage—each paired with a matching powder-coated frame. These colors highlight the natural grain of the wood, creating a rich, textured look that pairs beautifully with the dark cane. The powder-coated frames, a departure from the original chromed steel, add warmth and a more inviting feel to the S 64, enhancing its appeal in private and public spaces.

also read Thonet S 64 Cantilever Chair *Chair of the Year 2024

In "Rethinking Classics: S 64 DARK MELANGE," Thonet honors the legacy of Marcel Breuer while pushing the boundaries of modern design. The result is a chair that is timeless and timely, a testament to the enduring appeal of great design.

discover more www.thonet.de
content produced by lemilestudios

McQueen AW24 Campaign by Seán McGirr

.new campaign
McQueen AW24
Urban Primal by Seán McGirr

written Alban E. Smajli

McQueen's Autum/Winter 2024 new ad campaign unleashes an untamed narrative, celebrating the visceral essence of East London's youth.

Under the new creative direction of Seán McGirr, the collection embodies raw energy and eclecticism, pulling no punches in its representation of the city's primal and poetic heartbeat.

“McQueen is a London-born brand and has always represented an idea of London that I’m deeply attached to. It has a very visceral kind of energy, driven by the eclectic cast of characters you see here. I want to bring that energy to life with the rigour and raw feeling that makes the city’s air hum, leaning deep into its tensions — something that feels poetic and primal; powerful and real. Something that comes from people. I want to bring light to that.”

— Seán McGirr, London, 10th July 2024
Creative Director at McQueen

McQueen AW24 Ad Campaign

creative direction SEÀN McGIRR
art direction CHRISTOPHER SIMMONDS
seen GLEN LOUCHFORD
styled MARIE CHAIX

(c) McQueen

(c) McQueen

Shot by Glen Luchford and styled by Marie Chaix, the campaign is a fierce tribute to London's renegade spirit. Each frame captures the raw essence of East London's urban nomads, the diverse souls navigating concrete jungles and sprawling streets in search of primal pleasures. McGirr's vision ignites with raw textures, twisted silhouettes, and taut designs that pulse with power and authenticity.

From the shattered jet-stone embroidery on sleek black wool mohair suits to the tufted denim and oxblood leather, each piece is crafted for those who embrace instinctual living. The hard metal T-bar buckle, a recurring motif, is both functional and symbolic, capturing the duality of restraint and rebellion on London's streets. This detail graces everything from the tightly strapped Sling bag to the trailing tendrils of the Fringe loafer, perfectly balancing swaddling comfort with urban resilience.

The tactile allure of the collection is unmistakable. McGirr's use of rich materials like natural shearling, honey shearling seams, and black leather studded bomber jackets offer a sensuous pleasure that clashes beautifully with the hardened fragments of city life. It's a wardrobe for the modern urbanite, one who navigates the vagaries of London with a style that is both primal and poetic.

McGirr, a Central Saint Martins alum and former Head of Ready-to-Wear at JW Anderson, injects a fierce new energy into McQueen. His debut collection is a love letter to London, a city throbbing with raw, visceral energy—an ideal canvas for a brand synonymous with subversive strength and untamed power.

watch campaign film
AW 2024

(c) McQueen

(c) McQueen

The new McQueen AW24 collection transcends mere clothing, delving into the essence of character. Featuring an eclectic lineup including Awwal Adeoti, Libby Bennett, and Nyajouk Gatdet, each figure embodies McQueen’s audacious spirit. From the smashed chandelier and bicycle reflector embroidery on a tulle dress to exaggerated padded collars and sleek fedoras, every look narrates a tale of urban grit and raw glamour.

McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 2024 campaign is a potent reminder that true style is born from the streets, from the eclectic souls who wear their individuality like armor. With Seán McGirr at the helm, McQueen’s legacy of fierce, unapologetic fashion not only endures but evolves.

Mugler x Gentle Monster *Eyewear Capsule

.new campaign
Mugler x Gentle Monster Collaboration
Visionary Collision

written Amanda Mortenson

Fashion lovers, brace yourselves!
Mugler and Gentle Monster have joined forces, pushing the envelope with a daring new eyewear collection.

The collaboration is a high-voltage fusion of Mugler’s iconic heritage and Gentle Monster’s futuristic edge. This embodies the fearless spirit of both brands, capturing the essence of Mugler’s ‘Les Insectes’ haute couture collection from 1997 with a modern twist. Think geometric marvels and goggle shapes that scream avant-garde.

Georgia Palmer for Gentle Monster x MUGLER Campaign
2024 Collaboration

Colin Jones

Gentle Monster x MUGLER
2024 Collaboration

Georgia Palmer

Starring Colin Jones and Georgia Palmer and shot by Theo Liu, the campaign is a visual feast. It’s a nod to legendary visual innovators like Helmut Newton and Manfred Thierry Mugler, merging high fashion with kinetic energy. The visuals are an art form, showcasing the dynamic synergy between Mugler and Gentle Monster. Beyond the eyewear, the collaboration extends to its packaging, blending organic and structural forms that are as innovative as the pieces themselves. This is about reimagining what eyewear can be. To celebrate, Seoul and Shanghai will host special activations featuring ephemeral spaces and kinetic structures, reflecting the bold identities of the two brands.

This partnership is a seismic shift in the fashion landscape. Mugler x Gentle Monster redefines what it means to be visionary, setting the stage for the future of eyewear.

Mark your calendars for July 18th, 2024!

all images
(c) MUGLER x GENTLE MONSTER Collaboration
2024

CELINE HOMME *Skate Summer 2024

.new campaign
CELINE HOMME Skate Summer '24
California Dreamin’

written Monica de Luna

CELINE HOMME skates into a sun-soaked SoCal summer fantasy with its Summer 2024 campaign, aptly titled “Skate.” Hedi Slimane, the house’s creative director, once again works his magic both behind the camera and in styling, exploring the aesthetics and youth culture of southern California skateboarding.

The campaign follows a crew of stylish young rebels from the palm-lined streets to the fringes of the Los Angeles desert. Slimane conjures a languid, sultry atmosphere, shooting in both vivid color and stark black and white, creating a snapshot of youthful defiance. The visuals are drenched in sunlight, capturing the laid-back yet charged vibe of the West Coast.

Design and styling bring together a nostalgic blend of 70s flair and 90s grunge, seamlessly woven into Slimane’s signature rakishly elegant silhouettes. The collection features cruiser boards, skate pants, or sunglasses, all echoing the rebellious spirit and carefree lifestyle of California’s skate culture.

Dash Snow’s raw, collage-style artwork makes a bold appearance, splashing the collection with anarchy and creativity. His typographical designs and boundary-pushing aesthetics breathe life into jackets and other pieces.

Slimane transforms his fascination with vintage subcultures into a distinctly cool and modern vision, capturing the essence of a generation that’s ready to shred and redefine boundaries.

CELINE HOMME’s Summer '24 collection channels the wild, untamed spirit of skate culture.

Hit up CELINE.com and ride the wave of the season.

(c) CELINE Skate Summer 2024
all images photographed by Hedi Slimane

AARKE *Crystal Glassware

.selected
AARKE
Crystal Glass Masterpieces

written Amanda Mortenson

AARKE redefines modern luxury with its exquisite crystal glassware collection. Known for their sleek Scandinavian design, AARKE's crystal glass sets and carafe epitomize refined living.

AARKE's crystal glass sets capture the essence of understated sophistication. Each piece, crafted with meticulous precision, shines with a brilliance that enhances the beauty of any beverage. Sipping a classic cocktail or a simple glass of sparkling water becomes a refined experience with these crystal glasses. Their minimalist design exemplifies AARKE's dedication to merging beauty with practicality, creating pieces that are aesthetically stunning and functional.

also read AARKE *Carbonator Pro

The crystal glass carafe from AARKE commands attention with its sleek, elongated silhouette and impeccable craftsmanship. This carafe transforms the act of pouring water or wine into an art form, elevating daily rituals with its elegance. It stands as a beacon of refined taste, enhancing the ambiance of any dining or living space.

AARKE's glassware sets itself apart through exquisite design and superior quality. Crafted from high-quality crystal, each piece offers durability and a lasting shine. The carefully considered weight and balance of the glasses and carafe provide a tactile pleasure that heightens the drinking experience.

AARKE also reflects a commitment to sustainability in its manufacturing process. By prioritizing eco-friendly practices, AARKE ensures that its products are responsible choices for the environmentally conscious consumer, aligning luxury with ethical standards. Read more here!

AARKE Glassware Collection
LE MILE .selected

all images (c) lemilestudios, 2024

Incorporating AARKE's crystal glass sets and carafe into your home showcases a commitment to timeless elegance and unmatched style. These pieces, crafted for durability, promise to remain your staple for years of sophisticated enjoyment. Hosting an intimate dinner party or relishing a quiet evening alone, AARKE's glassware effortlessly adds a touch of refinement to any setting.

experience the blend of modern design: www.aarke.com
follow brand on Instagram: @aarke

OLAKALA Summer Core Collection 2024

.New Collection
OLAKALA Summer Core Collection
*Heatwave Ready

written Amanda Mortenson

OLAKALA’s new Summer Core Collection is the ultimate guide to staying stylish during those sweltering days.

Born from the minds of streetwear visionaries Tim Gabel and Nicolas Lazaridis, this collection is their manifesto: a seamless fusion of cutting-edge design and high-performance fabrics, redefining comfort for the urban nomad.

OLAKALA CC Short Sleeve Shirt

OLAKALA CC T-Shirt

First up, the CC T-Shirt. Made from 100% cotton and adorned with the signature OLAKALA logo embroidery, it’s the quintessential all-rounder. Navigating the city or chilling on the beach, this tee has your back. Its laid-back vibe and airy fabric make it an essential for any summer capsule wardrobe.

Back this season, the Anatomy Tanktop is all about those bold seams and stretchy ribbed fabric. From beach workouts to poolside hangs, this tank redefines what it means to move freely and stylishly. Enjoy!

When the heat's on, reach for the CC Short Sleeve Shirt. This hybrid marvel blends the breathability and moisture-wicking prowess of Lyocell and Modal with the toughness of polyester. Light and breezy with a relaxed fit, it flaunts the iconic OLAKALA logo embroidery on the chest pocket, merging function and style seamlessly.

This season, shorts get a serious upgrade with three fresh styles. The Kos Shorts, built from rugged rip-stop fabric, boast an elastic waistband and French pockets—ideal for those easy-going summer nights. For the blazing days, the ultra-light CC Shorts are your savior. With piped side seams, a relaxed fit, and moisture-wicking material, they scream comfort. And then there are the OLAKALA Swim Shorts—true showstoppers. Sporting a great monogram effect that pops on contact with water, a reflective logo print on the leg, an elastic waistband, drawstring with personalized lace tips, and mobile phone side pockets with a comfy triangle lining, these are set to dominate the season.

also read OLAKALA Soccer Capsule *From Stadium to Street

OLAKALA Swim Shorts

No summer collection is complete without the iconic OLAKALA Duffle Bag. This accessory is perfect for any sunny getaway, ensuring you carry your essentials with style. Each piece from the Summer Core Collection 2024 is designed with precision and an eye for detail, ensuring that your summer wardrobe is as functional as it is stylish. No matter whether you’re hitting the beach, the pool, or just chilling in the city, OLAKALA has you covered.

OLAKALA CC T-Shirt

OLAKALA Duffle Bag

OLAKALA's Summer 2024 Capsule Collection is now available online.

discover more www.olakala.de / follow brand @olakalaofficial

all images (c) OLAKALA, 2024

OLAKALA launches *Soccer Capsule

.New Collection
OLAKALA Soccer Capsule
*From Stadium to Street

written Monica de Luna

Game on—OLAKALA drops a new bombshell with their Soccer Capsule, timed perfectly for UEFA Euro 2024.

Stuttgart’s streetwear heavyweights are back, riding the Bloke-Core wave with a fierce twist on the classic football jersey. Pink, green, black, and a bold splash of pink—this collection goes beyond sportswear; it's a fresh take on fashion.

Imagine yourself at a live match or taking over a city park during public viewing. The Soccer Capsule is a lifestyle. The regular-fit shirts, captured in the campaign’s edgy images, show off sporty mesh inserts and sleek piping. The overlapping yoke at the collar? Pure streetwise genius. Add in the iconic logos and patches, and you’ve got a unisex jersey that stands out in any crowd.

The campaign shots capture the essence of street football chic, showcasing the collection in relaxed, confident settings. The shorts, with their elastic waistband and adjustable inner drawstring, scream comfort and style. Side pockets and mesh inserts ensure you’re of course looking good but also moving freely, whether you're on the field or in the urban jungle.

Since 2018, when influencers Nicolas Lazaridis and Tim Gabel founded the brand, it’s become a staple in the streetwear scene. Based in Stuttgart, OLAKALA is known for seasonless, unisex collections that marry sporty basics with a street-ready aesthetic. Their rapid ascent in fashion circles isn't surprising actually—they've got their fingers on the pulse of modern urban style. The Soccer Capsule is the latest testament to OLAKALA’s design ethos—where functionality meets fashion. High-quality materials and innovative designs ensure each piece is as durable as it is stylish.

For the fashion-forward, the Soccer Capsule is a goldmine. It taps into the current Bloke-Core trend, where sportswear intersects with everyday fashion. So, whether you’re gearing up for a match or elevating your streetwear game, the Soccer Capsule is set to be a wardrobe staple.

OLAKALA's Soccer Capsule is now available online.

discover more www.olakala.de / follow brand @olakalaofficial

all images (c) OLAKALA

Lucca *Tuscany’s Tasteful Tradition

Fashion Weekend
LUCCA 2024
Tuscany’s Tasteful Tradition

written Chidozie Obasi

Tuscany is a treasure-trove of ancient culture: from art to craftsmanship, it beholds a quiet potency that has developed through centuries of history.

Lucca Fashion Weekend is one such example: the format created a dynamic encounter between art and the city's historic spaces, tracing new and innovative exploratory paths with the aim of enhancing the local territory and artisanal know-how.

Bottega Bernard

LUCCA Fashion Weekend 2024
Bottega Bernard

Craft tradition and new contemporary visions were the lanes that carried the event along, becoming crossroads and meeting points between generations. A two-day program full of appointments saw a calendar of high artistic and cultural value: installations, talks, exhibitions and presentations were hosted in the most prestigious historical locations.

Three pillars added a firm structure to the event, united by innovation and sustainability: firstly, LFW End was container of presentations for young independent brands, ateliers and local and national craft realities, and talks with independent magazines; LFW Exp, was intended for exhibitions and installations spread among the city’s streets, art and urban fabric in privileged conversation; Lastly, LFW Off promoted initiatives and events by the commercial activities, along the main shopping streets will animate the city streets with presentations and extraordinary openings.

Among the things worthy of note in the first section was: Sotterranea, an exhibition project that saw the city's basement hosting independent brands and prestigious craft realities.

Among the independent brands, once could have found: Damiano Marini, Invaerso, Leight Studio, Maison Lamoureux, Maria Patrizia Marra for accessories; Saman Loira and Aza Lea for clothing. Rovi Lucca, with the Herbarium collection, was the protagonist of an elegant and sophisticated installation in the setting of the Botanical Garden; Bottega Bernard with the UNMUTE collection created a conceptual and contemporary catwalk in the basement of the Baluardo San Regolo.

Rovi Lucca

LUCCA Fashion Weekend 2024
L'Eight Studio

Saman Loira

The Loggiato Pretorio was the stage for a three-day masterclass curated by Le vanità Profumerie and Armani Beauty. More weaving with the exhibition at the Palazzo Mansi National Museum of the ancient rustic weaving workshop Maria Niemack, who is credited with recovering and enhancing the ancient technique of rustic weaving. On display were ancient nineteenth and twentieth-century looms and tools recovered from the area along with a sampler of the various types of fabrics, trimmings and balloons made with these tools.

credit all images
(c) Lucca 2024 and brands

shumi *Nature Meets Science

.selected
shumi
The Revolution in Functional Mushroom Supplements

written Sarah Arendts

Emerging from Finland's unspoiled wilderness, shumi crafts mushroom extracts that marry ancient botanical wisdom with innovative advancements. The brainchild of friends Hannes Unt and Jens Põld, shumi was born from a shared belief in the transformative power of fungi. Disillusioned by the plethora of inferior products on the market, they set out to elevate the standard for functional mushroom supplements.

Breaking through the wellness landscape, shumi redefines holistic health with a blend of natural purity and scientific precision.

Central to shumi's innovation is their pioneering ultrasonic extraction technology. This technique uses high-frequency sound waves to delicately disassemble the tough cellular structures of mushrooms, liberating vital bioactive compounds in their most potent form. This meticulous process ensures these compounds remain highly bioavailable, with shumi's extracts boasting an impressive 90% bioavailability compared to the average 7-10% found in conventional mushroom powders and capsules.

The magic of shumi lies in its extraordinary range of extracts, each tailored to amplify a different aspect of wellness. The Reishi Extract, often dubbed the 'mushroom of immortality,' is celebrated for its ability to enhance sleep quality and reduce stress, offering a serene escape from the daily grind. Meanwhile, the Chaga Extract stands as a testament to nature's resilience, providing a powerhouse of immune support and unparalleled antioxidant protection.

For those seeking cognitive clarity, the Lion’s Mane Extract is a game-changer. Known for its neuroprotective properties, it sharpens mental focus and promotes neural health, making it a favorite among those looking to enhance their cognitive performance. And let's not forget the Shiitake Extract, a symbol of vitality that supports robust immune health and overall wellness.

Shumi’s commitment to quality extends beyond their innovative extraction techniques. Each product is crafted with precise ultrasonic parameters specific to each mushroom, ensuring maximum efficacy and purity. This dedication to excellence means that shumi’s extracts are effective and a testament to what can be achieved when nature’s wisdom meets modern innovation.

SHUMI
LE MILE selected

all images (c) shumi, 2024

The brand's philosophy is simple yet profound: to elevate wellness by bringing the purest and most effective mushroom extracts to those who seek the best.

For more information, visit shumi's website: www.shumi.bio
follo shumi on Instagram: @shumi.bio

Iris Van Herpen *Fall 2024 Couture

*New Collection
Iris Van Herpen Fall 2024 Couture
Ethereal Avant-Garde

written Amanda Mortenson

In a show that felt more like an immersive art installation, Iris Van Herpen once again shattered the boundaries of fashion with her Fall 2024 Couture Collection. Held during Paris Fashion Week, Van Herpen´s presentation was a blend of avant-garde innovation and ethereal beauty, solidifying her place as a pioneer of the future of fashion.

Iris Van Herpen has once again transcended the traditional boundaries of fashion with her Fall 2024 Couture show. Eschewing the typical runway show, Van Herpen’s presentation, titled “Ethereal Genesis,” transformed models into living sculptures suspended against impasto-covered canvases. The effect was mesmerizing, as the models’ slow, deliberate movements conjured an ethereal dance of life and art.

Set within a gallery-like space, the presentation showcased nine works, each a testament to Van Herpen’s innovative approach to Haute Couture. Five of these were gowns, blending technology and craftsmanship in a way that only Van Herpen can. Models appeared to emerge from the canvases, stabilized by protruding shoes, moving with a grace that mimicked natural phenomena.

The pieces themselves were a marvel of design and execution. One gown featured rhythmic bursts of pearls, while another boasted a transparent, filigreed structure molded by a heat gun into glass-infused organza. The intricate patterns of constructed lace fused seamlessly with floaty silk, creating a dreamlike effect that captivated all the audience. A bronzed dress reimagined the traditional kimono, its intricate pleats and folds adding a sculptural dimension to the ensemble. Simply fantastic!

Van Herpen’s foray into pure artistic expression was evident in the remaining four works, not shown here. These pieces utilized filmy scrims adorned with solid oil paint fragments, airy draped tulle, and hand-pleated silk, creating a dynamic interplay between solid and ethereal elements. Her exploration of the duality of sculpture and dance, static and animated, was further emphasized by a soundscape composed by her partner, Salvador Breed.

The entire presentation was an invitation to linger and absorb the details, a stark contrast to the fleeting moments of a runway show. Van Herpen’s desire to capture time and allow the audience to find their own rhythm with her work was palpable. The experience was transportive, each piece a testament to months, even years, of meticulous work.

IRIS VAN HERPEN
Couture, Fall 2024
during
PARIS FASHION WEEK

In the end, as the models made their exit and the canvases stood empty save for the embedded shoes, Van Herpen’s suspended tulle sculptures remained. These ineffable variations on a self-portrait left an indelible mark, a reminder of the infinite possibilities when fashion and art collide.

all images
(c) IRIS VAN HERPEN, Couture Fall 2024 Show

FREITAG Mono[PA6] Backpack *Sustainable Design & Innovation

.selected
FREITAG
The Future of Backpacks

written Monica de Luna

FREITAG, the Swiss brand known for its dedication to sustainability and innovation, continues to break new ground with its latest release: The Mono[PA6] Backpack.

Their new release is a statement of circular design, high-quality craftsmanship, and a commitment to reducing waste in the fashion industry.

FREITAG
MONO[PA6] BACKPACK

MONO[PA6]
BACKPACK

FREITAG’s vision has always been to create products that are as environmentally friendly as they are stylish. The Mono[PA6] Backpack is the latest embodiment of this philosophy. From the fabric to the zippers and buckles, the backpack is made entirely from polyamide 6 (PA6), a material better known as nylon. This mono-material approach ensures that the backpack can be recycled in its entirety, closing the material loop and making a significant stride toward a circular economy.

After three years of development, the Mono[PA6] Backpack emerges as a functional, durable, and water-repellent companion for everyday urban life. What sets it apart is its two-in-one design: the backpack features a small, detachable musette that can be worn as a crossbody bag or used as an additional outer pocket. This versatile feature makes it perfect for the myriad needs of city dwellers, whether commuting, traveling, or simply navigating the urban jungle.

FREITAG’s commitment to sustainability is evident in all aspects of the new Mono[PA6] Backpack. The use of a single material ensures that every component, from the sturdy zippers to the carrying straps, can be reprocessed into new products. This approach aligns with FREITAG’s design philosophy, which considers the entire lifecycle of a product, ensuring it returns to the cycle rather than ending up as waste. The creation of the Mono[PA6] Backpack was a collaborative effort. FREITAG partnered with a Taiwanese textile manufacturer to develop a new type of water-repellent fabric that is also a mono-material. British designer Jeffrey Siu, known for his work inspired by bike culture, contributed to the backpack’s design, integrating elements that reflect FREITAG’s urban and active lifestyle.

F45 LOIS
Sports Bag 

F35 CHEYENNE / F45 LOIS / F660 JIMMY

FREITAG also offers repair services to ensure the backpack can accompany its owner for as long as possible. When it finally reaches the end of its life, FREITAG takes it back and recycles it completely, transforming it into PA6 granulate that can be used to produce new items.

FREITAG’s Mono[PA6] Backpack is now available at selected stores and online.

discover more www.freitag.ch
content produced by primeart Studios

DIOR Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 Haute Couture Show celebrating Faith Ringgold

.new collection
Threads of Freedom
DIOR AW24-25 Homage to Faith Ringgold

written Monica de Luna

Dior’s Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 Haute Couture Show emerges from the fusion of art and fashion, a poignant tribute to the late Faith Ringgold. Her prolific legacy of activism and creativity continues to inspire. Under Maria Grazia Chiuri’s visionary guidance, Dior’s Creative Director, the collection celebrates Ringgold’s indomitable spirit, seamlessly blending Haute Couture with powerful narratives of female empowerment and artistic rebellion.

Faith Ringgold, born in 1930 in Harlem, New York, passed away in April 2024, leaving behind a legacy that spanned over seven decades. Her multifaceted career as a painter, sculptor, performance artist, writer, and educator was marked by a relentless pursuit of social justice. Ringgold’s work, deeply rooted in African American identity and gender equality, found a resonant echo in Chiuri’s latest collection for Dior.

Read why!

“You can’t sit around and wait for somebody to say who you are. You need to write it and paint it and do it.”

— Faith Ringgold

SCENOGRAPHY © ADRIEN DIRAND
© Faith Ringgold @acagalleries
© Chanakya School of Craft (12)

SCENOGRAPHY © ADRIEN DIRAND
© Faith Ringgold @acagalleries
© Chanakya School of Craft (3)

The show was a dazzling spectacle, merging the elegance of Haute Couture with the raw energy of Ringgold’s artistic legacy. Chiuri’s audacious use of jersey—a material traditionally shunned by couture—defied conventions and redefined luxury. Metallic hues of gold, silver, and white jersey cascaded over models, with ultra-light bustiers sculpting their silhouettes, creating a symphony of classical aesthetics and modern innovation.

The scenography with installations showcasing some of Ringgold’s most iconic series: Freedom Woman Now and Woman Free Yourself. These political posters, born in the early 1970s, were potent reminders of Ringgold’s enduring feminist and activist spirit. Freedom Woman Now, with its interlocking triangles and bold declarations, remains a clarion call for gender equality—a message as powerful today as it was over fifty years ago.

Chiuri’s collection also paid homage to the classical peplum, reimagining this historically significant garment within the context of contemporary women’s political freedom. The intricate draping and pleating of the pieces echoed the fluidity of movement, nodding to athletes from antiquity to the present day who have continually pushed boundaries and shattered barriers.

One standout feature of the show was the reinterpretation of Ringgold’s Windows of the Wedding #1: Woman, a series that celebrated the collaboration between Ringgold and her mother, Madame Willi Posey. Banners inspired by this work highlighted the symbiotic relationship between art and fashion, weaving together personal and collective histories. The thangkas, traditionally used in Tibetan art, were transformed into vibrant backdrops, underscoring the collection’s rich thematic depth. Simply fabulous!

also read DIOR HC SS 2024 Collection Review

The collaboration with the Chanakya ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft brought Ringgold’s Civic Center L.A. Subway Commission mosaics to life, reimagined as stunning embroideries. These life-sized recreations adorned the runway, blurring the lines between art and Haute Couture, celebrating the unifying power of creativity ahead of the 2024 Paris Olympic and Paralympic Games.

Red, Christian Dior’s “color of life,” pulsed through the collection, infusing it with vitality and defiance. A bathrobe embellished with mosaic mirrors stood out, transforming a mundane item into a statement of artistic rebellion. This fusion of couture and sportswear, classicism and rebellion, showcased Chiuri’s knack for crafting a narrative that is reflective and visionary. Chiuri’s homage encapsulated Ringgold’s legacy, underscoring Haute Couture’s power to challenge perceptions and inspire change.

As Ringgold herself said,

“The most important thing, to me, in life is inspiration. I want to inspire others and I want to be inspired.”

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(c) DIOR HC AW24-25

WHITE Show Milano *Redefining Summer Fashion Standards

Milano Fashion Week
WHITE Show Milano
New Summer Fashion Manifesto

written Sarah Arendts

As June's swelter descended on Milan, the WHITE Show completely reimagined the summer fashion game at this year’s Milan Fashion Week.

Throwing typical resort clichés out the window, the event rolled out a dizzying array of ensembles perfect for everything from city adventures to sunset beach lounging.

WHITE Milano 2024
June Edition

This year’s WHITE Show emerged as a beacon of high summer fashion, transcending the usual sandy clichés of sun hats and swimwear. The collections brought versatility to the forefront, perfect for bustling city streets and tranquil beach escapes alike. This broadened vision of summer wear, reflective of a burgeoning synergy between fashion and the growing tourism sector, underscored the season’s evolving narratives.

Guided by Massimiliano Bizzi, the Founder of WHITE, the event navigated a challenging global market with audacity. Bizzi's boldness in launching this new event at such a critical time paid off, reflecting in his confident declaration,

“Launching a new event at this time is undoubtedly a bold move, but it has rewarded us greatly.”

Massimiliano Bizzi, the Founder of WHITE

A standout feature of WHITE was its role as a nexus for emerging markets. Here, underrepresented brands found a vibrant stage to display their creative prowess, enriching the global fashion dialogue and introducing fresh designs and perspectives that have often been sidelined.

The fair’s carefully curated selections boasted unique materials, meticulous craftsmanship, and rich cultural narratives, weaving a rich tapestry of fashion as much about identity as aesthetics. Highlighting this narrative was the “Aurora” collection by Agua by Agua Bendita, a tribute to Colombian artisanship with its exquisite, heritage-rich designs.

The international appeal of the event was palpable, attracting top-tier buyers from luxury strongholds in the Middle East to retail giants in Japan, such as Takashimaya and BayCrew’s, spotlighting WHITE’s critical role in shaping fashion trends across continents.

The event skillfully married fashion with lifestyle. Evenings at the White Resort garden buzzed with performances and gastronomic experiences, crafting an immersive atmosphere that celebrated the aesthetics and ethos of summer. The Lounge space, for instance, showcased the sporty-luxury hybrids of brands like SUMMER GAMES, which resonated with modern, eclectic tastes.

The latest iteration of the WHITE Show raised the bar for summer fashion and exemplified the dynamic evolution of fashion events to meet new consumer demands and market shifts. By interlacing creativity, market insight, and cultural diversity, WHITE has sewn a vibrant new narrative into the global fashion fabric, heralding a promising future for its diverse audience.

credit all images
(c) WHITE MIlano June 2024

LOUIS VUITTON *Spring-Summer 2025 by Pharrell Williams

.new collection
Louis Vuitton SS25 Men´s Collection
Pharrell's Cosmic Symphony

written Amanda Mortenson

Pharrell Williams just set Paris ablaze with Louis Vuitton's Spring-Summer 2025 Men’s Collection.

On the rooftop of La Maison de l’UNESCO, with panoramic views of Paris and a never-ending soundtrack—"Triumphus Cosmos"—vibrating through the air, it felt like stepping into a futuristic musical. The beats of Clipse, John Legend, and Adekunle Gold synced perfectly with a diverse cast of models showcasing a kaleidoscope of global culture.

Pharrell’s vision zooms out to a cosmic level, capturing humanity in all its nuanced glory. This SS25 Men´s collection is a solar reflection of our shared essence, with a palette inspired by skin tones from every corner of the globe. From a distance, the looks might seem monochromatic, but get closer, and you’ll see the intricate craftsmanship, like the complexities of human skin, unfold.
La Maison de l’UNESCO, a symbol of global unity and peace, was the perfect stage for this narrative. Here, the LVERS community—those who embody Louis Vuitton's ethos of discernment, craftsmanship, and an insatiable thirst for travel—gathered. The energy was electric, a melting pot of cultures and ideas, the essence of the Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme.

The show kicked off with a cinematic bang. Air Afrique’s prelude film, set within the UNESCO building, imagined future diplomats as children, absorbing lessons on unity from Simon Njami. This piece wasn’t just a film; it was a statement on intergenerational responsibility and the power of cultural fusion. Air Afrique’s artistic fingerprints were all over the collection, infusing it with Afro-diasporic patterns and graphics that bridged continents and eras.

Fashion-wise, Pharrell played with archetypes of travel. Think tailored jackets and bombers inspired by pilots, double-breasted coats for the suave diplomat, and technical sportswear for the modern explorer. Tracksuits and workwear were refined to perfection, catering to the jet-setter who values both comfort and style.

also read LOUIS VUITTON Cruise 2025 Collection Review

Embroideries, buttons, and fabrics—each element was a detailed marvel. Patterns and Monograms took on skin-like textures, blending seamlessly with materials that mimicked animal hides, adding layers of tactile intrigue.

Accessories were actually focal points. Bijou-encrusted buttons, pearl-lined belt chains, and intricately embroidered details turned every item into a piece of art. The Soft Leather Goods line redefined classics like the Alma and Neverfull, crafting them in luxurious, supple leather with historic Monogram embellishments. These bags, along with the artisanal trunks, screamed luxury and functionality.

Footwear was just as dynamic, with LV Agent boots featuring square toes and thick soles, LV Bowling shoes in elegant nappa leather, and LV Rider cowboy boots in exotic patches. Sunglasses channeled aviation vibes, while accessories like aviator caps and jewelled brooches added a dandy flair.

Pharrell’s debut fragrance, LVERS, was the olfactory cherry on top. Created with Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, it bottled the essence of sunlight with notes of galbanum, cedarwood, sandalwood, ginger, and bergamot—capturing love, vitality, and the spirit of adventure.

watch the show LOUIS VUITTON Spring/Summer 2025 Men´s Collection by Pharell Williams

Pharrell Williams again crafted an experience—a contemporary musical where fashion, music, and global diversity played in perfect harmony. Louis Vuitton's Spring-Summer 2025 Men’s Collection show was a mind-blowing fusion of our shared journey, meticulously crafted and bursting with passion.

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(c) Louis Vuitton Men´s Collection Spring/Summer 2025

Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 *Fashion Showcase

*New Collections
MFW Spring/Summer 2025
In Milan, Form and Function Run Apace

written Chidozie Obasi

This season’s show brought a poised twist on classic, with a sweet, daring vein in clothes that maintain a dynamic rigour.

MOSCHINO

Individuals, characters, humanity. The second Moschino fashion show designed by creative director Adrian Appiolaza is an expression of the uniqueness of people. Each look, like each person, lives individually and has something of its own to express. The collection is an exploration of sorts: exploring the world and the mind, exploring Moschino.

A passage from the urban chaos of the city to discover paradise in the literal sense and personal freedom.Moschino's characters are explorers moving between different spaces, ideas and ideals, escaping life through escapism. There is something positive - something beautiful - in getting lost, in finding places you never knew existed. Traditional tailoring loses its restrictions and boundaries. It is transformed, deconstructed and then reconstructed.

The rules on how to dress according to Franco Moschino, written on a fax machine featured in the Spring-Summer 1995 collection, are shredded to become a new form of "fur for fun" in a white Tyvek fur. Escaping the city, individuals true to their principles wear clothes that speak of the Italian countryside, the jungle wilderness, and finally a serenity that leads to inner peace. Lost, then found again. Symbols, glimpses and memories from Moschino's archives in an ongoing exchange with Franco's ethos. There are the prints of the 1990s reinterpreted, reworked and loved anew. Daisies, soccer balls, gravy stains left by a pizza, and the Italian flag. Twisted trench coats, lingerie dresses, "assemblages" of garments to create new ones. The "Survival Jacket" from the Spring-Summer 1992 collection is reinterpreted first for urban life, then for the great escape.

see more looks from MOSCHINO SS25

HENRIK VIBSKOV

Henrik Vibskov introduced The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance for SS25, a collection that harmonises the elegance of human empathy with the adaptive genius of the animal kingdom. The outing was inspired by the profound theme of hands; the ultimate symbols of assistance, compassion, and adaptability. The collection is also inspired by the natural world's marvels of adaptation and assistance, mirroring the transformative abilities of the octopus, which can morph its shape and colour to blend seamlessly into its surroundings. Their whole body is a large neural network that creates a web of understanding and feeling, and its many limbs could lend you many hands at the same time.

Let’s embrace the mutability, re-examine our past behaviours and adapt to create actionable goals to improve the future. The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance features fluid silhouettes, morphed patterns, and versatile garments that embody the themes. By dissecting the classic check; a jacquard woven chequered fabric has morphed with ocean motifs, and in a chequered knit the pattern dissolves completely. Hands are represented in prints - little fingers supporting you, chopped factory fingers, analogue gloves. Peace offering messages are hidden in the corners. Grey outline fingers is an exclusively developed textile, with a smock-like crinkle that resembles intertwined fingers, making use of a 30-year-old archive materials from Dutel.

Henrik Vibskov
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) HENRIK VIBSKOV

FENDI

Silvia Venturini Fendi, Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear, considers FENDI as a travelling time capsule mirroring decades and destinations, with Italian craftsmanship as its forever North star. The Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is an homage to the universal – sublimating House codes that predate the first men’s silhouette revealed at FENDI in 1990. Today, that wardrobe’s pillars become sartorial puzzle pieces, activating soft expressions of contemporary masculinity through the lens of modern luxury. Once emblematic of an international elite, the notion of uniforms for work and play are deconstructed and dreamed anew in powdery shades: a mineral palette of sherbet and mist, ivory, caramel and buttermilk mingle with soft blues and natural indigo, black and forest green. Somewhere between sports and ceremony, the idea of the FENDI Club emerges – its crest1 proudly emblazoned like a fantasy coat-of-arms on breast pocket and button.

From head to toe, the collection revels in the virtuosity of the Selleria stitch, a technique passed to the Fendi family by Roman master saddlers in 1925. Scaled up and down, it is re-interpreted as a broken pinstripe suiting jacquard and threaded as a stripe or tonal FF logo through linen and plush textures, applied as a surface on Japanese boro denim, or reduced to a minimalist frame on crisp wool outerwear and leathergoods.

see more looks from FENDI SS25

FENDI
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) FENDI

DSQUARED2

For Spring/Summer 2025, twin creative masterminds Dean and Dan Caten turn up the heat while bringing a renewed sense of focus to their vision of maximal multiplicity for Dsquared2. The brand hones in on a sense of duality - between elegance and edge, softness and strength - but in doing so, creates one of their most unexpected, exciting, and undeniably sexy fashion mashups yet. It is a liberated community of artists, athletes, and aesthetes, an underground milieu that is poetry salon, wrestling league, and kink scene all in one.
As always, the collection’s spirit of freeing multiplicity has its basis in Dean and Dan’s signature penchant for synthesising innovative material treatments and imaginative details with cross-genre references to fringe fashion subcultures. For Spring/Summer 2025, this practice takes shape as a particularly focused intersection of elegance and edge.

Sheer chiffons cascade poetically around the body, but reveal skin-tight bondage harnesses or barely-there bralettes beneath. Denim peels away into sculptural latex. Asymmetrical sheer jersey tanks are treated with laminating techniques, balancing brutalist geometry and soft bodily harmony. Laces coil up legs, holding outer garments together but exposing the skin beneath. Broad-shouldered suits with voluminous pleated pants reference 80s workday ensembles, while leather biker jackets and thick-soled studded creepers suggest that same stylish character’s nocturnal alter ego.
The colour palette, too, embodies a spirit of poetic softness anchored by the strength of desire.

DSQUARED2
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) DSQUARED2

see more looks from DSQUARED2 SS25

MSGM

Lines and horizons that connect archipelagos, Mediterranean perspectives of new routes, both real and imaginary. Painted, printed, woven, they bind summer memories, loves on the sand, afternoon siestas, sponge-like dreams. Turquoise, straw yellow, black, along with classic cream, red, and blue, but also sharp and acidic stripes, sharpen forms and movements. We dress and dream in a nautical style. Colours dripping, hues chasing each other, vibrating with music. Lobster and sideral blue shine on printed linens, colourful zippers become borders of freedom of forms.

Faded, tie-dye dissolves winter melancholies. Dolphins, crabs, and mermaids are games on the sand, stencils or carefree paintings in the warm summer afternoons of our childhood, appearing and disappearing on the textures. We play with clichés, knots become dresses, the sun becomes macramé in a new silhouette. Sailors in love, hinted at, desired, through light gestures and dissolving watercolours by Luke Edward Hall. Origami hats like fragile memories, materialise in jacquards and prints in blue and red. Umbrellas and deckchairs, of a sea that becomes a city, whose stripes transform into substantial waves, details, inlays in ajour memories.

MSGM
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) MSGM

MAGLIANO

This collection is dedicated to those tender and fleeting memories that catch up to us like unexpected storms. Memory turns archeological: reminiscences become fossil traces, analysed simply for what they are. Silhouettes are finally essential, at times gaunt, like in the memories of the 2000s. White, black and the greys in between. Classics are modular thanks to folk or beach-like additions. In the free beach, of Magliano coats are integrated by towels, trousers are swimwear, evening wear. Clothes assume crazy functions, or dysfunctions, as they brush against fantasy. The microscopic is now magnified: creating structure and decorative patterns. The knot, the intersection, the clasp of two allergic things but persistent in coming together.

The extremities of the clothes rattle and muddle: here lies the intrinsic nature of the project that, as usual, prefers the interwoven complexity of the reverse to the clear drawing of the straightforward. Childhood, a puzzle of unlimited limits, is evoked through the cross-stitch. Interpreted like a political medium, it composes strings of google searches, from poetry to porn, fragments of notable identities. Also the Cormio/Magliano embroidered sweaters hold the same weight, everything but naïve, exemplifying the symbol of an unconditional alliance between colleagues. The hero of the season is Pinocchio, a superlative symbol of trans-formation.

MAGLIANO
Spring/Summer 2025
(c) MAGLIANO

Marine Serre SS25 at Pitti Uomo

*New Collection
Marine Serre SS25
A Celebration of Grace and Love

written Chidozie Obasi

Marine Serre embarked on a new journey, as the guest designer of Pitti Uomo 106, bringing the runway and the guests outside of Paris for the first time to Florence, Italy.

A passport cover with the signature airbrushed moon pattern was crafted by the renowned local atelier Cuoio di Toscana. By masking the nationalities of the guests with the invitation, the Maison intends to embrace the idea of “Citizens of the World”, leading to the title of the Show. This collection featured both menswear and womenswear showcasing sartorial luxury affair combined with glamorous femininity and the golden age of Italian cinema, blending craftsmanship and Haute Couture sophistication with a tribute to local savoir-faire. The show was set in the Villa di Maiano, a historical estate built in the 15th century.

This unique venue underscores the collection’s splendour and timeless elegance. Located five kilometres from the centre of Florence, it seems to exist in a peaceful world of its own, immersed in the lush green of the hills overlooking the city.

At sunset, the audience is welcomed by the sound of a live orchestral band, offering a ceremonial atmosphere to the set. The opening piece of the show epitomises the quintessence of the brand, transcending temporal and cultural boundaries to set the tone for the inaugural ensemble: an elevated interpretation of glamour and grace. A dramatic couture crinoline, paired with an artfully crafted top adorned with vintage jewellery, makes a striking statement. Following are two impeccably tailored black men’s suits: a nod to Italian elegance.

A majestic cocktail dress, featuring a contrasting lilac jersey hood drapery and tan mesh patchwork, embodies the signature Marine Serre hybridization approach. Finally, the introductory section culminates with purple glossy leather silhouettes, seamlessly transitioning into the second chapter of the show. Heavily inspired by the golden age of crime fiction in cinema, the following looks offer a fierce and bold reinterpretation of the archetypes. Dominated by a striking black and red palette, the collection features a dynamic mix of sartorial silhouettes and sensuous airbrushed leather, evocative of the late seventies allure. This aesthetic is seamlessly blended with post-industrial attitudes.

MARINE SERRE
SS 2025 Runway
during
PITTI UOMO

A camel version of the airbrushed leather total look heralds a new chapter in this journey through vibrant daily silhouettes, reviving hallmark materials of the brand: upcycled tartan scarves and cotton tote bags, signature silk scarves ingeniously twisted and encased in mesh fabric. Regenerated denim is also reimagined, traversing to the Far West with leather embellishments and culminating in an exquisite couture dress. New regenerated materials also make their debut like this cotton padded comfort poplin pieces and innovative designs crafted from upcycled tennis bags.

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(c) MARINE SERRE during PITTI UOMO 2024

Paul Smith SS25 PITTI 2024

*New Collection
Paul Smith SS 2025
The shifting harmonies of Britishness

written Chidozie Obasi

In a big shift, Paul Smith returned to Pitti Uomo in Florence to debut its Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Presented by Sir Paul himself, he spoke to audiences by talking through the ‘60s-inspired designs.

Nestled in the sumptuous settings of Villa Favard, a gorgeously ornate 19th century compound in the heart of Florence, it was transformed into Bar Paul: a tribute to the Italian cafes that Paul frequented in Soho in the 1960s. Typically open all night, these cafes were a place for people to go after the likes of the Scene Club, Flamingo Club, and Whiskey-A-Go-Go had closed for the evening. Naturally, they drew a bohemian crowd of musicians, artists, and designers who helped to make Soho the epicenter of the creative world at that moment in time. The presentation space will be set up with cafe tables complete with ‘Bar Paul’ branded items such as napkins, coffee cups, sugar packets, and match boxes, to evoke those after-hours meetups of Soho’s artistic circle.

The collection itself expanded upon this theme, with a pleasingly louche and tactile approach to tailoring. Ties are worn loosely knotted, paired with denim chore jackets and unstructured blazers in cotton canvas – a look which suggests an artist heading to dinner straight from a day’s painting in the studio. Suits are cut from classic houndstooth and Prince of Wales fabrics, bringing to mind London in the ‘60s, while outerwear uses bold statement fabrics to eye-catching effect. One collection highlight – an oversized trench coat – is constructed from a custom Italian cloth with an exploded pastel check design, based on the Paul Smith Signature Stripe.

Paul Smith
Spring/Summer 2025

see more looks

Soho stalwarts Francis Bacon and Lucien Freud provide key inspiration, and this painterly influence is reflected back into the presentation space with art materials provided by Winsor & Newton. Seating throughout the venue was provided by Artek, in the form of their iconic Stool 60.

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SS 2025 during PITTI 2024 (c) Paul Smith